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Introducing "Project Odyssey" a 1972 "Super Satellite"

Final finish of louvers after block sanding with 100 grit up to 400 grit (600 grit on the edges) and then several coats of SEM Trim Black paint.

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Restoration Update: Headlamp buckets

My attempt at adjusting the headlamps resulted in finding seized adjusting screws and breaking up the plastic nuts. So while waiting for new adjusters, I refinished the headlamp assemblies.

The sheet metal behind the buckets was in good shape (foto #1). I simply used a scratch pad, a coat of Rust-Oleum rust reformer (foto #2), and than using a brush applied Rust-Oleum clean metal primer (white) (foto#3) and left it at that:

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The templates that hold the adjusting screws, springs, and the buckets themselves were rusted solid. After a laundry detergent wash I let Evaporust take over (foto #1), then four Rust-Oleum products: rust reformer (foto #2), rusty metal red primer (foto #3), gray primer (foto #4 and #6) and a yellow color coat that almost matches the body color (foto #5). P.S. Actually i used some navel jelly after the evaporust and before the rust reformer, just to be sure.

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To finish up I painted the buckets a Rust-Oleum high heat silver that matches the original color (foto #1). This paint is advertised for use on stove pipes and metal chimneys. The plastic splash guards were a little worse for wear, starting to get pretty thin in a few places but they will just have to do (plastic, ugh!). They were finished with SEM trim black (foto #2), and the '72 RR grille portion (#3) was already re-finished last year. P.S. If you look closely at the wiring in foto #1, you can see that I upgraded with a headlamp relay kit from FABO member "crackedback".

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Restoration Update: Backlight Louvers (again)

During the final louver fit, I had a minor disaster and broke off the stud pedestal for the passenger side piece. The thread count on those pedestals is very small for some reason. Fortunately, I had spare side pieces for both sides (long story). The replacement passenger side piece is not painted yet in the fotos (sanded only).

The body gap on the driver's side piece is much, much greater than the sliver sized gap on the passenger side piece (see fotos). No amount of sanding is going to close that gap. The fit of the side pieces to the top crossmember piece leaves a little bit to be desired, but I probably can't ask for more being such that the molds that Dayclona made were from older factory parts. I am sure I will be pleased with the final effect I was looking for.

Keeping things clean without trapping water everywhere will be a little painful. I see more "dusting" in my future than "washing". And the dust to be found in this desert area is infinite.

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Restoration Update: Heater Control
The heater control brace (plastic tab) was snapped off. Cleaned it up, affixed with super glue, and reinforced it with two-part epoxy (also reinforced other weak areas). Renewed all the rusty metal parts as well.

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Restoration Update: Defroster Duct All four plastic tabs to secure the duct to the metal dash had broken away. After measuring and marking with white nail polish, attached substitute tabs using plumber's perforated metal hanging strap and JB weld. Than reinforced the JB weld with two part epoxy followed by Trim Black SEM paint. Probably stronger now than factory original.

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Restoration Update: Had the local stainless steel fabricators make me a package shelf and glove box liner. Holes for lamp, radio antenna, and radio wire loom were included in the glove box construction. I marked/drilled the holes for the fasteners myself to make sure things lined up perfectly.

I made wooden spacers and used gaskets for the speakers to eliminate vibration and to accommodate the speakers to the two non-identical sized factory stampings for speaker/defroster.

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Restoration Update: Trunk gutter corner The only "hole" found so far on this project has been the driver's side trunk gutter. After much sanding and grinding the area was treated with Navel Jelly and Rust-Oleum rust reformer.
Then two stainless steel (food grade) "templates" were affixed behind the perforated area using 3M panel adhesive and various clamps (no welding because vehicle already finish painted).

Fiberglass filler and paint were applied to fill in the gaps over the SS templates.

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This is what the SS templates look like after attachment with 3M #08115 adhesive, fiberglass filler (duraglass), Rust-Oleum primer/topcoat.

