What’s your problem you can’t read. Shins set the preload on bearings, the nut streatches the pinion ABOVE THE YOKE. Neither has any thing to do with pattern. I when to school on this **** and have done hundreds of setups so take a hike!
Tightening the yoke nut (with the original crush sleeve) will "pull" the pinion shaft forward.
Now with a crush sleeve eliminator kit you pre-set the spacing between the 2 bearings, but tightening the nut will still apply a forward load on the pinion shaft, which still can affect the pattern by how tight you go on it.
The distance between the 2 bearings and races requires to be set, which depends on the housing tolerances which probably all are different as machining tolerances were not as they are now days.
Once tightening the nut, the drive shaft yoke is pushed against the outboard bearing, which, once bottomed out, will start to pull pinion shaft and the inboard bearing against its race and locking the assembly in place.
The crush sleeve original intention is to have some grieve when installing by its crushing capability while maintaining pre-load.
The eliminator kit is there to set it "perfect" but requires to be measured properly to get it right and is reusable.
When doing this i would get another 1-2 spare crush sleeves and after the first attempt with no good pattern you will be able to redo it with knowing how much it needs and in what direction.
That nut will not stretch the pinion shaft thread section, it is just to lock the 2 bearings (which are facing each other) in place, not tightened properly will result in your pinion shaft start floating and the bearings will fail in the end.