Let's compile rear suspension options..

[747mopar]

I know these threads have come and gone but doing a search I'm not finding much so I guess here it goes again.

I'm wanting to fix a few things on my Charger that I'm not happy with starting with the rear suspension. It drives great, sits the way I like but these springs are junk. I purchased them brand new, after installing them the car sat higher on one side than the other and an inch to high for my liking. After multiple trips to a local spring shop they got them evened out and sitting where I wanted but I still had a driveshaft vibration to deal with. After countless hours of research and tinkering with pinion angles I was able to solve the vibration but I'm still not happy. The work done by the spring shop left some weird bends in the springs and now they're banded together with banding!! I'll occasionally notice a driveshaft vibration on deceleration, look under the car and the corny banding straps have slid off of the spring stack which I believe accounts for the pinion moving? Yes I can put quality clamps on the springs but at this point I'm done with them, time to move on.

PST priced me a set of custom springs (thank you guys very much) but at the price they're wanting I'm getting close to 4 link territory depending on which option you choose of course. I'm not an OEM guy but instead look at issues like this as an opportunity to improve on the design. Try finding leaf springs on a new car, they're obviously not the best choice anymore so before I spring the $$$ for new springs I'd like to look at options.

I really like the torque arm setup, simple, takes up very little room and is an easy fit for a B Body but no offerings that I'm aware of? I'm capable of making my own so it's not off of the table.

Triangulated 4 links are a great option but a tough fit for a B Body if you want proper geometry (super short upper links).

Standard 4 link with a panhard bar, also a tougher fit but I believe would be a better fit for the car vs triangulated.

Just looking for what others have found to be a reliable setup, my car gets driven a lot and driven hard so whatever I do has to be robust and built for normal use... no heim links, all polyurethane bushings.

 

[66Satellite47]

How do you use the car? You can get a leaf spring that will work for most all street applications and real high power drag use. I'd check on ESPO's from Springs & Things. You may find yourself chasing your tail with the other options you mention.

 

[747mopar]

How do you use the car? You can get a leaf spring that will work for most all street applications and real high power drag use. I'd check on ESPO's from Springs & Things. You may find yourself chasing your tail with the other options you mention.

The fact that I'm still chasing my tail is why I'm exploring options.. I know, I know, my springs aren't a good representation of a good set lol. Just replacing my springs was my original plan but I had no idea how expensive they would be, not ruling it out though.

It's a cruiser that gets hammered on, roughly 500hp with a 6 speed manual. I like to run it through it's paces shifting at 6,000, do the occasional donuts, burnouts, etc but mostly cruising. It will wrap the springs enough to bump the pinion snubber occasionally but my biggest beef is the pinion moves up and down to freely. Going through my tribulations with correcting the driveshaft vibration I got pretty good at diagnosing what was going on back there. I guess I like the idea of a setup where once I find that sweet spot it ain't moving ever again lol. I'll check ESPO's out, honestly I'd prefer not to open a big can of worms with it being a great driver as is minus these issues but I also want a one and done solution.

 

[66Satellite47]

Well if you are doing donuts, you sure don't want any of the other options you mentioned. Check on ESPO's Then figure out what shocks work. I don't use a snubber, I build the correct leaf springs and get the shocks that make them work.

 

[RemCharger]

Calvert springs.

 

[slepr1]

I'm going to replace my leaf springs with Eaton Detroit Springs. They say they build them with the original blueprints and can adjust the final ride height up or down, in 1x inch increments. I called them and they asked a series of questions so they could make them for the intended purpose. At $260 each side that's affordable.

https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/

 

[Jarven1977]

I'm leaning towards calvert mono leafs combined with their caltracs. I would hate axle wrap so I'll definately either build or buy the caltracs. What I'm not so sure about is the mono leafs.
I was also considering 4-link but I didn't like the triangulated ones when I finally got around to investigate the angles and how they articulate.
And the traditional ones take up too much space when you try and get the correct angles in there.
So caltracs with some new springs is my choice. Hate the blocks I have right now to get my ride height.

