Would be hard to red light on .4 pro tree.
.288 light ? Bet they were hollaring at u to leave ! LOLI did get to the friday night race, which was run on a .500 tree ... didn't do well there either. lol
His .023 to my .288 light, he lifted about 1,000', I drove around and lifted. I was first to finish by .1634 and ran 11.359 on the 11.50 index. The air was much better during eliminations, which threw my throttle stop setting off.
What a messed up run.lol
They did have a Hottie starting races with an arm drop at the first of the year. There was too much bitching and bickering about guys jumping, so they switched to Instant Green.Tell the track if they want to fill the stands and the pits,,Get them a Hottie out there and do FLAG starts. Gives you a bit of a advantage as you can see movement when the flag starts to drop.Now That's if you can keep your EYES OFF the Hottie !!!
How we're your lights?I raced all last weekend with a 400 Pro tree. With my trans brake. And yes, you have to be ready to pop that button. Once both cars are pre-staged the starter turns the system over to the auto start computer. The computer then takes over when both cars are fully staged and determines by random when the tree starts. The starter guy down on the track has nothing to do with it.
I've deep staged with my footbrake car on a .400 with some success. The trick is to practice Pro and Full tree until your reaction time (taking into account tree difference .400-.500) is the same. Then adjust the car. When I use a practice tree the rollout is set the same for both Full/Pro and both set on .500. It'll take you a lot of practice to run both with-in .010 of each other. It will come with practice as will your consistency. You should be able to keep 80% or better of your R/T with-in less than .01 from high to low and from Pro to Full.I may have to try deep staging.