Let's talk suspension

[robinsonwr]

I want some input from you guys on getting a good street/strip setup for my 66' Satellite. It will mostly be a street car but I would like the thing to hook too. I thought about going mostly with a street wise suspension but the drag racer in me is not wanting that to happen. This is my first MOPAR build so I am uneducated when it comes to front suspension techniques. What torsion bars and shocks should I run to get good weight transfer and driving characteristics? I have heard some say six cylinder bars on the street are not feasible. My car is an original 361 big block car and now has an aluminum headed 440/512 that should make around 600 HP at the flywheel. The transmission is a TCI street fighter 727 with around a 3000 stall.

The rear I have been looking at the Rancho 9000 because of their ruggid disposition and adjustability. I have been told the Rancho 99118 shocks are for stock ride heigth is this true? I am unsure about HD springs or SS springs and their uses. I was leaning toward HD springs and an adjustable pinion snubber for the 8.750 rearend. Will my 7/8" rear swaybar help or impede traction? I do not want a dedicated track car so please take that in to account. This will be a stock appearing, 14" wheel, and hubcap wearing 66' Satellite that aspires to be a sleeper. Yes, it will boast a little tire of about 10.2 section width and 26 inches tall on a 14 x 8" wheel from Stockton. The gear will be a mild 3:23 with sure grip for now and maybe in the future a 3:55. I know you guys have more MOPARs than I can fathem so please indulge your expertise it will be greatly appreciated, thanks.

 

[robinsonwr]

OK, maybe give me just some pointers on front suspension on a street/strip car. What torsion bars are best for street driving and limited track duty? I have been reading some older post on rear springs. I think I am figuring that piece out or aleast where I want to go anyway. I need help on the front suspension.

 

[moparpoor]

On a b body I wouldn't use the slant 6 bars.small block bars work well.A good adjustable shock and limited travel to 3" rebound.Good suspension parts that move freely.If not take apart and lube generously.Alignment is a big deal with the mopars,find someone that can do a good neutral alignment.

Rear suspension you can get away with SS springs and pinion snubber.If not go with caltracs or ladder bar.

 

[Budnicks]

If you want the best of both worlds, you can go to Tubular upper & lower control arms & adjustable or oversize strut rod will also help, front sway bars will impede your upward &/or rearward weight transfer some, but will make the car handle much better on the street, you can always disconnect or loosen them at the track, some Competition Engineering Drag Links or Calvert/CalTrac bars, shocks & springs, will also aid in traction & moving the car forward well, both can work well on the street if properly adjusted... I_M_H_O Small block sway bars would be the absolute lightest you should go on the street, the 6 cylinder bars will give you great weight transfer but, if you don't want to be bottoming out every were & if you want to maintain any handling characteristics, go with the std. size or a set of small block torsion bars... It's not part of your suspension really but, if your looking for quick standing start acceleration the 3.23:1 -3.55:1 are not ideal, they are decent for the street but not for a performance aspect, a 3.73:1 gear {or as low as a 3.91:1 gear if you don't do too much freeway driving, or go to a taller rear tire} would be a decent compromise & still help to get the car moving easier... Good front disc. brake upgrade would also be a great idea... Sub frame connectors will also help to stiffen the car some... Relocate your battery to the passenger side rear of the cars trunk, the weight transfer & handling will improve because of better weight distribution... If you want the car to have good street manors, you will no doubt probably sacrifice some performance on the track, it's worth it if you plan on driving the car allot, you need to weigh the benefits pros & cons of the driveability vs overall track performance... I have done all the things mentioned on several street/strip B-Bodied 68-70 RR's & Chargers now & have done very well on the track also, my last old 68 RR went best of 9.77 @ 135mph N/A & 8.58 @ 156 with a 300hp shot of N20 with a high hp stroker engine w/3.73:1 gears & a manual shifted 727 trans. & 3800 stall converter & was very streetable, I live in the mountains on some windy a$$ roads, so to me the drivability is just as important as the track performance... Good luck

 

[Endangered Species]

I agree with Budnicks, I would not go with the 6 cyl torsion bars, I would go with the small block bars.
As far as a street strip it depends on how much money you want to spend. The best is getting a good set of double adjustable front shocks but if you're on a budget then I would go with the Calvert 90/10's in the front.
Front end travel is king! For drag racing you want between 4-5 inches of travel, how ever if you have the car set up that way then you are going to be too low in the front end to run it on the street... Especially if you have have a deep oil pan.
As far as the rear goes, I would go with teh Cal Tacs. Ladder bars or 4 link are best for drag racing but they are expensive and don't have the give the springs have. With the Cal Tracs I would get a good set of double adjustable rear shock, but if you're on a budget then the Rancho RS9000 (Calvert) single adjustable rear shocks work very well

 

[Propwash]

Great info guys...answered my questions as well

 

[Budnicks]

2 for 1

Great info guys...answered my questions as well

You very welcome, Great news a 2 for 1 thread....

