Let's compile rear suspension options..

[Budnicks]

RideTech rear suspension w/coil-over
or Air - Shockwave (airbag over-shock)
is the choice for a bunch of Pro-Touring or even resto-mod guys
many swear by them, good ride & exceptional handling

mostly bolt-in kits
there's welding the upper bars tabs to the top of the housing
these are like $1300-$1400, without the Shocks

shockwave kit, with the Shockwave airbag shocks

here's their coil-overs, can be used instead

A real parallel 4 link
really has the most adjustments (real fast racecars use them too)
for the street a softer end links/heims with poly or rubber bushings
(bushings vs spherical Heim joints) will not be so ridged
need a Panhard, watts-linkage or a diagonal bar between the bottom bars
to keep the rear centered
can use several styles of shocks, most common is coil-over or a Shockwave
you can get spring rates in so many different combos,
to fit your driving style or needs
most are a shorter travel suspension than a Leafspring style shock
but unless you are 4-wheeling, it can be made to work well on the street
depending on ride height & your driving style

this is an Art Morrison (Probably Camaro/Nova just for reference)

another generic 4 link for reference I think it's a Competition Engineering

partially why the 4 link or triangulated 4 Bar
handles so much better
control rise height much easier, almost infinite adjustments
some think the ride is too harsh, or too hard to dial in
BUT in reality, you can change spring rates easily
you can even get progressive (coil) spring rates too,
shocks are a huge deal in the combo

this is a generic short/long bar 4 link
Chris Alston (probably for a Camaro/Nova for referense)

Also uneven triangulated shorty 4 link, but some really like it
ladder bar & a coil-over can work on the street
like the Street Lynx or

the short top & long bottom bars, 4 link
like the MagnumForce style 4-link/Pro-Link

or like the triangulated short/long bars
Gerst 4 link below, some people love them, even some racers

then there's a Torque Arm style
really I've only seen them made for GM stuff, it works really well
could adapt it to a MoPar pretty easily if you have fab skills
can use a measuring tape & a plumb-bob &/or a building square etc.
This is Another Chris Alstopon Offering (probably GM just for reference)

double adjustable Ladders can work too, extremely adjustable
(for those worried about a 4-link being too complicated, it's not really)
need coil-over or Shockwave style shocks,
or coil springs & reg. shocks
this below is another Chris Alston example,
clear most floors with not much cutting
or losing the back seat

I sugest you read the Chris Alston Chassis Works reference below

http://www.cachassisworks.com/stories/techcac-303_web.pdf

https://chassisengineering.com

there's the leaf spring stuff too
Calvert CalTrac is one of the most popular
you can use the mono-leaf with or without rollers on the rear
preload & beefing up the spring perches is mandatory,
if you make any real power
you can use a stock leaf too, really depends on the car
you still need to fiddle around with them too
the front end separation/lift (they like 5", my old RR worked best with 3.5" lift)
not everything can be done by phone, or your checkbook
you actually have to experiment
but getting that worked out is really critical (It ain't just a bolt-on & go deal)
so is the shocks travel, rebound & compression is also

shocks/adjustments, locations are really critical on any of them

you could do a NASCAR style trailing Arm too
sort of like the old Ford Trucks had,
needs a track or Panhard bar for locating/centering rear axle
replace the leaf with it & use coil-over
or a Shockwave style air/over shock

 

[Larrry B.]

@Budnicks

Thank you for compiling all of thar together. Something to really think over, especially after doing a Tremec swap and beating up the current suspension more.

 

[67charger383]

Old school backhalf with ladder bars. Narrowed Dana with 4.56 gears and 33x21.50r15 tires...

