LCA Bushing Question Need Help for a stupid question

[Rick]

Before I go ripping things apart thought I better ask around. Attached are a few photos of a LCA that I have purchased and started rebuilding. It came without bushings excpet for what appears is the outer bushing shell.

Have seen examples on the internet showing different styles and fabrications on where the bushings go. I have tried to move what I think is the outer shell independent of the torsion bar fixture but it doesnt seem to move independently.

Can anyone give me some advice by looking at the photos if what is shown is the outer bushing shell or part of the LCA. The new bushing I ordered looks to be a bit small if this is the old outer bushing shell.

Also if it is the old outer bushing shell any ideas on how to remove it?

ANy help would be appreciated.

Also it looks like the old LCA pivot shaft has been welded into the K frame any suggestions the best way to mount the LCA?

 

[Coronet 14]

That looks like the outer shell. The Opening is larger than that. if you run your finger down the inside when woy get to the bottom of the bushing you will frrl the bottom edge. Mancini Racing sells the tool to remove this sleeve

 

[OSDart]

No need to remove it, just purchase the poly bushings and install in the existing sleave. Have you removed the lock nut from the pivots?

 

[Rick]

I started by doing the driver side first so the passenger side existing set up is still in place. yes I have the nut for the outer side of the pivot. I left the nut on and tried to bang the pivot out with a rubber mallet but it didnt budge.

 

[funnykarman]

The lower control arm pin should come out by taking the nut off the front and hitting the end with a hammer , be sure to cover the threads with a piece of wood before using a hammer . as far as the sleeve goes this is how I removed it from my LCR . I put a socket that would just fit into the sleeve with the socket square down so you can use a extension to push it out later , find a washer that will fit ust inside of the hole and weld it in place in several locations . make sure not to weld it to the lower arm , then place a 6 inch extension in the back side into the socket that is in the sleeve and push it out in a press . takes about 5 minutes .to remove the sleeve from your lower control pin , after removing the pin take a cold chisel and lock it in a vise . use the chisel and make line of marks from end to end . do this again about 45 % on the next side . doing his spreads the bushing and will allow you to slide it off with your hand ..I tried to find my old one to show you but it's gone . if you look at your new bushing you will see the outer metal sleeve and the inner one . the old one on the arm will have to come off . I checked shops around where I lived and it's about $50 or $ 60 bucks to do this so I bought a press for a $100 and have the use of it later ... hope this helps ....

 

[JamieZ]

I used the 1-3/8" tap method. Essentially buy a used 1-3/8" tap off eBay (or similar) wind it in and then drive it out.

It worked pretty well, but once the shell was out, I couldn't figure a good way to get it off the tap, so I just chopped a groove in it with the angle grinder and vice gripped it off:

I broke the tap driving out the second bushing, but that was all I needed it for.

 

[Meep-Meep]

The lower control arm pin should come out by taking the nut off the front and hitting the end with a hammer , be sure to cover the threads with a piece of wood before using a hammer . as far as the sleeve goes this is how I removed it from my LCR . I put a socket that would just fit into the sleeve with the socket square down so you can use a extension to push it out later , find a washer that will fit ust inside of the hole and weld it in place in several locations . make sure not to weld it to the lower arm , then place a 6 inch extension in the back side into the socket that is in the sleeve and push it out in a press . takes about 5 minutes .View attachment 260399View attachment 260400to remove the sleeve from your lower control pin , after removing the pin take a cold chisel and lock it in a vise . use the chisel and make line of marks from end to end . do this again about 45 % on the next side . doing his spreads the bushing and will allow you to slide it off with your hand ..I tried to find my old one to show you but it's gone . if you look at your new bushing you will see the outer metal sleeve and the inner one . the old one on the arm will have to come off . I checked shops around where I lived and it's about $50 or $ 60 bucks to do this so I bought a press for a $100 and have the use of it later ... hope this helps ....

This is exactly how I do it.

 

[Rick]

I dont have a welder so I am looking for other ways. Thanks

 

[dickdale]

I've just done this job. But i'm using polyurethane bushings from Energy Suspension. They need the old outer bushing shell, so I didn't had to remove them. I was an easy job, just pushing the poly bushings in, with alot of grease and then pressing the pivot shaft in...

 

[miller]

I've been there, too, Rick.

Need a good hand for this...but, no press, no welder (kinda like me)...any port in the storm.

I have used a chisel, or punch, working carefully to cave in that outer bushing shell. It's not easy, but can be done, and the shell pretty much fall out. Just don't damage the arm hole itself. Keep working on one side of the shell, until it gives.

Putting the new bushing in, by hand...takes a big, fine threaded bolt, nut, and a selection of heavy washers, or spacers. Use your imagination, what needs to be pushed against on both the arm, and bushing, to pull it into place. All your doing is using the bolt/nut, to push/pull the bushing into the hole.

Have done those acts a handful of times. Just takes a little work.

 

[Cranky]

Do you have a die grinder? You can groove the old one to where it's almost cut through then cave it in on itself pull it out. Looks like the inner sleeve is still on the pivot shaft but that's much easier to get off.

 

[themechanic]

I did this last summer.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...nt-Suspension-Rebuild-Steps&highlight=bushing

 

[Bb70charger500]

I love the tap idea that seems prity easy I usually leave them because I use the energy suspension Bush and they don't come with new sleeves. You may just want to leave it and spend a few buccks on energy suspension stuff the reg rubber ones don't last as long and if your like me once is enough to do a job.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Man I like my air chisel makes fast work remove that casing.

 

[themechanic]

Energy and other urethane bushings are very hard and make the ride harsh. They are also notorius for squeeks if you do not grease them enough when you install them.

If you want a factory ride go with OEM. If you want a firm ride go with urethane.

 

[pdiz]

What size tap for a '73-74 B-body? The 1-3/8" tap is slightly too small, probably an A-body thing. I'm thinking 1-7/16" or maybe even 1-1/2" but that seems like it would be a little too big.

 

[andyf]

Those bushing sleeves can be tough to remove, especially if you don't want to hack up the lower control arm. The FSM recommends using a chisel but if you do it that way you end up with a real hack job. I used to use a large end mill in a Bridgeport to remove the shell. I'd just slowly walk the end mill into the sleeve until it starts to spin and then peel it out of there. You have to be super careful to not cut into the lower control arm. The welding method works pretty well if you have a welder and a press. I haven't used the big tap method. I don't know how well that would work but you might try it if you don't have any other way.

 

[pdiz]

Yeah, unfortunately, I just have a press, no welder. I've seen the tap/press method work well on a YouTube video I watched. Again, it was for an A-body, so I guess it's off to buy another tap that's slightly larger than 1-3/8".