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ISO delete with lowering block added...

casey henson

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This is a 1 1/2" lowering block installed with the rubber deleted. As you know you cant use lowering blocks without deleting the rubber first. I figured out a way to retain the factory shock and sway bar mount top plate.
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well...its captured on 4 sides and has a bolt going straight through the middle of it. I don't think its going anywhere lol.

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If the car is making any real kind of power it will probably crush that extrusion over time.
 
If the car is making any real kind of power it will probably crush that extrusion over time.
This was just a scrap piece of material I used for mockup but I questioned it also. After doing some research on this particular material it turns out it is strong enough after all. In fact now I have decided to leave it. Also, this is not a drag car so I'm good. Thank you though.
 
That chunk of 80/20 is plenty strong.
But if the springs rub at all as things move it will wear that out right quick and it will start getting misshapen. It is made of plain recycled aluminum. Basically everything is harder than it.
I wouldn't jump to replace it right away but I would keep an eye on it. If the corners start to round out right away I would plan a replacement for it sooner then later. If the rubbing is minimal it may last a good while.
Nice job with the concept though :)
 
That chunk of 80/20 is plenty strong.
But if the springs rub at all as things move it will wear that out right quick and it will start getting misshapen. It is made of plain recycled aluminum. Basically everything is harder than it.
I wouldn't jump to replace it right away but I would keep an eye on it. If the corners start to round out right away I would plan a replacement for it sooner then later. If the rubbing is minimal it may last a good while.
Nice job with the concept though :)

Agree 100 precent. At first I was going to use a standard 2" lowering block but the problem with those is they all come with some kind of locating pin or hole on each side. That would be okay except for the existing holes are larger than 3/8 dia. I believe they are 5/8". I needed to be able to run a 3/8 bolt through the index bushing on top and through the spacer out the bottom of the spring in order to hold it all in place.

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Finished it up today. Here is the final result. I am happy with just lowering it 1" for now.
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That chunk of 80/20 is plenty strong.
But if the springs rub at all as things move it will wear that out right quick and it will start getting misshapen. It is made of plain recycled aluminum. Basically everything is harder than it.
I wouldn't jump to replace it right away but I would keep an eye on it. If the corners start to round out right away I would plan a replacement for it sooner then later. If the rubbing is minimal it may last a good while.
Nice job with the concept though :)

I started having second thoughts on this after I started torquing each of the U bolt nuts down to 65ft lbs. the 80/20 is showing no signs of failing but I needed some insurance so I am replacing with solid...
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I started having second thoughts on this after I started torquing each of the U bolt nuts down to 65ft lbs. the 80/20 is showing no signs of failing but I needed some insurance so I am replacing with solid...
View attachment 1620334
I would still watch for the tell tale signs of aluminum wearing, "galling" if it rubs at all. BUT, that should last a heck of a lot longer even if it does.

You know, bonus points if you could match that arc of the spring a little bit so that gap isn't underneath. I bet the rub factor would almost dissappear then.
 
I would still watch for the tell tale signs of aluminum wearing, "galling" if it rubs at all. BUT, that should last a heck of a lot longer even if it does.

You know, bonus points if you could match that arc of the spring a little bit so that gap isn't underneath. I bet the rub factor would almost dissappear then.
hahaha funny you say that about matching the arc of the spring. I was thinking the same today. :D I don't know if you have ever messed with lowering blocks. I have done this a few times on other vehicles though the years. When you torque the U bolts there is enough force to press the leaf completely flat in the area under the block. Also, It is recommended that you come back and retorque the U bolts a few times after the initial install.
 
I would be much more worried about all that rubber fuel line coming from the fuel pump that is dangling inches from the tire than those aluminum pieces wearing out...
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I would still watch for the tell tale signs of aluminum wearing, "galling" if it rubs at all. BUT, that should last a heck of a lot longer even if it does.

You know, bonus points if you could match that arc of the spring a little bit so that gap isn't underneath. I bet the rub factor would almost dissappear then.

IMG_5309a.JPG
 
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