67MPRFAN
Well-Known Member
No right, for me shifting was happening quick when releasing the button, I was more comfortable with my hand already there
LemonWedge 727 build
- Thread starter LemonWedge
- Start date
LemonWedge
Well-Known Member
Made some progress yesterday, hoping to have this thing buttoned up today.
HUGE shout out to DVW, who took a few minutes away from his own project to talk through a few questions with the assembly and make me feel more confident with what I was seeing. This is my first solo assembly, so a few questions and a little help is an essential part of the process.
Endplay looks about right at .037 at the input shaft. Planning to tackle the valvebody today. Hopefully we’ll have this thing ready for install real soon.
HUGE shout out to DVW, who took a few minutes away from his own project to talk through a few questions with the assembly and make me feel more confident with what I was seeing. This is my first solo assembly, so a few questions and a little help is an essential part of the process.
Endplay looks about right at .037 at the input shaft. Planning to tackle the valvebody today. Hopefully we’ll have this thing ready for install real soon.
LemonWedge
Well-Known Member
Thought I had run into a snag when I air-checked the assembly and thought I was getting a leak. I had been told that an exhaust hole drilled in the front drum would essentially be a leak. But I just wasn’t willing to trust it. Pulled it all back apart and air-checked it again with just the drum assemblies and pump. Sure enough…. The clutch packs were applying, and the leaking air was coming out of the hole drilled in the face of the front drum.
Re-assembled and turned my attention to the valvebody and bottom side. Everything went together without issue. I set both bands to 72”/lbs - 2 turns. Chased all the fastener threads, and buttoned it up. Hopefully I can find time next weekend to install it and road test it.
Re-assembled and turned my attention to the valvebody and bottom side. Everything went together without issue. I set both bands to 72”/lbs - 2 turns. Chased all the fastener threads, and buttoned it up. Hopefully I can find time next weekend to install it and road test it.
LemonWedge
Well-Known Member
update:
Install has been slowed by work and life…. But it is in and done. Now focused on getting the car on the ground, valve adjustment & oil change. Should be test driving it real soon.
Install has been slowed by work and life…. But it is in and done. Now focused on getting the car on the ground, valve adjustment & oil change. Should be test driving it real soon.
LemonWedge
Well-Known Member
Project complete! Got the car started today and took it around the block for a test drive. Initial response is that it feels very good. The new converter from A-1 appears to be noticeably looser at idle, yet feels somehow more connected. When you shift into gear, the feel is much more positive than previous. The timeslip will tell the real story, but A-1 did tell me they thought I could expect both a 1000 rpm higher stall speed, and tighter performance up top. I have hopes that they are correct.
Initial feedback on the Cope valvebody is extremely positive. The gear changes are literally IMMEDIATE; and far firmer than previous with the T-A Cheetah valvebody. Literally the exact moment the B&M lever hits its detent, it firmly nails the next gear both 2nd & 3rd with most positive feel I’ve ever experienced. Holding the button while backing up will take some getting used to, but I’m sure it won’t be an issue.
I’m super excited to get to the track. This has the makings to be the biggest step forward in my program that I’ve experienced.
Initial feedback on the Cope valvebody is extremely positive. The gear changes are literally IMMEDIATE; and far firmer than previous with the T-A Cheetah valvebody. Literally the exact moment the B&M lever hits its detent, it firmly nails the next gear both 2nd & 3rd with most positive feel I’ve ever experienced. Holding the button while backing up will take some getting used to, but I’m sure it won’t be an issue.
I’m super excited to get to the track. This has the makings to be the biggest step forward in my program that I’ve experienced.
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Wow! That's excited! I've been following as I have to do the same. I'd be happy with a trans that does what it's spossed to do!!
dvw
Well-Known Member
You can wire the trans brake with an additional circut through the reverse light switch. Then when you select reverse it will apply the brake.
Doug
Doug
LemonWedge
Well-Known Member
I did not bring it up on the 2step (currently set at 3K) and let it go. But I did apply the brake, bring the RPMs up to about 2k and let it go just to verify it was working as it’s supposed to. Everything seemed correct.
Thanks; hoping to have better luck than the past 2 seasons.
Current shifter setup will likely only be in use for one more year. Next year, as budget allows, I plan on installing a Stealth ProRatchet with a shiftnoid automated shift setup.
LemonWedge
Well-Known Member
Never thought of, nor heard of anyone doing this….. but it makes sense. I may check with John Cope to make sure he sees no problems here with the solenoid powering every time you click through the gears. but I like it.
Brilliant as always, Doug.
Tex013
Well-Known Member
I have a toggle switch with built in warning light wired for reverse , it is mounted off to 1 side of shifter cover .
Tex
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