 

[biomedtechguy]

That Challenger looks great with the HUGELY WIDE tires, especially if it's "the look" you like...
AND
Tires that wide or close look even BETTER on a B-Body as it works with the "Coke bottle" hips on the 67s and especially the 68-70 Roadrunner, Satellite, Coronet bodies. TO ME, I've NEVER seen a better "look" of rear angle & side shots of the back end than this:

 

[biomedtechguy]

I like a hybrid of "Pro Street" and "Resto-Mod" I guess.
I NEEDED TO REPLACE MY WORN OUT FACTORY LEAF SPRINGS.
For quite some time, I started a thread or two, and I must have written over 100 posts about the rear suspension of my Roadrunner. Oh my forum family is so patient, kind, and helpful!
I had "finally" got to a point where I was certain that I was doing a triangulated 4 link, and I had some great suggestions on which one, and I had narrowed it down to RMS StreetLynx, or GERST.
When the money for the suspension was ready to spend, I had a possible last second contender, a Ladder Bar rear suspension. When I posted that, the loudest opposition was from those who know I mostly cruise around and to car shows, and my track days are few by comparison. The opposition was vehement, but what killed it dead for me was the post saying Ladder Bars would really make "regular driving" a nightmare, and as an example, on a very uneven street I may have a tire or corner lift off the ground!
I had so MANY forum members SWEAR by leaf springs, how they ran as quick as 8s and 9s because I was concerned about quarter mile performance too!! I also had NO plans for any "corner carving", but I had been having problems launching my car and I absolutely wanted a rear suspension that would make a major improvement on my track performance and launch times.
FINALLY
I wound up with the Calvert split mono leaf springs, sliders for rear spring mounts, and Assasin traction bars.
What stands out for the sudden abandonment of "what I knew" I would have-a triangulated 4 link- in exchange for what I got? Concerns and Warnings about having SO MANY ADJUSTMENTS that I'd never get it dialed in!
The appearance of my car's stance is the best it's ever been, and I'm pleasantly surprised by the dramatic difference. "How it looked" hadn't crossed my mind. The all around ride is a bit stiff or harsh, but I just had subframe connectors and torque boxes welded in, I have a completely new front suspension, and I have multiple adjustments available on the front and rear shocks, and they are only set in the general range Viking recommends.
Race track time soon, and I have a lot to dig into once I get there and after.

 

[Professor 5iveB]

I have.. I was looking for input from someone that had actually installed / driven a 4-link setup. "Better" over leaf springs is not very clear.

I love leaf springs and will be using them on my current project(Espo's xhd), but where the 4 link is superior is keeping everything in its place much better laterally, horizontally etc. 4 separate points of contact with the frame and axle..with solid bars. No comparison for serious racing.

 

[Larrry B.]

I love leaf springs and will be using them on my current project(Espo's xhd), but where the 4 link is superior is keeping everything in its place much better laterally, horizontally etc. 4 separate points of contact with the frame and axle..with solid bars. No comparison for serious racing.

It's to much vertical travel that I experience sometimes with my current leaf spring setup, no real complaints with anything else.

This was my car before I painted it. 18x9 front 19x12 rear. 345/30 and 265/40 tires. RMS front and rear suspension. Handled awesome but the roads around here suck. Car would bottom the rear shocks on the odd sharp bump. If I had of kept the car I was going to change the rear springs. The rear tires didn’t have quite enough sidewall imo. My current build has a rear tire with more sidewall and triple adjustable shocks.

View attachment 1087641

This post with a RMS rear states a similar issue, and I guess changing out the shocks / springs on either setup can help lessen that..

I've heard / read the 4-link is the better suited for more aggressive / sport / racing driving all around which I don't really doubt, but that would also sacrifice some comfort for "regular" driving with the stiffer 4-link suspension.

 

[66Satellite47]

It's to much vertical travel that I experience sometimes with my current leaf spring setup, no real complaints with anything else.



This post with a RMS rear states a similar issue, and I guess changing out the shocks / springs on either setup can help lessen that..

I've heard / read the 4-link is the better suited for more aggressive / sport / racing driving all around which I don't really doubt, but that would also sacrifice some comfort for "regular" driving with the stiffer 4-link suspension.

Consider more rear leaf clamping and different shocks that have more rebound control. Back in the day, I picked shocks that had an adjustment that was stiffer on rebound than 50/50. This worked well for me.

 

[Crash520]

I to am looking for a good spring package for my 70 RR, (I have Calvert bars on my E body with stock springs). So I spoke to one of the guys at Calvert about their split mono leaf springs, the guy there is a Mopar guy as well. I told him my car is more a street cruiser/bruiser, maybe occasional blast down the 1/4 mile, 440/5sp, his advice, best probably not buy the split mono leaf for my application, the split mono’s are a fantastic drag racing spring and they do function on the street as well no issue there at all. So I’m now having a hard time going past the Hotchkiss three leaf rear springs.

