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Inexpensive Mopar 8 3/4 suregrips all over ebay???

Well, I've got a 500hp engine and 10" slicks...... but I think I'll stick with my locker, thanks.
it's all fun and games until flying parts maim somebody. It would only prove what we already suspect, but flying parts make me laugh sometimes.
 
U can do the same as Dr Diff and take it apart and check everything. If he takes it apart to check it over all he can do is check clearances and make sure the clutches are in the right order. I’m sure he doesn’t change any parts as where would he get them from? Maybe these aren’t even the ones he sells. Kim
I believe he sells clutch plate kits to renew original clutch suregrips. Maybe he uses better clutches than the Chinese, and better bolts. Still, kinda hard to correct any machining mistakes, or crappy metalurgy.
 
I'll stick with Cass for all my rear diff needs.
 
But at least Cass will stand behind what he sells.
 
After the shipping costs and ebay's 13.5% fee there'd be nothing left over if you didn't drop ship, what a pos that must be.
That Fee is on Shipping and Tax Too ! Way too much Chinese **** and Counterfeit **** on E bay.
 
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I see all kinds of opinions, but they are just guesses. Not one response from anyone that has bought/used one. A friend and I each bought one. Haven't used either one yet, but visually they look OK. Mine will be replacing a spool with 3.91 gears, that will be going in a street driver modified slant six, in an "A" body. Not like I will be making 600 hp (maybe 200-225 hp). So figured I would take a chance. Don't want a spool on the street. Hopefully will have it done and in the car by early spring.
 
I see all kinds of opinions, but they are just guesses. Not one response from anyone that has bought/used one. A friend and I each bought one. Haven't used either one yet, but visually they look OK. Mine will be replacing a spool with 3.91 gears, that will be going in a street driver modified slant six, in an "A" body. Not like I will be making 600 hp (maybe 200-225 hp). So figured I would take a chance. Don't want a spool on the street. Hopefully will have it done and in the car by early spring.
I think your situation is ideal for this experiment. Light body, minimal low-end torque. If it's any good at all it should be fine in a plenty strong rear , for a slant.
 
If I bought one change the case bolts and check ring gear surface run out.
I bought and did that, installed bearings and checked the surface, it was of 1/10 mm, did the same on OE and those where 1/100 mm, so need to be in a lathe before I can use it.
 
I bought and did that, installed bearings and checked the surface, it was of 1/10 mm, did the same on OE and those where 1/100 mm, so need to be in a lathe before I can use it.
So, that's. 004 runout, verses .0004.
I might could live with one or two thou runout, but not four.
 
So, that's. 004 runout, verses .0004.
I might could live with one or two thou runout, but not four.
The question is cost of labor to true it up. Looked in service manual and allowable runout is .005 !! Don't think I'd run that but.........
 
I did a Dana 60 with a diff from China....the runout was good but one of the clearance slots for a bearing puller was messed up and had to mill it. Looked like the mold sand caved in and instead of having a nice pocket, it was sloped and there was no way to get the finger of the puller under the bearing. Another issue was the radius on both bearing fits was much larger than a factory unit and the standard size shims didn't fit. Found that out the hard way. There are larger ID size shims available but using those is a bit of a pain because now they are too loose fitting. Had to use a thin smear of grease to keep them centered before installing the bearings.
 
The question is cost of labor to true it up. Looked in service manual and allowable runout is .005 !! Don't think I'd run that but.........
And, that assumes the lathe and the operator are good enough to correct it, without taking too much meat.
I was good enough.... but my ancient colchester wasn't!
 
And, that assumes the lathe and the operator are good enough to correct it, without taking too much meat.
I was good enough.... but my ancient colchester wasn't!
Interrupted pass isn't always easy either......
 
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