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Restoration Update: Custom dash insert and console
A local carpenter helped me replace the faux wood grain accents with some real Alder wood. The underside of the console has one coat of a two-part epoxy for reinforcement and to help ward off any tendency to crack in the future.

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I have always wondered how real wood would work in place of the plastic. Looks good.
Is your dash pad redone?
 
Restoration Update: Dash Pad The previous owner had the dash pad re-done (and car re-painted) I understand in Tijuana some years ago. So the worn out re-done dash pad in my possession was missing the map light feature, that space having been covered up with foam and fabric. It was a simple procedure for my local upholstery guy to repair it the same way for like $60.00 US funds. I chose the "camel" color from the sample fabric book.

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Restoration Update: Paint/Insulate Floor Pan Used my usual and customary multi-step plan. Degrease, sand/chip/grind, Naval Jelly, rust reformer (Rust-Oleum), rusty metal red primer (Rust-Oleum), standard non-hardening seam sealer and white clean metal primer (Rust-Oleum). The most severe rusted area was passenger side floorboard. No pinholes anywhere.

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Restoration Update: Final Trunk Coating & Inside Firewall I used a scuff pad on the Rust-Oleum rusty metal red primer that was the previous finish of the trunk floor (see post #36 for prep). Then I applied two coats of black "Monstaliner" about six hours apart (they also offer a more expensive "colored' product). I would have preferred to have waited overnight between coats, but I mixed the two-part coating all at once instead of reserving half for later. The next morning, I parked the vehicle in the sun (the trunk lid was already removed). A couple of hours later, I noticed the "Monstaliner" had begun to bubble/lift in a few areas where it had been applied super thick. I moved the vehicle back inside the garage.

The evaporating vapors emitted a strong odor for over a week. I noticed that after the coating had dried, the bubbled areas had permanently lost some adhesion to the surface below. What I cannot determine is if both layers lifted or if the second coat lifted from the base/first coat. I would have to scrape it off to find out.

The other glitch is where I tried to touch up a few areas after the surface had already skinned over. That was a mistake. In those small "touch-up" areas, the finish was left feeling like sandpaper, rather different than the smooth, slick surfaces that were not disturbed by touch up attempts.

Don't know if someday I will try to re-do this area again, using my initial experience to insure a better finish look and superior adhesion. The product is expensive (advertised as being "UV permanent") and I don't feel like repeating the process for the time being. I am satisfied with the projected protection it will provide for the trunk floor.

I prepared the inside firewall by sanding, rust reformer, and RustOleum paint. I left it in primer red. This was completed before the interior floor was painted and insulated.

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Restoration Update: Tuff Wheel and Upholstery Installed a real factory Tuff Wheel but had to use the wheel wrap because the foam grip was deteriorated.

Showed my local Mexican upholstery shop fotos of 1971 Road Runner seats and they did their best to duplicate the style. I was completely satisfied. We used new '72 Bbody bucket seat foam buns purchased on-line.

I needed to place foam strips between both buckets and the floor console to prevent rubbing because it now seems the seats are over-stuffed a little. They are very comfortable (I experienced no '"butt aches" on my recent almost 5,000 mile road trip).

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I also replaced the 4" chunk of foam that was missing from the center of the rear seat bottom (goes over the center tunnel hump) that keeps a third back seater from busting their tail bone. Had the upholstery shop cover it and provide loops so that I could attach it and keep it in place with zip ties (zip ties not shown in fotos).

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Restoration Update: Upper and Lower Door Hinges
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/has-anyone-done-this-hinge-rebuild-kit.131192/

With the rebuild kit you will need a "Z" size steel drill bit so that the bronze colored bushings will be snug in the new hole. There are no instructions with the kits, so study the thread I listed above first to read about opinions/tricks/pitfalls. You will need to find a way to remove the old pins and springs. It will be tricky to get it all back together. I needed a bench vice and a buddy for reassembly.

After the rebuild, my passenger door definitely opens and closes like new. My driver door needs to be raised a little more (but I don't want to fiddle right now and scratch the paint).

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