Lookie what $5000 buys you....

[1 Wild R/T]

Water pump and housing are on, the pulleys are painted and ready.

View attachment 1075130 View attachment 1075131

I see a 73 & up style pump....

 

[Kern Dog]

Yeah....
Back in 2001 when I swapped a 440 into the red car, I thought I was going to be able to use the 318 radiator so I kept the water pump housing that came with that 1977 440. The radiator was deemed to be inadequate so I ordered a Griffin with the same outlet positions.
As is the theme of this project, I'm "repurposing" as many parts as possible.

 

[Kern Dog]

I changed to Dakota Digital gauges in 2015 and even now, Ginger only reads 43511.
That is really sad...I haven't even driven that car 500 miles in 5 years!

I thought about this again and it seemed odd. Me only driving about 400 miles from November 2015 until January of this year?
No. That isn't right.
I remember now. When I set up the odometer in the Dakota Digital gauges, I didn't notice that they use a SIX digit layout. I should have punched in 043017. Instead, I punched in 43017 and had to put a zero after that to complete the step. I didn't notice the screw up right away and when I had, I was past the point where it could be reset. In late October 2019 when I was adding the Classic Auto Air kit, I sent the "brain box" to Dakota Digital to have the odometer reset. I've driven almost 400 miles since then. Before then, I was racking up 1/10th of a mile for every actual mile.
Anyhow.....

 

[Kern Dog]

I modified a coil bracket to place the coil in an otherwise unused spot.

 

[ckessel]

Good spot for the coil. Will get some air across it for cooling.

 

[CoronetDarter]

The air cleaner seems to fit.

That must be because of the LOW deck of the 383.
I am using the Performer RPM on both cars and on Ginger, I had to have a dropped base made for the air cleaner to clear.

I was thinking the same thing because I also need a drop base on the Coronet, and it still barely clears. I'm solving the issue by getting a 6 pak hood.

 

[Barracuda Jake]

1) if you replace the rail, all the way back to the torsion member, it is no longer compressed a bit rearward
2) mock up all front sheet meta (doors, fenders, hood, lower valence, grille and lights ) with a minimal amount of tack welds and screws holding your repair together
3) adjust your repair to achieve near perfect alignment..... "bring your repair (rail and inner fender) to the outer panels"
4) yes, fenders flex, but when bolted all the way around they get stiff and find a happy place
5) the hood aligned with the cowl will dictate the front being square..... hood stops on top of radiator support should be equal
6)the more you mock up, the easier it is.......... it all only fits one way
7)break it down and weld it up

yes.... everyone over thinks it
the outer metal dictates everything, starting with the doors and hood

the nice thing about collision work is, you can't really make it any worse....... and you'll be surprised how easily it all falls in line

you won't be happy paying someone else to have the fun

This seems very zen like. It brought a smile to my face because it reminded me of my friends older brother talking about playing pool. "You just need to hit the ball where it wants to go".

 

[eldubb440]

This seems very zen like. It brought a smile to my face because it reminded me of my friends older brother talking about playing pool. "You just need to hit the ball where it wants to go".

yes...... just remember, the fenders, doors, and hood only want to be in one place. You set up the inner structure to meet them where they sit. KD was on his way to the frame shop, and never had to go

 

[Barracuda Jake]

yes...... just remember, the fenders, doors, and hood only want to be in one place. You set up the inner structure to meet them where they sit. KD was on his way to the frame shop, and never had to go

In essence what you are saying is the "whole" car is the jig. The doors, the fenders, the inner fenders, the hood, k frame, pretty much the doors plus the entire front of the car. I am going to re-read this again to find where you make a case for replacing both frame rails, inner fenders, shock towers and radiator support instead of just 1/2 i.e. one frame rail, inner fender, shock tower, and radiator support. Once again this is great information and I really appreciate it.

 

[eldubb440]

In essence what you are saying is the "whole" car is the jig. The doors, the fenders, the inner fenders, the hood, k frame, pretty much the doors plus the entire front of the car. I am going to re-read this again to find where you make a case for replacing both frame rails, inner fenders, shock towers and radiator support instead of just 1/2 i.e. one frame rail, inner fender, shock tower, and radiator support. Once again this is great information and I really appreciate it.

post 174-186

 

[Barracuda Jake]

post 174-186

Ok. I read all that the first time but the jest of it didn't sink in entirely. I turns out the entire inner front clip of that 66 Coronet is completely rust free and available. That option is looking better and better. I also have a line on a 1968 Satellite front end and hood that could complete my jig. Once again thank you.

