I could add a lot of info, but would be a "deja Vu" and will become on larger discussions with some ppl posting offensive comments. All my thoughts about this is already posted around ;)
Let’s talk fuseable links. I need schooled.
- Thread starter 70ChargerRT
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70ChargerRT
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I’ve went completely over this thread again, learn something new everyday and ate some crow along the way. Some things have changed like the likes of led lights. With the led lights you no longer need to do the famous headlight relay upgrade. My LEDs on dim only pull a tad over 3 amps and with all 4 bright lights on it only pulls 10.8 amps. I had to switch out my 130 amp alternator to a 1 wire 165 amp 100 amp@idle because it didn’t put out enough idling amps. I still have questions like since I tied the ammeter together under the dash should I now run a 10 gauge Alt Fees wire straight from the alternator to the red 10 gauge ammeter. As I now have Vintage air I shouldn’t have to worry about the feed wire past the ammeter going to AC Vacuum Switch. If it recommended going to a 10 gauge wire should I bypass the bulkhead?
4406bbl
Well-Known Member
Well let's see...you have a 4 gauge from the alternator to battery, and a 10 gauge thru the bulkhead with a 16 gauge fusible link. It is always best to bypass the bulkhead, as far as hooking the 10 gauge at the alternator there is no need since you have the 4 gauge. If you had a 100% stock wiring system it would be wise to add any additional high draw accessories at the alternator stud, with your system you could do it, but there is no need.
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IMO....any additional accessory load(s) connected directly to the alternator's output connection must (or should be) protected with a fuse or fusable link. Since the alternator is also connected to the battery or charging system, a fault in the new connected accessory, without protection, will result in a "back feed" thru the existing wiring and may result in vehicle wiring and/or accessory damage.
BOB RENTON
4406bbl
Well-Known Member
Yes I agree Bob, he has the 10 gauge protected by a 16 gauge fusible link, and in prior posts it was mentioned to fuse or fuselink all additional circuits, he has done that, and that he should megafuse the 4 gauge alternator to battery lead. The alternator manufacture told him no fuse in that line, most new cars do, some don't. I agree to a point on that, I would like protection there, but sometimes no fuse, circuit breaker or fuselink will hold there.
70ChargerRT
Well-Known Member
It’s a 12 gauge wire, I’m sorry for the confusion. One guy recommended doing away with the 12 gauge alt feed wire and running a 10 gauge alt feed jumper wire and bypass the bulkhead and tie it straight in to the ammeter wire that I now have the 12 gauge alt feed wire tied in to. I don’t know how that would help me as according to the schematics, theres another red wire close or tied in somewhere at where the ammeter was at, that goes straight to the bulkhead and that’s what the 16 gauge fusible link ties plugs in to. I may be overthinking this, just want to get it right.
4406bbl
Well-Known Member
I thought this was discussed and you only need the one 10 gauge wire, protected by a 16 gauge fuse link. This assumes you removed all aftermarket add on to the factory wiring. Never feed both with 2 fuse links.
70ChargerRT
Well-Known Member
No there’s not 2 fused links. Only the factory 16 gauge fused link at the bulkhead.
4406bbl
Well-Known Member
Perfect, you can hook up both no issue if you want, as long as you only have one 16 GA fuse link, that both the 10 and 12 ga wires are hooked to.
70ChargerRT
Well-Known Member
OK, perfect, thanks again!!!
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