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just a little off the back and sides please

the quarters will dictate things from this point on....... get the quarters tacked firmly into place, attach the drop off to the bottom of the quarter with a couple screws, you may need to adjust this a bit....... now jack the entire trunk and rails into place and screw or tack the pan to the drops and inner wheel house

Tip: where the drops meet the trunk pan....drill the plug weld holes in the trunk pan, not on the drops: it leaves more room for the welder and grinder..... where the trunk pan meets the inner wheelhouse, drill the holes in the wheel house for the same reason. If the inner wheelhouse is rusty swiss cheese, just replace the bottom inch or so with new metal

....... use enough screws or tacks to hold it firmly in place until welded........ I leave the tail panel off until all the work inside the trunk is complete...... last, attach the tail panel, test fit quarter extensions, your deck lid is where you set it earlier and will help......... this stuff ain't rocket science, but patience and cleanliness is key.......good luck
 
and when you're done with all that, you can replace the roof....... with a donor that was supplied to you that someone cut short on all 4 corners.....

while jacking the entire front 3 inches and replacing the rockers because it was bent in half while in a crush pile at the junk yard

then we can walk you through paint :fool:

#moremiraclesthanjesus



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only skins are available for the 70 coronets, but I prefer to replace the whole panel if available....anyway, first thing you need to do before cutting is bolt on the trunk lid and line it up as close to perfect on all 3 sides as you can; with the emphasis on the front edge. Most of these cars will also need the panel behind the rear window replaced. This isn't very difficult, but aligning the trunk lid to the original will help locate the replacement. it can be done first; leave the deck lid bolted in place either way.

Sorry for your pain (and thanks for detail!), eldub440. TOTAL novice question #1: what's the difference between a skin and whole panel? I am thinking the skin is the side and the whole panel is the total fender -- top and bottom. #2: I do need the deck filler panel replaced and have a new one in hand; do I do that before the trunk and skins?
 
If the inner wheelhouse is rusty swiss cheese, just replace the bottom inch or so with new metal

TOTAL Novice question #2: where does one buy new metal? And I would imagine you have some basic metal molding tools; what do you recommend I get?
 
ew metal is AMD

TOTAL Novice question #3: I bought my trunk pan and front floor pan from AMD and their prices are higher than Classic Industries. AMD is out of stock on the quarter skins for the 68 Coronet, which are priced at $349 each compared to Classic Industries which are in stock for $180 each. Thoughts/expert opinion?
 
Sorry for your pain (and thanks for detail!), eldub440. TOTAL novice question #1: what's the difference between a skin and whole panel? I am thinking the skin is the side and the whole panel is the total fender -- top and bottom. #2: I do need the deck filler panel replaced and have a new one in hand; do I do that before the trunk and skins?

a full quarter wraps over into the trunk opening and goes up tp the roof seam on the sail panel

if doing full quarters, it's best to do the dutchman panel (behind rear glass) at the same time, other than that it doesn't really matter
 
TOTAL Novice question #2: where does one buy new metal? And I would imagine you have some basic metal molding tools; what do you recommend I get?

in recent years, I've had the car owners source their own parts....... someone on this site can offer better advice

basic metal tools? hammer and a cut off wheel lol
 
TOTAL Novice question #3: I bought my trunk pan and front floor pan from AMD and their prices are higher than Classic Industries. AMD is out of stock on the quarter skins for the 68 Coronet, which are priced at $349 each compared to Classic Industries which are in stock for $180 each. Thoughts/expert opinion?

the consensus is that AMD parts are superior, although I have found all aftermarket metal to be hit and miss...... I find a way to work with what I am supplied with, it usually involves some cutting/slicing here and there to make fit
 
Nice progress, looking almost like new:thumbsup:

When I first joined this site I saw brace this, brace that and I thought.. good lord I hope my car is alright because I didn't lol. I replaced the full quarters, trunk, Dutchman, taillight panel and the roof... my first ever resto I might add:eek:. My take was.. I can lift this whole entire shell so exactly what is going to bend it because it sure as hell isn't weight! It went back together just as you described, zero issues.
the consensus is that AMD parts are superior, although I have found all aftermarket metal to be hit and miss...... I find a way to work with what I am supplied with, it usually involves some cutting/slicing here and there to make fit
On my dad's truck I've had everything except AMD and I'm a firm believer that AMD is superior. So far I've used AMD, Goodmark, Sherman and ABS over the years but not Classic Industries. All of them except AMD had one major problem... they weren't complete panels! That pisses me off, buy a rocker to replace a rusty one and you get one that's 4" shy on both ends leaving the other 8" for you to patch? A Dutchman that stops shy of the rotted rear window channel? My trunk from ABS was missing the whole rear lip where it's welded to the tailight panel and mine was shot? Aggrevating!
 
Nice progress, looking almost like new:thumbsup:

the pics in this thread are from 3 different cars lol..... but it's all the same ****

I've never been supplied with "short" panels, F that...... pretty sure most everything I've dealt with was with AMD or Goodmark ..... I'm certainly not into patch panels
 
in recent years, I've had the car owners source their own parts....... someone on this site can offer better advice

basic metal tools? hammer and a cut off wheel lol
Actually I wasn't clear on the metal; I know of AMD, Jegs, Classic Industries, etc. to buy fabricated pieces. My question was if I needed to cut my own patch to repair a hole or a section, where do I get THAT sheet metal?
 
Actually I wasn't clear on the metal; I know of AMD, Jegs, Classic Industries, etc. to buy fabricated pieces. My question was if I needed to cut my own patch to repair a hole or a section, where do I get THAT sheet metal?

tractor supply and home depot both sell various sizes and thicknesses of sheet metal....... then we just get creative
 
eldub440 (and anyone else who wishes to weigh in), I'm in need of some direction as I've never done this before. I am working on the trunk/rear of my 68 Coronet and have a full AMD trunk panel to install. However, I am wondering what I need to do before I do that. I'm posting some pictures and will ask questions associated with the pictures; since I don't know what I don't know, please feel free to offer advice!

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eldub440, I reinstalled the trunk lid as you suggested.

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and I cut away much of the trunk.

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First question: do I replace the rear driver frame? Or do I patch it? Or do I cap it? What would YOU do?

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Third question (related to the second): My new trunk panel is a full panel. How do I get it into the trunk? eldub440 removed the tail panel (actually, he removed EVERYTHING!) Is that what I need to do?

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I just trimmed the bad metal from the trunk. Do I remove the whole trunk pan? Any tips on how to do that?

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