 

[robinsonwr]

Budniks,
My 66' Satellite has weld in sub frame connectors and torque boxes. I like the idea of the small block torsion bars. Who can I buy a set from and in what size diameters do they come in? I have a rear sway bar on the car now will that impede performance or can it stay?

 

[Budnicks]

torsion bar

Budniks,
My 66' Satellite has weld in sub frame connectors and torque boxes. I like the idea of the small block torsion bars. Who can I buy a set from and in what size diameters do they come in? I have a rear sway bar on the car now will that impede performance or can it stay?

Try Just Suspension they are like $200 or less, or try Mancini Racing for a set of Mopar Performance bars... I think it's like .88" diameter for a 340ci B-body Belvedere/Satellite small block torsion bar {66 Satellite might be different diameters, I don't have that info in front of me}, which is also the same diameter for the std. non performance cars 383ci engine also, that's what the service manual for 1968 says anyway... I have run a rear sway bar with no issues that I could notice, if anything, as long as you don't use S/S springs, then I would say no sway bar...

 

[robinsonwr]

Try Just Suspension they are like $200 or less, or try Mancini Racing for a set of Mopar Performance bars... I think it's like .88" diameter for a 340ci B-body Belvedere/Satellite small block torsion bar {66 Satellite might be different diameters, I don't have that info in front of me}, which is also the same diameter for the std. non performance cars 383ci engine also, that's what the service manual for 1968 says anyway... I have run a rear sway bar with no issues that I could notice, if anything, as long as you don't use S/S springs, then I would say no sway bar...

I will definately look into that diameter bar. My car originally was a 361 big block car so it probably has those bars already but need to be replaced. That is great information about the rear sway bar. I will probably run some HD springs out back.

 

[67 B-body]

Mine are factory stock SB 318 torsion bars,,, 67 Satellite now a 446. Would you like me to throw the calipers on one and get a measurment? I had to tighten up the jack bolts to get the ride height I liked, but now I'm concidering loosening them back up some to get that front end to jump up a bit more! I foot brake my car, so I don't get that slinging lift out of the front end like a trans brake car would! I spin like hell through second gear when I launch on the road, and haven't been to a track yet to see how it handles, but I think I will still need to loosen the front end a bit.

 

[383man]

I can tell you what I use on my 63 Sport Fury street/strip car. Basically my suspension is all stock. I rebuilt all of the suspension with new stock parts. I use the factory 383 torsion bars with Comp Engineering 90/10 drag shocks up front everything else is stock up front. Out back I use 3400 lb SS springs I bought from Mancini and I have the longer C-body rear shocks. Thats it ! I have frame connectors on the car with a 6 point roll bar and I use Hoosier 30 x 9 radial slicks. Best 60 ft is a 1.50 with 10.70's @ 125 my best et's so far. My 60 is not the greatest but its not bad either as it is about average for a 10.70 car that is a 99% street car raced thru the pipes on pump. I enjoy it as it drives very nice and has no problems at all and did not cost me an arm and a leg. Simple and effective thats what I like. Ron

 

[Elvad]

90/10's and small block torsion bars and no sway bar should work really well. Remember that Mopar leaf spring rear suspension is the best thing there is for drag racing. Hemi Dart anyone? You will really enjoy the 3:23's on the street, Big Block Mopar's like to work and pull crazy hard with highway gears. Some cars will get in front of you off the line and then you will just blow right past them.

 

[robinsonwr]

90/10's and small block torsion bars and no sway bar should work really well. Remember that Mopar leaf spring rear suspension is the best thing there is for drag racing. Hemi Dart anyone? You will really enjoy the 3:23's on the street, Big Block Mopar's like to work and pull crazy hard with highway gears. Some cars will get in front of you off the line and then you will just blow right past them.

I really think the 3:23 gearing will not be that much of an issue for the amount of torque the Mopar's are famous for. Like you said it will be street freindly but will still have affectiveness. Small tire with 500" + engine making just shy of 600hp at the flywheel big fun for the street. I believe if I get the suspension worked out 11's will not be a problem. My reasoning is a few years back I had a 3.08 geared 3300lb 79' Camaro with a pump gas 496 and 30" tall ET Streets went 11.69 @ 120 mph. My Chrysler will have more grunt and more gear than that so expect similar performance or better. I do not feel that it is asking to much. Yes, it will be an oddball combination that strives for the best of both worlds.