Installing Classic Auto Air in a '70 Charger

[Kern Dog]

I took a 48" #6 line and formed it to fit from the drier, over the core support and toward the middle.

I had a pair of 30" lines so I put 2 90 degree bends in it and slipped it on.

If the line was 36", I could have connected the two lines together.

Now I have to decide if I should use a short section of rubber hose with the fittings or just call Summit for another section of hard line. I'm leaning toward the latter since it would look cleaner and eliminate one connection.

 

[Kern Dog]

I cut the hoses and set them where they will likely stay. The discharge hose on the drivers side was routed to clear the valve cover. I have a solid lifter cam and I didn't want to deal with a hose over the valve cover area if/when I need to lash the valves.

The other side seems like it lays in a decent position.

Let me know what you think. I was going for a less cluttered look than stock and even less than the way that this kit had detailed.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Looks like a very well thought out solution... Funny how when you know the valve covers have to come off a little adjustment makes it much easier.. OE’s won’t waste ten cents worth of hose to make something like that happen...

I see a 36” line in your future...

 

[Kern Dog]

Yeah...I JUST ordered the 36" line. If I get it tomorrow or Saturday, I'll get it fitted and post a picture. At least now I can do my crimping of the hose fittings and return the crimping tool to the guy that was kind enough to loan it out. THAT is a rare thing nowadays.

 

[Kern Dog]

Someone on DodgeCharger.com mentioned a problem with their fan being too close to the compressor.
W H A T ???
I think that CoronetDarter did too.
Not a problem though:

 

[bearman]

Kd, is there a reason you didn't mount the dryer up by the condenser. Just curious

 

[Kern Dog]

It is mounted where the instructions show it to be. There is a short line from the firewall to the drier that they call the "Switch Port Line". I have seen them mounted other places though. Where did the factory put them?

I crimped the lines today but I don't think that they crimped properly. If they hold vacuum, I'll live with the less than perfect appearance. They didn't crimp evenly.

 

[bearman]

Not sure just thinking out loud. That would be better up front away from heat and gives you more room in the engine bay. Just a thought. Your doing a great job and r/t 1 sure knows his stuff. That's what makes this forum great.

 

[bearman]

Another question do you have a pressure switch in the back of the compressor or is your high and low cut somewhere else.

 

[Kern Dog]

The pressure switch is on that short line between the firewall and the drier. I just have not screwed it in place yet.
You can see it to the right of the drier, it has a red cap on it.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

The dryer sends liquid to the expansion valve, keeping the line short helps keeping the refrigerant in a liquid state..

The big temperature change occurs when the refrigerant changes state from liquid to gas... So naturally you want that change of state to happen when the refrigerant hits the evaporator not in the engine compartment...

 

[bearman]

I agree with you r/t that's why I was asking in alot of cases specially old street rods I see the dryer up under dash. That way it's hidden or up by the condenser away from engine heat. We all know how cool the engine bays are in the b bodies. Just a thought and is your switch for high pressure cut out or low pressure maybe it has both and is it adjustable. Trying to make notes for the future. Thanks for any help on this I don't want to run over kd thread just wondering.

 

[Dennis H]

Pictures of a 10 year old install. No leaks or charges required. Not pretty, but cold. First picture, the controls are using the old cables. In order to prevent any hot water drifting in, you need to put a little nudge on the valve.

 

[HawkRod]

I tried to hide my A/C as much as possible, so I mounted the dryer behind the grill. I guess my line isn't short between the dryer and expansion valve as R/T stated, but mine has worked great for 4 years - hope it keeps going!

Dryer Mounting on my 70 Road Runnner:
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...-the-restoration.65096/page-24#post-910196423

Kern: At this point it is probably easiest to keep your dryer where it is. You are trying to do a clean installation, not hide it, so I think it looks just fine as is!

Oh, and be sure your electrical system is up to snuff as this draws a good amount of current. I had a connector heat up due to a bad connector at my fuse panel.

Keep rocking, you are almost there!

Hawk

 

[Kern Dog]

Thanks, Hawk!
The 36" line arrived today.

It fit in there nicely. The line is secured with a loop retainer on the hood latch support. The retainer on the top of the firewall will be secured once I replace the drier. I need the line loose to allow for some movement.
I had to replace the fuel line because the switch from NON A/C to A/C meant the alternator now blocked the original route at the lower end. I used aluminum tubing, 3/8". The inline filter is now down behind the alternator so that I have room to fit through this maze of heater hoses, A/C lines and spark plug wires.

 

[CoronetDarter]

You're install has given me some second thoughts to my own. My ac is installed and mocked up but not functional. I like the hardline running down the passenger side vs the hose that comes with the kit.
Did you get the lines from Summit?

 

[Kern Dog]

Did you get the lines from Summit?

Yes, I did. One 48" and one 36" line. The 36" line needs to have a female fitting on both ends.
To me, this looks cleaner than the way that they called for in the kit. 1 Wild R/T suggested this reroute. I has planned on using a combination of hard lines and crimped hose fittings but this setup has less risk of leaks and to me, looks less cluttered.

 

[bearman]

Kd, what type of expansion valve does the kit supply.

 

[Kern Dog]

I don't know. It was already installed on the evaporator unit.

 

[rrTor-Red]

KD, that's looking good!