 

[Larrry B.]

Consider more rear leaf clamping and different shocks that have more rebound control. Back in the day, I picked shocks that had an adjustment that was stiffer on rebound than 50/50. This worked well for me.

Right now I have both Hotchkis leaf springs and their adjustable FOX shocks that are currently pretty firm with minimal rebound. On a quick drive through the canyons the car handles very well and will stick its landings the majority of the time, on better roads of course. It's those really uneven parts in the road(s) that slow me down, the vertical movement combined with a live axle creates more "hop" than I want to often.

Adding more clamping to the leaf springs sounds plausible and worth a try that can always be reversed if needed. I'll keep with this current setup and take it as far as I can, something else further down the line is not entirely out of the question for me though.

 

[ckessel]

LarryB, where in the state are you?

 

[Larrry B.]

LarryB, where in the state are you?

Well within L.A. County. The canyons I talk about are the roads from the 101 FWY / Mullholland Hwy out to P.C.H., between Point Mugu to roughly the 10 FWY.
I'm usually flying though anytime between Midnight to 6 a.m. as there's really no one else on the road, on most weekends I'm usually coming home when the other auto enthusiasts are heading out.

 

[ckessel]

Ok. Was wondering if you were further south in S.D. County. Fox is in El Cajon. Maybe the valving on your Fox shocks need to be changed.

 

[747mopar]

RideTech rear suspension w/coil-over
or Air - Shockwave (airbag over-shock)
is the choice for a bunch of Pro-Touring or even resto-mod guys
many swear by them, good ride & exceptional handling

mostly bolt-in kits
there's welding the upper bars tabs to the top of the housing
these are like $1300-$1400, without the Shocks
View attachment 1088882

shockwave kit, with the Shockwave airbag shocks
View attachment 1088883

here's their coil-overs, can be used instead
View attachment 1088884

A real parallel 4 link
really has the most adjustments (real fast racecars use them too)
for the street a softer end links/heims with poly or rubber bushings
(bushings vs spherical Heim joints) will not be so ridged
need a Panhard, watts-linkage or a diagonal bar between the bottom bars
to keep the rear centered
can use several styles of shocks, most common is coil-over or a Shockwave
you can get spring rates in so many different combos,
to fit your driving style or needs
most are a shorter travel suspension than a Leafspring style shock
but unless you are 4-wheeling, it can be made to work well on the street
depending on ride height & your driving style

this is an Art Morrison (Probably Camaro/Nova just for reference)
View attachment 1088890

another generic 4 link for reference I think it's a Competition Engineering
View attachment 1088891

partially why the 4 link or triangulated 4 Bar
handles so much better
control rise height much easier, almost infinite adjustments
some think the ride is too harsh, or too hard to dial in
BUT in reality, you can change spring rates easily
you can even get progressive (coil) spring rates too,
shocks are a huge deal in the combo

this is a generic short/long bar 4 link
Chris Alston (probably for a Camaro/Nova for referense)
View attachment 1088888

Also uneven triangulated shorty 4 link, but some really like it
ladder bar & a coil-over can work on the street
like the Street Lynx or

the short top & long bottom bars, 4 link
like the MagnumForce style 4-link/Pro-Link
View attachment 1088892

or like the triangulated short/long bars
Gerst 4 link below, some people love them, even some racers
View attachment 1088889

then there's a Torque Arm style
really I've only seen them made for GM stuff, it works really well
could adapt it to a MoPar pretty easily if you have fab skills
can use a measuring tape & a plumb-bob &/or a building square etc.
This is Another Chris Alstopon Offering (probably GM just for reference)
View attachment 1088885

double adjustable Ladders can work too, extremely adjustable
(for those worried about a 4-link being too complicated, it's not really)
need coil-over or Shockwave style shocks,
or coil springs & reg. shocks
this below is another Chris Alston example,
clear most floors with not much cutting
or losing the back seat
View attachment 1088886