 

[505droptop]

I used all hotchkis in the rear, springs, sway bar and their fox shocks. Works great so far

 

[747mopar]

I'm going to replace my leaf springs with Eaton Detroit Springs. They say they build them with the original blueprints and can adjust the final ride height up or down, in 1x inch increments. I called them and they asked a series of questions so they could make them for the intended purpose. At $260 each side that's affordable.

https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/

That doesn't sound bad at all.

I used all hotchkis in the rear, springs, sway bar and their fox shocks. Works great so farView attachment 1082607

I was looking at theirs just now, they advertise a few improvements over the stock setup and the price isn't bad either.

 

[66Satellite47]

I'm leaning towards calvert mono leafs combined with their caltracs. I would hate axle wrap so I'll definately either build or buy the caltracs. What I'm not so sure about is the mono leafs.
I was also considering 4-link but I didn't like the triangulated ones when I finally got around to investigate the angles and how they articulate.
And the traditional ones take up too much space when you try and get the correct angles in there.
So caltracs with some new springs is my choice. Hate the blocks I have right now to get my ride height.

Just a point of advise, a 4 bar system could drive you crazy trying to get it right. The Calverts may take bit of effort too.

 

[Larrry B.]

I used all hotchkis in the rear, springs, sway bar and their fox shocks. Works great so farView attachment 1082607

Same here, the Hotchkis springs clearly dropped the rear 1-2 inches. I running the adjustable Fox shocks.

Flying down the freeway or running through the canyons I don't have much to worry about. My only complaint would be what I call "the drop", usually when I'm coming down a stretch and there's a sudden uneven step (up or down) in the road (typically a new section of road) and I nearly bottom out. If I see, know or suspect it's coming my foot comes off the accelerator, which is exactly what I don't want to do. Even with the shocks set for more aggressive driving I'm still dealing with more vertical travel than I'd like. I'm going to be doing an automatic to manual swap (finally) soon and have a 4 point harness to go with new bucket seats, I'll get to feel it out more but may explore an upgrade as some point in the future too. For now the Hotchkis setup (with other suspension upgrades) works well overall for me.

I also have drop spindles so my car is lower than most...

 

[Darius]

I have a 4 link on my GTX. It handles pretty nice, but I am no expert. What I don't particularly care for is how it will "yank" to the left when it shifts gears (5 speed automatic).This occurs when in even the slightest turn, not so much when going straight. I like the ride though for how I drive it and that includes both having at a strip as well as on a 2 1/2 mile road course that is "hilly" not just a flat course.
I installed a complete Hotchkiss system on the 69 Dart I had. That was an awesome suspension on an A body. I imagine it would be excellent on your B body. That Dart handled like a go cart!

 

[Average Joe]

Parallel 4 link works really well. Not really anyone doing a kit anymore. This is a weld in kit by Martz chassis. They don't do them anymore unless you send them your car. Bummer too because the kit was only 1600.00 with qa1 shocks.

 

[5.7 hemi]

RMS 4 link. I installed it on a buddies 71’ Duster with a nasty 340 4 speed. That thing hooks, launches straight and handles. You won’t be disappointed if you go 4 link.

 

[Larrry B.]

RMS 4 link. I installed it on a buddies 71’ Duster with a nasty 340 4 speed. That thing hooks, launches straight and handles. You won’t be disappointed if you go 4 link.

Less vertical travel than monotube shocks and leaf springs?

 

[5.7 hemi]

I’m no suspension guru, but 4 link is better than leafs.

 

[Larrry B.]

I’m no suspension guru, but 4 link is better than leafs.

Better for what though?

I have no complaints with my current setup except vertical travel. Mostly on a quick decent with a noticeable dip and/or sudden change in road height.

 

[5.7 hemi]

EVERYTHING!!! I’d suggest that ya look into it for your own knowledge.

 

[Larrry B.]

EVERYTHING!!! I’d suggest that ya look into it for your own knowledge.

I have.. I was looking for input from someone that had actually installed / driven a 4-link setup. "Better" over leaf springs is not very clear.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Since can’t articulate to you any better, I’m out.