Logan Woloszak
Member
I just replaced the head gaskets no my 383 and it has a decent leak when running on the driver side between the head and block. There is no coolant in the oil. Is the head gasket blown?
Leaking coolant between head and block
- Thread starter Logan Woloszak
- Start date
Daves69
Well-Known Member
Pictures of the leak area?
Maybe compression / leak down test the cylinder(s) closest to the leak.
Maybe compression / leak down test the cylinder(s) closest to the leak.
BLK 68 R/T
Well-Known Member
Sure it’s not leaking from the exhaust manifold stud and creating the illusion of a head gasket leaking?
beanhead
Easily Offensive
A trick to confirm where the leak is coming from is to dry the area really good and dust it with baby powder on and around where you noticed the leak. You'll be able to see the leak path in the powder. You can also pull the plug in the closest cylinder(s) and check for any evidence of coolant getting in, like wetness or super-clean plugs. Try to verify it as best you can before taking it back apart...that's never much fun!
Logan Woloszak
Member
The plugs are all clean and I’m sure it’s not coming from the exhaust bolts. It’s definitely from in between the block and head
BLK 68 R/T
Well-Known Member
Well if you are absolutely certain it’s coming from between the head and the block...as they used to say in medieval times, “off with the head!”
beanhead
Easily Offensive
Okay. Well, sounds like the head's gotta come back off. Sometimes there's pitting on these old blocks that remains after the machining cut so be on the lookout for that. A crack in the head casting could also be possible.
What type of gasket did you use?
davek
Well-Known Member
Did it leak before? New head gaskets? Torqued right? Same heads or new?
Logan Woloszak
Member
I used the fel pro 1009s. Same heads as before but it wasn’t leaking. All the bolts were torqued to 70 foot pounds in the right sequence and in steps. Is there supposed to be sealer on the head bolts?
PurpleBeeper
Well-Known Member
Hold on... did you mill the heads? Maybe you need washers on the head bolts if you did (at least on that side)? Maybe some of the head bolts on that side are bottomed out in their holes and not really torqued?
Did you forget to torque a head bolt somehow? Maybe try to re-torque the head bolts, at least in the area of the leak if you can before pulling the head? Were the heads resurfaced at all? (maybe warped?)
It sucks, but it's not the end of the world if you have to pull of the head on one side. Just leave the other head bolted on.
If it were me, I'd at least try to add some head bolt washers to the head bolts in the closest two cylinders to the leak (as allowable), retorque the head bolts and give it a try before I pulled the head.
Did you forget to torque a head bolt somehow? Maybe try to re-torque the head bolts, at least in the area of the leak if you can before pulling the head? Were the heads resurfaced at all? (maybe warped?)
It sucks, but it's not the end of the world if you have to pull of the head on one side. Just leave the other head bolted on.
If it were me, I'd at least try to add some head bolt washers to the head bolts in the closest two cylinders to the leak (as allowable), retorque the head bolts and give it a try before I pulled the head.
R413
Well-Known Member
Did you clean the bolt holes on the block?
Are the bolts clean?
Did you lube the bolt threads and the bottom of the bolt head?
Is your torque wrench accurate?
what is a felpro 1009?
What is the finish on the deck surface and the head?
Aluminum or iron head?
BB head bolts are dry no sealer needed.
Best to make sure where the leak is before you take it apart again.
Are the bolts clean?
Did you lube the bolt threads and the bottom of the bolt head?
Is your torque wrench accurate?
what is a felpro 1009?
What is the finish on the deck surface and the head?
Aluminum or iron head?
BB head bolts are dry no sealer needed.
Best to make sure where the leak is before you take it apart again.
beanhead
Easily Offensive
No sealer on BB head bolts, just oil or lube to get the torque.
1009s have been problematic for some with 440s due the fire ring overhanging. I've not heard of it being an issue on the 383, but nonetheless give all the sealing edges a good look. If you can post some good pictures of the trouble spots once you have it apart that'd be cool too.
Logan Woloszak
Member
Should any copper spray be used on the gaskets?
beanhead
Easily Offensive
No, not with that type of gasket.
BSB67
Well-Known Member
unlikely
69L48Z27
Well-Known Member
I’ve built a few stock 440s now and I use the FelPro kits. The first two would weep some coolant from that area, but we’re talking a streak down the block here or there. The last few I used the copper spray and I haven’t seen any streaks on these engines.
But nothing I would call a leak. I would pressure test the cooling system and figure out absolutely where it’s coming from before tear down. That way you can look at the surfaces and know where it’s coming from.
But nothing I would call a leak. I would pressure test the cooling system and figure out absolutely where it’s coming from before tear down. That way you can look at the surfaces and know where it’s coming from.
Logan Woloszak
Member
Thank you for all the help. I’m gonna locate exactly where the leak is from and go from there.
davek
Well-Known Member
Please let us know.
Shifter
New Member
I have a similar situation. I have coolant stains down the driver side of the block. Motor has not been apart recently, but it did have an exhaust leak on the driver side. When I replaced the exhaust gasket is when I noticed the coolant stains. I check under the car and the stained area and there appears to be no leak currently happening. Which exhaust bolts are prone to leak on the driver side. Also, I'm running stock cast iron manifolds.
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