Installing a new flat tappet cam?

[beanhead]

Please consider these checklist items first.
I've posted this list in previous threads, but have just heard of another (chebby lol) friend having a FT cam go flat 10 minutes into run-in....it never ends!
It sucks, but gone are the days of "just stab it and go" cam installs....
I haven't had a failure ever using this list, not that it guarantees success, but let's do all we can to increase our chances.
Yes there ARE poor-quality parts being foisted on us nowadays, but you may catch a majority of problems before ruining an engine and having to start over.
If anyone has advice to add to this, please do! Thanks.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

Yep, working on installing a Lunati ft. I inspected the heck out of everything. The cam and lifters didn’t look bad. Engine looked good. Hopefully I can praise the ft cam and not be another statistic.

 

[Kern Dog]

Thanks, Lloyd. Posting stuff like this BEFORE a failure is a considerate gesture on your part.
I am coming to the belief that a major part in the success/failure is the crown on the bottoms of the lifters. That crown AND the lobe taper work together to promote lifter rotation. When the lifters simply slide up and down, the risk of failure seems to go way UP.
I've had 4 cams go flat. Two Comp Cams and two Mopar Performance. One mechanical, three were hydraulic.
There are shops that will resurface the lifters to get that needed crown. When I run another flat tappet cam, I will look at using this service for the added insurance.

Schneider Racing Cams

 

[fratzog lover]

That is a great list judging from the myriad of cam installation threads on here. It will doubtless help many engines to not be ruined on break in.

 

[1967coronet]

Good thread Lloyd, to echo Greg yes there are a lot of crap lifters being sold.
I still think many break in problems come from spring pressure and install height, coil bind ect.
Mabey just me but it seems spring pressures have went up as lifter and cam quality have went down.
As kids in the 70s we got away with cam installs ( stab and go ) cause who the hell could afford new springs ?

 

[Rebelrouser]

I watched a YouTube video the other day and the guy did something that makes sense to me. installed the cam shaft, installed lubed up lifters with just thin oil, marked the lifters with a magic marker and rotated the engine, if the lifters spun in the bores while rotating the engine, lubed with thin oil, it was ready to install the break-in lube and finish assembly. If the lifters did not rotate, junk, send them and the cam back.

 

[Kern Dog]

Damn it, Rebel....there you GO, making SENSE again!

 

[khryslerkid]

When I did my last build the spring recommendation for the cam was too much. I did my homework and found a lighter spring. I also marked each lifter and rotated the crank by hand to watch for their rotation. After break-in I removed the valve covers and watched each one for rotation again.

I agree with 1967coronet on excessive spring pressures in a lot of cases when breaking in a cam.

 

[Lefty71]

6a). Broach the lifter bores with a broaching tool. I would say this is most important if you are'nt working with a block that YOU know the history, and there's any chance its been overheated or taken other damage, spun bearings, busted rod, etc. It's a good idea to do it anyway. Goodson makes the tool you need.

LBB-CR1 | .906

 

[BSB67]

Please consider these checklist items first.
I've posted this list in previous threads, but have just heard of another (chebby lol) friend having a FT cam go flat 10 minutes into run-in....it never ends!
It sucks, but gone are the days of "just stab it and go" cam installs....
I haven't had a failure ever using this list, not that it guarantees success, but let's do all we can to increase our chances.
Yes there ARE poor-quality parts being foisted on us nowadays, but you may catch a majority of problems before ruining an engine and having to start over.
If anyone has advice to add to this, please do! Thanks.
View attachment 1501146

You missed number 1. Buy a roller cam

 

[pnora]

There is a lot more to having a successful break in. That motor needs to start right away. That means getting the timing right, fuel in the carb, hot spark, good cranking, fully charged battery, all fluids in the motor and cooling system. If you fail on the start you have a high possibility of failure. That motor needs to light off immediately. A flooding condition, no spark, and cranking it till the cows come home will ensure the failure.

 

[beanhead]

6a). Broach the lifter bores with a broaching tool. I would say this is most important if you are'nt working with a block that YOU know the history, and there's any chance its been overheated or taken other damage, spun bearings, busted rod, etc. It's a good idea to do it anyway. Goodson makes the tool you need.

LBB-CR1 | .906

Thanks Lefty! That's a good idea too.

There is a lot more to having a successful break in. That motor needs to start right away. That means getting the timing right, fuel in the carb, hot spark, good cranking, fully charged battery, all fluids in the motor and cooling system. If you fail on the start you have a high possibility of failure. That motor needs to light off immediately. A flooding condition, no spark, and cranking it till the cows come home will ensure the failure.

Agreed...this is more just a list of block/cam/lifter checks that many times aren't done.

You missed number 1. Buy a roller cam

 

[moparedtn]

There is a lot more to having a successful break in. That motor needs to start right away. That means getting the timing right, fuel in the carb, hot spark, good cranking, fully charged battery, all fluids in the motor and cooling system. If you fail on the start you have a high possibility of failure. That motor needs to light off immediately. A flooding condition, no spark, and cranking it till the cows come home will ensure the failure.

That's on the OP's list...

 

[pnora]

That's on the OP's list...

Really.

 

[moparedtn]

Really.

 

[pnora]

View attachment 1501324

I added a bit more on my post. Thank you for your criticism.

 

[moparedtn]

I added a bit more on my post. Thank you for your criticism.

Not criticizing - merely pointing out what it appeared you had missed.
Your post of course has lots of helpful stuff in it as well.

 

[Geoff 2]

You can lay a lifter body across the base of another lifter.....& see the crown [ radius ].
What you cannot see is if the radius is centered &/or uniform. You also cannot see or feel the hardness of the lifter.
So for the umpteenth time, if you do NOT want to wipe the cam, get some 25+ yr old lifters & get them re-faced.