texas69bee
Well-Known Member
I have my preload set at .025 but I think the lifters on cylinder #1 or #3 is a little to loud. Does the lifter have to bleed down to readjust or can I just back it off and reset to .040?
Lifter pre load
- Thread starter texas69bee
- Start date
miller
Well-Known Member
Adjustable rockers?
I'd say yes. Personally, I prefer pre-load on all tappets be the same. If you can, get a thread to thread measurement, off the adjuster. That will tell you how much added pre-load for a half turn, full turn, and so on.
After re-setting to the pre-load you want...depress a handful of the tappets, just to be sure none will hit bottom, that you have useable working movement in the tappets.
I'd say yes. Personally, I prefer pre-load on all tappets be the same. If you can, get a thread to thread measurement, off the adjuster. That will tell you how much added pre-load for a half turn, full turn, and so on.
After re-setting to the pre-load you want...depress a handful of the tappets, just to be sure none will hit bottom, that you have useable working movement in the tappets.
texas69bee
Well-Known Member
Yes on the adjustable rockers. One more question before I go diving in to readjust. I'm still using 50w break in oil. Should I reduce to 30w first before making any other moves?
And I had also planned on readjusting them all, thanks!
And I had also planned on readjusting them all, thanks!
miller
Well-Known Member
50w break in oil?? Just asking why. I would have said to use the 30w for break in.
But, in a way, will add it depends on all the clearances the motor has. Even so, 50w would have a harder time flowing though the tappets. Wonder if that could be part of your noise?
I've run 50w in a few of my motors...but only after break in, and let's say 'loose as a goose'.
I'd say yes on changing to 30w first, and run it for a while to see how it acts.
Back to your adjusting pre-load...are you pretty sure all are set the same? As long as...don't back off the adjusters. Simply figure the 'target pre-load' you want, via the number of turns on the adjusters. Do one, or two, and check the rocker arm swing for any issues. If good, just re-set the adjusters using the number of turns. Could easily only be part of a full turn. Be accurate!
not so famous bob
Well-Known Member
if you`re talking about hyd lifter, why not just go thru the adjusting procedure tightening them down till there is resistance on the push rod, (no clearance) and then a little more-3/4 to 1 turn and lock them down ?
texas69bee
Well-Known Member
50w was suggested by HughesEngines. Of coarse when I started this it was 100deg outside. Yes, I'm 100% positive that they are all set the same. 20 threads per inch. 1/2 turn =.025
Not so famous Bob... That's exactly what I was asking but I was wanting to know if the lifter has to bleed down first.
So here's what I'm thinking... Change the oil to 30w, listen for noise. If still there then readjust all lifters to 3/4 turn. That should give me .0375 preload.
Not so famous Bob... That's exactly what I was asking but I was wanting to know if the lifter has to bleed down first.
So here's what I'm thinking... Change the oil to 30w, listen for noise. If still there then readjust all lifters to 3/4 turn. That should give me .0375 preload.
IQ52
Well-Known Member
It is always best to know who's lifters you are using and what they recommend. Crane actually recommends that you adjust all the preload out so there is some lash and then let the lifter rest for 2 minutes so the lifter can bleed up, then set the preload. Some Comp cams lifters are to be used at .000"-.008" preload and other Comp lifters should be set at .030"-.040".
Very simple. rotate the pushrod with your fingers until resistance is felt. Try it a few times to get the hang of it. Depending on adjuster size 5/16, 3/8 are 24 threads per inch. One turn is .0416", 1/2 turn .0208" right in the range it needs to be. Even if you had 7/16" adjusters which are 20 threads per inch as stated above the range between 1/2 and one turn would be .025"-.050". That being said 3/4 turn will put you almost in the middle of the spec. Plenty close enough. Set it, forget it.
Doug
Doug
IQ52
Well-Known Member
I suppose I live on a different planet, but for myself I basically never run any more than .005-.010 preload on any hydraulic lifter. So at that point I think, what is the difference between the hydraulic and a solid and the hydraulic goes on the shelf and the solid goes in. Sometimes it's a solid cam and sometimes it's solid lifters on the hydraulic cam.
lewtot184
Well-Known Member
if your using a standard mopar hydraulic tappet set the preload between .040"-.060". that will be between 1 and 1 1/2 turns on a 3/8"-24 adjuster. factory preload was around .090". plunger travel will probably measure .200"+.
miller
Well-Known Member
Wow...guess I'm getting old, behind the times, or something like that. When I first started building stock motors, break in was done using straight 20w. 50 or 60w was used on full blown drag motors!
dieseldazzle
Well-Known Member
Solid lifters on a hydraulic cam? School me here...
Way back when,I worked at a Chevy dealership & learnt a few tricks of the trade; cams or head work we just set rocker nuts with 2-1/2 threads showing above the top of nut & we buttoned it up. Only had to remove 1 v.cover to stop a ticking noise. I agree with notsofamous.
IQ52
Well-Known Member
One it a lot of times over the years, even back in the 1960's with these rocker arms.
Starting at post #27 is a discussion and results of going to solid lifters on a hydraulic cam.
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/pops-440-is-near-ready-to-dyno.64775/page-2
dieseldazzle
Well-Known Member
So it is as easy as installing the solid lifters and setting lash to .006 ??
I'm using comp cams rockers and they are ball/ball end 3/8 moly pushrods that have oil holes....ok to use?
Lunati flat tappet hydraulic cam.
Will I be ok?
I'm using comp cams rockers and they are ball/ball end 3/8 moly pushrods that have oil holes....ok to use?
Lunati flat tappet hydraulic cam.
Will I be ok?
lewtot184
Well-Known Member
solid lifter push rods are longer.
dieseldazzle
Well-Known Member
Well besides that....it's no problem huh?
IQ52
Well-Known Member
Yeah, sort of, if you are careful. I've not hurt an engine yet doing it.
The opening ramps on hydraulic cams are designed for no lash. They will tolerate some lash but not a great deal.
.006" hot is as loose as I ever set them and I feel better at .004". Iron heads that's not so much of a problem. With aluminum heads .006" hot is sometimes .000" cold. And sometimes some of the valves are open when you try to start a cold, aluminum headed engine. I don't recommend solid lifters on a hydraulic cam with aluminum heads. Aluminum block and aluminum heads, not good as all the valves may be open as much as .010" when the engine is cold.
texas69bee
Well-Known Member
This is the answer I was looking for when a lifter is already full.
I understand why ya would want as little preload as possible but if you are using something that has a preload like comps lifters with .000-.008, aren't they going to be just as noisy as a solid?
IQ52
Well-Known Member
Is .000" lash going to be as noisy as .020" lash? Is .020" lash going to be as noisy as .032" lash? I'll leave that up to you.
If you are using a high performance low preload lifter, is your concern power or noise? They have lifters designed to be quiet, the Pro-Magnum isn't going to be.
If you are using a high performance low preload lifter, is your concern power or noise? They have lifters designed to be quiet, the Pro-Magnum isn't going to be.
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