I sugest you read the Chris Alston Chassis Works reference below

http://www.cachassisworks.com/stories/techcac-303_web.pdf

https://chassisengineering.com

there's the leaf spring stuff too
Calvert CalTrac is one of the most popular
you can use the mono-leaf with or without rollers on the rear
preload & beefing up the spring perches is mandatory,
if you make any real power
you can use a stock leaf too, really depends on the car
you still need to fiddle around with them too
the front end separation/lift (they like 5", my old RR worked best with 3.5" lift)
not everything can be done by phone, or your checkbook
you actually have to experiment
but getting that worked out is really critical (It ain't just a bolt-on & go deal)
so is the shocks travel, rebound & compression is also

shocks/adjustments, locations are really critical on any of them

you could do a NASCAR style trailing Arm too
sort of like the old Ford Trucks had,
needs a track or Panhard bar for locating/centering rear axle
replace the leaf with it & use coil-over
or a Shockwave style air/over shock

My problem with most of the kits is I don't trust them for long term usage, that Magnumforce one however looks pretty solid as well as the Art Morrison 4 link. Most have those small tubular mounts for the shocks and upper triangulated links, just doesn't seem like much for what it does. I keep on coming back to the torque arm, it looks like an easier fit for the B Body and they work really well. I also have to except the fact that with my kids growing up garage time is getting harder to come by, might have to settle for leafs just because I don't have time to do the others.

 

[Jeff Brundage]

It's to much vertical travel that I experience sometimes with my current leaf spring setup, no real complaints with anything else.



This post with a RMS rear states a similar issue, and I guess changing out the shocks / springs on either setup can help lessen that..

I've heard / read the 4-link is the better suited for more aggressive / sport / racing driving all around which I don't really doubt, but that would also sacrifice some comfort for "regular" driving with the stiffer 4-link suspension.

 

[Jeff Brundage]

The problem I had with the rms suspension wasn’t that it was too stiff, it was too soft. Easily changed with a stiffer coil spring. The lack of sidewall I had didn’t help either. If you’re really after ride quality and handling, triangulated 4 link is the way to go. RMS was nice stuff. I have also used Art Morrison stuff in other cars and it’s excellent also. Either of those brands are going to last. No matter how much money you throw at a leaf spring setup you will never get the adjustability and performance of a coil over properly matched for your car and driving taste.

 

[Larrry B.]

The problem I had with the rms suspension wasn’t that it was too stiff, it was too soft. Easily changed with a stiffer coil spring. The lack of sidewall I had didn’t help either. If you’re really after ride quality and handling, triangulated 4 link is the way to go. RMS was nice stuff. I have also used Art Morrison stuff in other cars and it’s excellent also. Either of those brands are going to last. No matter how much money you throw at a leaf spring setup you will never get the adjustability and performance of a coil over properly matched for your car and driving taste.

Thank you, you've told me specifically what I was asking. I've looked at both RMS and Art Morrison, if I'm still driving like I am now that could be a possibility in the not to distant future.

 

[biomedtechguy]

I've looked at both RMS and Art Morrison

FWIW, I was really on the fence between RMS and GERST, so although the forum coerced me into split mono leaf springs, IF I were looking at RMS, like you, you may want to consider GERST.

 

[747mopar]

I recently replaced my daily driver with a Cooper S and after driving that little booger for a few weeks I'm really wanting to mix things up on the Charger, damn does it handle nice! I was leaning heavy towards just replacing the leaves but I may just hold off, get another summer out of it as is and tear into it next winter. I'll likely do the torque arm but will check into a few other options as well.

Keep the input coming especially from those who have already installed and racked up some miles on them.

 

[biomedtechguy]

I have looked at my wife's 65 GTO a number of times and thought "I'd like to lower it and make it a corner carver" but for what we do with our cars, it's more appropriate to go the 1/4 mile and cruiser/boulevard bruiser route. The GOAT has some Quick Performance and UMI goodies under it already, and a TKO600 in the box awaiting installation.
The rear suspension layout on it is basically a 4 link from the factory, and I'm converting it to coilovers in the rear as soon as the new rear axle housing is installed.
Good luck to all who go either way, corner carving or max traction in a straight line. The great thing is we have a LOT of aftermarket support available.