Do any off you guy's run a locked out distributor on the street, and if so, what stall convertor are you running, if automtic off course. I might try it on my engine since it likes a lot of initial timing.
Locked out distributor
- Thread starter Joske2
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lewtot184
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locked out distributors can break starters. if you have an MSD use a start retard.
I'm running full advance 38 degrees on a mildly modified 426 Hemi. Using a high torque mini starter with a 2500 RPM stall converter. No advance retard. No issues in 10 years.
Have you considered hooking it up to manifold vacuum, to give you max vacuum advance after the engine starts?
How about keeping your centrifugal advance, blocking your vacuum advance. Set your max advance to the 36 you want. Put a lighter spring on the centrifugal so that your all in just off idle.
Yes, but it has a MSD billet pro distributor, so no vacuum advance. They don't have that for Mopar engines.
Good idea, but it has already the lightest springs, and even with the FBO 10° limiter bushing, i could set it at 25 and end up with 35 total.
On 25 it will not idle , or i have to give it much more idle, but then the carb settings are no good anymore, even with the idle-eze full open.
I tried to start it with 35 initial,no problem, i even tried with 40, but thats the limit.
Mine is locked at 38 total. I have no trouble starting either. The only issue I have is it really doesn't want to idle good until the temperature starts to come up. The engine would actually like a little more advance than the 38 I have in it, because at 38 total it will idle good in less than 2 minutes.
Crackedback
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If it will start, no kickback, when hot locked out, you can run it that way.
Hey how do you lock out the timing? I am running a MSD Pro Billet with the 6AL. I am detonating so I put a 14 degree bushing in and slowed my advance as much as I can with the heavy springs. No longer detonating but idle at start is difficult to maintain cold even with the manual choke I added. Low rpm idle is not great in gear.
Its in the MSD manual, https://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/100/121/121-85551.pdf
FBO sells 14° and 10° bushings, they work great.
you need alot of initial timing with these cams.
Yup I got the 14 degree bushing in there now!
Crackedback
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I sell the 10 and 14 degree MSD bushings for a $10 each.
Been making them for years. Started on a hillbilly lathe... drill, mandrel and a file held by a vise. Now they are run on a CNC.
JMO, if the car runs better at idle with more initial timing and the starter will handle it, dial it in. Auto cars can be very sensitive to initial timing, especially larger cammed engines as noted. Really tight converters don't help!
Rob
Been making them for years. Started on a hillbilly lathe... drill, mandrel and a file held by a vise. Now they are run on a CNC.
JMO, if the car runs better at idle with more initial timing and the starter will handle it, dial it in. Auto cars can be very sensitive to initial timing, especially larger cammed engines as noted. Really tight converters don't help!
Rob
Thanks Rob, yes I got my 14 degree bushing from you but I might now need the 10 degree. Oh and that bushing was dead nuts 14 degrees too!
Crackedback
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Cojohnso1
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I have wondered why MSD has not made a variable distributor? Especially with so many boost and fuel options? Typically a high compression or high boost motor likes more timing at idel. But then asks for timing to be retarded as pressure increases. A poor man's variable timing kit? I know there are some serious variables to hurtle. But a locked down distributor that controls ignition timing electronically? Timing curves not only adjustable. But a computer could actually detect and adjust?
Of course the big boys would be interested in variable valve timing. That would require a timing chain redesign? Ummm.
Of course the big boys would be interested in variable valve timing. That would require a timing chain redesign? Ummm.
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