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Installing new shoes on 67 11” police brakes - adjusters

Well I think I put both of mine on backwards! I dont think it would make a difference, I would just have to turn the adjuster a different direction.
 
It does kind of make you wonder why Chrysler didn’t put the 11x3 brakes on the rear of GTXs, R/Ts, Roadrunners, Hemis, etc. the only thing that comes to mind is that they are all pretty front heavy and maybe there was a concern about premature lockup. Taxis, and station wagons that often carried passengers or had more rear weight bias might not have had this concern. But seems a bit of a stretch if they sometimes put them on police packages?
 
Hi Jerry. I tried cleaning mine up but couldn’t find any markings. They are a little rusty on the surface but work fine. I did adjust my front drums a few months ago and the method of adjustment went correctly. Pretty sure when I put new linings on years ago, I did one wheel at a time and kept the hardware with the particular wheel. I’m less certain about the rear but guess I’ll figure it out for sure when I get there. Just seems odd the star adjuster would be towards the rear on the front wheels, but towards the front on the rear wheels per that picture. All my backing plates have 2 adjustment slots so they are no help.
Adjusters operate off the rear shoe if the memory is correct.
 
It does kind of make you wonder why Chrysler didn’t put the 11x3 brakes on the rear of GTXs, R/Ts, Roadrunners, Hemis, etc. the only thing that comes to mind is that they are all pretty front heavy and maybe there was a concern about premature lockup. Taxis, and station wagons that often carried passengers or had more rear weight bias might not have had this concern. But seems a bit of a stretch if they sometimes put them on police packages?
I have a Charger 68 housing with 11 x 3 rear brakes.
 
Why would the location be different? I have both manual and self adjusting. They are all in the same place.

I may not understand your comment then. The manual adjusters (HD police brakes) operate (spread or close) both F&R shoes equally by manual adjustment of the star through the backing plate.

Automatic adjusters (which I have none of) similarly spin the adjusters to spread both shoes. The adjuster though works off of the secondary (rear) shoe when backing - which is what I understood your comment to refer to. You can also manually adjust the brakes through the backing plate. But on HD police manual brakes, none of that self adjuster stuff is in there and the rear shoe doesn’t adjust anything when backing.
 
Putting new shoes on a 67 GTX that I put shoes on 20+ years ago. Wanting to make sure I have the adjusters mounted correctly and didn’t screw it up 20 years ago.

I believe the adjusters on the front end have the star adjuster towards the rear as this photo I found on the Internet shows and per my existing set up.

View attachment 1830239

But, I notice that the rear example in this photo shows the star adjuster towards the front on the left rear brake. I haven’t pulled my rear drums yet. Is that correct? Both sides?

Neither my 66 or 67 FSM have a dang thing in them on the police brakes.

The automatic, or self, adjusters on Chrysler vehicles started in 1963 with the "Servo-Contact" brake system. Because the automatic adjusters were used on all regular passenger cars, the service procedure and certain details for manual adjusters were not necessarily in the regular service manuals. Because of the possibility of over adjustment, especially when performing forward to reverse maneuvers with hot drums, manual adjusters were used on police and other fleet vehicles.
Screenshot 2025-04-06 7.01.42 PM.png

The manual adjuster adjusting screw/pivot nut/socket, or "star wheel", is different from that on the automatic adjusters, and the same manual adjuster is used on all four wheels on both sides of the vehicle.
Screenshot 2025-04-06 4.49.49 PM.png

Parts catalogs also list the manual adjusters as the same.

Although not in the regular car manuals, Sweptline trucks continued to use the manual adjusters until the new body style in 1972. The Sweptline manuals can be used for the manual adjustment service operations and to determine placement of the adjusting screw/pivot nut/socket. According to the manual, the pivot nut is placed on the right hand shoe (facing), which matches with the pictured "Fig. 3". Although it could be placed in either direction, it is specified for manufacturing, parts, and service instruction consistency.
PXL_20250406_223845883.MP.jpg

PXL_20250406_223902586.jpg


More general description of the manually adjusted Bendix style fixed anchor system which is the same as Chrysler's Servo-contact, see the following images:
PXL_20250406_200954421.jpg

PXL_20250406_201036071.MP.jpg

PXL_20250406_200903752.jpg
 
I may not understand your comment then. The manual adjusters (HD police brakes) operate (spread or close) both F&R shoes equally by manual adjustment of the star through the backing plate.

Automatic adjusters (which I have none of) similarly spin the adjusters to spread both shoes. The adjuster though works off of the secondary (rear) shoe when backing - which is what I understood your comment to refer to. You can also manually adjust the brakes through the backing plate. But on HD police manual brakes, none of that self adjuster stuff is in there and the rear shoe doesn’t adjust anything when backing.
Correct.
 
VAANTH, beautiful find, thanks. My only addition is that I personally don’t back off adjusters after getting the drag.(little higher pedal)
 
I don’t back off as many clicks as the FSM (11-12 clicks from memory) says but I noticed in the info above that Vaanth posted that it recommended 7-9 clicks. But now that I think about it that 11-12 clicks is for the finer tooth wheel for automatic adjusters (24-30 teeth) whereas the manual adjusters just have 12 teeth. So even the 8-9 clicks I’ve been using is a little too much backing off.

You guys have any suggestions for the rear? With sure-grip and 80-140 lube it’s tough doing a fine adjustment. I’ve been tightening one side until it takes pretty good effort to rotate the drum forward then go to the other side and tighten it until it takes even a little more effort to rotate the drum, and then back both off an equal number of clicks. About all I can think of.
 
Lol, turn off radio/tv, no noise. When you hear dragging noise, go to other side and repeat.
 
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