Most significant suspension upgrades, thoughts?

[Sixpactogo]

Hi sorry thanks again. When springs hits here in Ma. I will give it a try.. thanks again.

View attachment 1800971

View attachment 1800972

That is exactly how mine looked before adding the 1/4" spacer. I thought it would have been an easy fix for Peter. They could have just made that ear 1/4" thicker before welding it on. Guess they were more worried about the box hitting the headers than shaft alignment. Peter did tell me that the coupler could handle the angle but I felt the shim was the best choice.

 

[Kern Dog]

What does the mounting flange of the Borgensen box look like compared to a stock box? It must have different mounting pad heights.
Doug

 

[Bzzzz]

I've built a fair amount of frame connectors. In my experience the best thing you can do? Split the floor and weld them completely to the floor. I don't buy the weld the tube all the way to the front rail in post #24 video. If it was a big enough concern the crossing at the torsion bar X memer to rail/subframe connection could be plated. "Chinzy sheet metal" is what an entire unibody is constructed from. The key are bends and shapes creating strong structures. Bolting on control arms and strut rods does little to address the issue. After frame connectors Tires, sway bars, and shocks will have more influnence than anything else. Want to make it really stiff? Put a full cage in it. Though my B body is a drag car, stiff is stiff. It's has 12 years of being dropped from wheel stands as high as 5 feet. The door gaps and outer sheet metal are still laser straight. There are no cracks anywhere. Dead stock upper and lower control arms. It also has the aftermarket rear suspension components attached to the stock rear rails. Nothing moves around there either even with over 700lbft/900+hp.
Doug

was wondering what size of tubing did you use ? And if you had pics of your install ?

 

[dvw]

I'm assuming you are asking about the frame connectors. 2×3" tubing. Iused 1/8" but .090" wall would be plenty. Theses are the only pics I have on my phone.
Doug

 

[Derwud]

My Thoughts, a little late, but here you go..

Firm Feel may sound nice, but they still use the old Steering Boxes and their Upper Arms like QA-1 are not adjustable, but do have Bushings if that is important to you.

Borgensen is the way to go, but, be careful on mounting.

As for Suspension, to me there are only 3 sources for good suspension.. Hotchkis, Bergman Autocraft, and Speedtech Performance (Yes out of my league too)

Now if you call Peter at Bergman he sells Borgensen and Hydratech (Hydroboost), he also makes a no cut coupler for the Borgensen box and sells a complete hose kit for the Conversion..

As for the what is most important.. Adjustable Upper Arms, Front and Rear Sway Bars, and Shocks (other than stock replacements or KYB's) less important but worth it, LARGER front Torsion Bars and Rear Springs, Boxed Lower Arms with better Bushings, Adjustable Strut Rods. I just added the Rear Sway bar to my Wagon and DAMN, she is 100% better (Still need to do Upper Arms and Front Shocks).

Here is my Car with the Full Hotchkis TVS system.

 

[Bzzzz]

I'm assuming you are asking about the frame connectors. 2×3" tubing. Iused 1/8" but .090" wall would be plenty. Theses are the only pics I have on my phone.
Doug

View attachment 1827463

View attachment 1827464

View attachment 1827465

View attachment 1827466

Yessir that’s what I was talking about. Did you weld those through the floor or to the bottom of the floors?
Awesome car btw love the attention to detail!

 

[dvw]

Easier to weld from the top.
Doug

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

My Thoughts, a little late, but here you go..

Firm Feel may sound nice, but they still use the old Steering Boxes and their Upper Arms like QA-1 are not adjustable, but do have Bushings if that is important to you.

Borgensen is the way to go, but, be careful on mounting.

As for Suspension, to me there are only 3 sources for good suspension.. Hotchkis, Bergman Autocraft, and Speedtech Performance (Yes out of my league too)

Now if you call Peter at Bergman he sells Borgensen and Hydratech (Hydroboost), he also makes a no cut coupler for the Borgensen box and sells a complete hose kit for the Conversion..

As for the what is most important.. Adjustable Upper Arms, Front and Rear Sway Bars, and Shocks (other than stock replacements or KYB's) less important but worth it, LARGER front Torsion Bars and Rear Springs, Boxed Lower Arms with better Bushings, Adjustable Strut Rods. I just added the Rear Torsion bar to my Wagon and DAMN, she is 100% better (Still need to do Upper Arms and Front Shocks).

Here is my Car with the Full Hotchkis TVS system.
View attachment 1827483

wait, you did the Hotchkis full TVS system and still haven't done upper arms or front shocks?
Do you have a photo of the rear mounted torsion bars? Do these replace the rear leaf springs? I hadn't heard of these.

 

[Derwud]

wait, you did the Hotchkis full TVS system and still haven't done upper arms or front shocks?
Do you have a photo of the rear mounted torsion bars? Do these replace the rear leaf springs? I hadn't heard of these.

I have 2 cars, the Charger is full TVS and the Wagon is getting a more conservative mix of parts.

Sorry, corrected to read Rear Sway Bar..

 

[Bzzzz]

Easier to weld from the top.
Doug

Thank you !

 

[Unkle Krusty]

I have been bolting on the four new Bilstein shocks.
The rear was simple. The front could use some instructions, and that would help. I studied them for a while, and made my own decisions about installing them. Went to the Bilstein site, but could not find anything usefull.

 

[Dennis H]

Hotchkis is quality. Never did come to a consensus if this is installed correctly. The oher way scraped everything. Knocked the Zerk fittings off on first drive. No noticeable improvement in handling.

 

[Derwud]

Hotchkis is quality. Never did come to a consensus if this is installed correctly. The oher way scraped everything. Knocked the Zerk fittings off on first drive. No noticeable improvement in handling.

View attachment 1827788

Yeah, not sure who is their sticker guy, but he ain't right.. My Rear Sway Bar stickers are upside down.. Yes placement of the zerk fittings are dumb..

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Hotchkis is quality. Never did come to a consensus if this is installed correctly. The oher way scraped everything. Knocked the Zerk fittings off on first drive. No noticeable improvement in handling.

View attachment 1827788

yep, that's the correct orientation Dennis. I had mine label facing up with tube down and John (our buddy) saw it and flipped it around like you have it so the middle went OVER the rad middle support like you have it there with the label upside down and now everything is tucked up nice. I previously did not have a front sway bar, so my car felt improved. You already had a factory sway bar prior to this, correct?