Intake Valley Pan Mod or not?

[RRDon]

I'm getting ready to install my new Edelbrock performer intake manifold on my 383 RR but first the valley pan gasket. It's been many years since I originally worked on these engines so I looked it up to refresh my memory and here's what I found:

My question for all you experienced high performance engine build guys is: Do you recommend doing it this way? Have any of you guys done this?
I'd really appreciate any knowledgeable about this procedure. Thanks, RRDon

 

[Don Frelier]

I just dry fit the valley. I've never had the valley pan restrict the intake ports, unless you've really messed with the geometry milling heads or something else. I think it's a waste of time.

 

[RRDon]

I'm getting ready to install my new Edelbrock performer intake manifold on my 383 RR but first the valley pan gasket. It's been many years since I originally worked on these engines so I looked it up to refresh my memory and here's what I found:
View attachment 683099
My question for all you experienced high performance engine build guys is: Do you recommend doing it this way? Have any of you guys done this?
I'd really appreciate any knowledgeable about this procedure. Thanks, RRDon

stock 906 heads, don't know if they were milled or not. But it's not high compression.

 

[RRDon]

stock 906 heads, don't know if they were milled or not. But if they were it was only to clean up. Engine does not have high compression.

 

[beanhead]

I agree with Don. The pan ports should be larger than the head ports so they won't be obstructing anything. If they overhang a little bit you can just trim the port area a tad. If you're worried about it look into a separate valley tray... You can even get two-piece styles that can be installed without having to lift a head. I know guys have done the trim-the-valley pan method, personally I wouldn't try it it just seems like you would never get reliable sealing as those metal pans are meant to be clamped between the intake and heads.. that stamped metal just isn't perfectly flat and straight especially after you cut it.

 

[khryslerkid]

Biggest thing is to set the bare manifold onto the bare heads to check for any uneven gaps. If the heads or block have ever been milled you might notice the upper part of the manifold is touching the heads and there is a gap at the lower contact point. That's when you might want to use one or two of the gaskets that come with the pan. If the fit is square between the manifold and heads, just use the pan without any gaskets.

Also the pan with the blocked crossover is great for keeping the carb base cooler when useing the ethanol gas of today.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I'm getting ready to install my new Edelbrock performer intake manifold on my 383 RR but first the valley pan gasket. It's been many years since I originally worked on these engines so I looked it up to refresh my memory and here's what I found:
View attachment 683099
My question for all you experienced high performance engine build guys is: Do you recommend doing it this way? Have any of you guys done this?
I'd really appreciate any knowledgeable about this procedure. Thanks, RRDon

I've actually done that once when I had a really bad intake/head mis-alignment issue. I used one set of the paper intake/head gaskets to seal the intake to the heads & used some RTV along the edges of the cut up valley pan....seemed to work, but I don't think most people need it & any blow-by at all & it will leak oil pretty easily.

 

[RRDon]

OK, I'll set the bare manifold on the bare heads and check for flatness between the two surfaces. I'll do that first then determine how to proceed. Thanks guys!
(It's like having all you guys in my garage helping answer questions and giving seasoned advice. Very cool. I'd offer you all a beer if you were here ;)

 

[Kern Dog]

Sometimes I see stuff in these books that make no sense to the average guy. Its as if they feel the need to put in stuff just to make it seem different from all the other books available.
In a book titled "Project Charger", a guy was restoring a Plum Crazy 1970 Charger. In one segment, he used an engine hoist to remove the steering box. What kind of limp wristed wuss can't lift a steering box out of a car??
Back on topic:
I always use the valley pan in its original form. I tighten down the two ends with the 7/16" head bolts and look at how the port openings in the valley tin line up with the ports in the heads. The only time that I have seen a mismatch is when I have used thicker head gaskets to lower the compression. This makes the cylinder heads effectively further apart and with that, the valley pan ports seem too low, blocking the top edges of the head ports. To compensate, I have used thicker Mr Gasket B/RB intake gaskets part # 301. Problem solved.

 

[RRDon]

Yeah, I guess like most things each situation can be different. I sure wish I'd been able to obtain the build specs on this engine. The old guy I bought the car from didn't provide much of any specific info about about the restoration. He had a lot of health problems and wasn't able (or willing) to provide specifics.
In case anyone is wondering, I did make sure it's a real Road Runner and it was not stolen. ;)

 

[moparedtn]

In case anyone is wondering, I did make sure it's a real Road Runner and it was not stolen. ;)

Well, that's always a plus I've found.