 

[eldubb440]

Ok. I read all that the first time but the jest of it didn't sink in entirely. I turns out the entire inner front clip of that 66 Coronet is completely rust free and available. That option is looking better and better. I also have a line on a 1968 Satellite front end and hood that could complete my jig. Once again thank you.

get a straight, solid, front section....... start a build thread, and we can walk you through it ....... that's why we are all here!

sorry KD.......we borrowed your thread, and put it to good use

 

[1 Wild R/T]

get a straight, solid, front section....... start a build thread, and we can walk you through it ....... that's why we are all here!

sorry KD.......we borrowed your thread, and put it to good use

Thats why it exists.. Helping motivate & inform other victims...

 

[eldubb440]

Thats why it exists.. Helping motivate & inform other victims...

there's just something about watching other people's suffering

 

[Kern Dog]

I have nothing against chrome but since the air cleaner was the only chrome on the engine......

I decided to sandblast and paint it satin black.

I think that it looks better this way.
Continuity, right ?

 

[Habib]

Air cleaner looks.much better black. Chrome is for chevys. It's a cheap look imo. I'd still prefer to see a Air cleaner from Ma. Dual snorkel or unsilenced even. But it's your vehicle. Do as you wish.

 

[Kern Dog]

I do like the black wrinkle finished unsilenced air cleaners but this one was FREE. I don't recall where I got it. I sure didn't buy it new.

 

[Kern Dog]

In between other things, a little progress was made today.
Yesterday I went to a local speed shop to check on a fuel pump. I have an Edelbrock pump here that has a pretty stiff spring in it. It seemed like it was firmer than it should be... like something was bent or binding. The new one at the store felt the same so I didn't buy the new one.

The outer diameter of the pump is close to the block. Oddly, a Holley pump here is smaller in size. Maybe that means that this one pumps a greater volume?
Anyhow....It is in place along with a stock pump push rod.
About 2 years ago as I was prepping to install a Classic Auto Air kit in Ginger the red car, I replaced the radiator. The one I pulled from the red car is going in this one. It worked fine, I just replaced it because I wanted the correct hose nipple locations and the ability to mount a fan shroud.

I made a hodge-podge type shroud for this radiator before.

 

[Kern Dog]

This is a Griffin circa 2001. It came with no mounting flanges so I had a shop weld some on them. They aren't even close to stock appearing but they work. I have read that it is advised to close all gaps between the radiator and the core support, to effectively make ALL air go through the radiator instead of around it.

I put some adhesive backed foam to fill the gaps.

The tank is close to the battery try but does clear.

The grungy looking alternator looks out of place on a fresh engine but right at home with how the car looks. I'm conflicted....I may swap in a rebuilt one.

 

[Kern Dog]

I have a rebuilt heater/defroster unit that I can install but for now, I might loop the fittings on the water pump housing.
I sandblasted the fan clutch....I found one in the stash that is OEM and still functional. I have several fans to choose from. Some 5 blade, some 7. I've ran both on Ginger and haven't noticed a difference.
Next is the tricky part....Header fitment. I have a set of 1 7/8" Hooker headers in good shape. They are scratched but not dented. They may fit, they may not. I'll only know when I get the car on the lift and give it a try. The 2" TTIs in Ginger slip in rather easily with the motor mount bolts out and by lifting the engine up a little. I had a set of these Hooker headers in Ginger way back when I first swapped to a 440 in 2001. If I recall, the right side fit okay but the left rattled against the torsion bar. That was with a 440. This 383 is narrower and shorter which may actually help fitment.
I put Fast Ratio Idler and Pitman arms on this car last Summer when I was doing suspension and steering work. That may pose a clearance problem. If I have to do some slight cutting to reroute a pipe, it is no big deal. These headers were free. If it requires extensive work, I'd be torn between three options: 1) Using some stock Magnum exhaust manifolds...2)Buying new headers...3)Changing to regular ratio Idler and Pitman arms.
I don't have any Magnum manifolds. I have low performance log manifolds. I have another set of headers but they are 2" and certainly too big for a 360 HP 383.
I do have several standard type steering arms. To use them, I lose a bit of that heavier steering feel and fast response. Not a huge deal, just a slight disappointment.