TRAMO
Well-Known Member
what would cause the intstument lights to pulsate .head lights dont on 67 b body
instrument panel lights pulsating
- Thread starter TRAMO
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67 coronet
Well-Known Member
try fiddling with the reostat on the headlight switch.
TRAMO
Well-Known Member
what i mean is the head lights work fine and dont pulsate but the instrument lights do pulsate.they continuously get brighter and dimmer at all rpm
A383Wing
Well-Known Member
bet you got a "points" style voltage regulator for the charging system...find the electronic one and replace it..yer lights will stop flickering....or change over to the 70 & newer alternator & flat regulator
Bryan
Bryan
67 coronet
Well-Known Member
i understood what you said.if the only thing on the car that is flickering is the dash lights you prob have a bad contact point inside the dimmer control of the dash lights.that is located inside the headlight switch.rotate the knob and see if it goes away.
ilm65
Well-Known Member
Sounds like your Instrument Voltage Regulator is failing--also causes gas and temp gauges to fluctuate--easily changed out. Most NAPA stores have replacements for the classics.
Meep-Meep
дворянин
The original voltage regulator (for charging system) can cause the lights to flicker, but that would be the headlights too. I'm with 67. Roll the dimmer a few times to land the movable contact in a different place.
A383Wing
Well-Known Member
that regulator only supply's 5v to the gauges, it has nothing to do with the dash lights...completely different circuits.
You can replace the headlight switch, available from NAPA for under $20, but I don't think it's gonna cure yer problem. I bet yer headlights are also flickering, but you just don't see it as well
Bryan
TRAMO
Well-Known Member
upon further inspection A383 your right all lights are flickering.when i purchased the car in march the alternator was not charging.i installed a new 1972 alternator and regulator,still not charging.i went to a auto electric shop and they said there was a break between alternator and positive battery.they told me to run a 10 wire from alt to pos battery and presto battery shows 14.5 volts coming in .but all lights pulsate/flicker.any ideas?
Last edited:
ArtH
Well-Known Member
I just went through this with my 77 Cordoba. After replacing the voltage regulator and the alternator (it needed to be replaced anyway due to the old one had bad bearings etc) I was getting pulsating lights and crazy voltage bounce at the battery. It would jump from 14.5 to 15.3 volts which just a bit too high. I had added a tachometer and when I retraced my steps, I found a wire that was under the dash on the right side behind the glove box. It was orange and had a male connector that when into a three outlet female connector. The other two wires, also orange, powered the door panel light and glove box light separately. This connector is always hot as those lights come on whenever you open the door or the glove box. The wire in question was bared on one end and my guess is it was rubbing up against something which I'm surprised didn't cause a dead short. I removed it from the connector completely I think this was a feed for the ashtray light. I don't smoke. I then started up the car, the ammeter showed a nice charge with needle stable and not bouncing around, the voltage at the battery was 14.2 to 14.3 volts relatively steady and varying only 1/10th of a volt and no pulsating lights. I think a previous owner had a different radio set up and possible used that wire for some reason or other and when he sold the car, he stripped his radio out putting the OEM back in the slot but didn't wire anything. The radio now works, and my pulsating light and voltage problem is solved.
If you have done anything like this, go back and check your work. Voltage regulators for these cars are fairly cheap and it's advisable, or so I've been told when changing the alternator to change the VR. MAKE SURE that you do not reverse the blue and green wires to the VR, I am told you will fry if you do. The blue wire should go to the pin in the high part of the connector just as A383Wing has posted in the schmatic. It's easy to reverse these if you use a replacement connector...do you hear the voice of experience here? Yeah, I did it.
If you have done anything like this, go back and check your work. Voltage regulators for these cars are fairly cheap and it's advisable, or so I've been told when changing the alternator to change the VR. MAKE SURE that you do not reverse the blue and green wires to the VR, I am told you will fry if you do. The blue wire should go to the pin in the high part of the connector just as A383Wing has posted in the schmatic. It's easy to reverse these if you use a replacement connector...do you hear the voice of experience here? Yeah, I did it.
67 coronet
Well-Known Member
make sure all contact points for the alt are clean.i mean were it bolts to the eng.also check to see if you have a good ground from eng to chassis,most common cause of the infamos dodge light pulsation.
TRAMO
Well-Known Member
by engine to chassis you mean the large wire from engine to firewall?
69.roadrunner
Member
I also had the same issue but mine was a problem black wire to the ignition. All my lights had a heartbeat. Ended up installing a relay and re wired the charging system to bypass the ignition switch. Just another thought in case the suggestions above don't solve your issue. Let us know what worked for you
TRAMO
Well-Known Member
thanx 69rr
TRAMO
Well-Known Member
what type of relay and what did your wire it to?
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also stock ameter hand bounces on the discharge side but alternator is charging but to get it to charge i had to run the battery wire from the alternator directly to the pos battery.
TRAMO
Well-Known Member
see my other post about this problem
TRAMO
Well-Known Member
what does that mean?
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