Looking for 727 rebuild/upgrade parts ideas.

[Geoff 2]

It is not a high HP engine that you have. No special parts needed for that level. Next in importance after good quality clutch plates & bands is a shift kit, such as the Transgo. Make sure clutch & band clearances are correct.

 

[Boris7K]

Is there any way to tell if I have a 6" or 6.25" Rear Band by the Transmission ID#? I have a PK4028424 transmission built on 3/14/76. Would like to order and have the parts to rebuild on hand before tearing into this, and hopefully get it back together before losing bits and pieces.

 

[Lefty71]

I think.... not 100% positive, that 6.25 rear drum is only very late model, like 1991 and later. Many application lists say 6" drum (band) for 62-89.

 

[dvw]

If the rear band looks good use it. Seldom do you need to replace it. It holds in R and 1st gear braking only. I've repalced one in the last 10 years.
Doug

 

[fj5gtx]

Cope puts reverse manual valve bodies in just about everything, thinking might as well convert to a 6 speed manual if its not a race car.

Putting a small block trans behind a 440 is an effort, and I just don't like drilling the case for the starter setup. The adapter isn't SFI rated either, and likely you have to modify the trans tunnel... and then there is the trans mount. I helped a buddy install a 518 in a 66 dart, we used my mig welder for half a day on that one. The 518 would only last him a couple years, he was running it behind a 300hp magnum mopar crate engine. I think the main problem was the lockup converters were giving up.

You could look into using Cope's 727 lockup converter kit. I was mildly interested in it, until I noticed he was using a high dollar converter.... I'm not into spending piles of cash, but that is just me.

 

[Boris7K]

Will the Master Kit come with new springs for the direct drum? I can't see them listed in the catalog. How many should I use in this application? Also, with the deep pan, how long of a filter extension do I need?

 

[Dave6T4]

Will the Master Kit come with new springs for the direct drum? I can't see them listed in the catalog. How many should I use in this application? Also, with the deep pan, how long of a filter extension do I need?

Measure the depth of your deep pan. Now, measure the depth of your stock pan. The difference between the two will be the approximate length of your required filter extension. Cable shifted transmissions take an extension and filter with two holes. I have never seen those springs in rebuild kits, but I think A&A sells them. I have always just reused what was there. As far as number of springs, I always shoot for 9 or 10, depending on the number of pegs on the piston. There are different pistons with varying number of pegs.

 

[Lefty71]

I've never seen a kit with the springs included, but that does not mean they don't exist. I have definitely bought them separately in a fifteen pack from A&A. There is some info in Monroe's trans rebuild book that should help you match up the number you want to use depending on your application. Actually, I think there are some pro tips in the back of Tom Hand's book too which may point you in the right direction as well.

 

[Boris7K]

I'll have to keep reading then, Thanks!

 

[Lefty71]

More springs (up to 15) will further reduce overlap in the 2-3 shift. It would do this by slowing the front clutch apply as the second gear band releases. Bear in mind, if not making a lot of modifications, then best to put it back together with new stuff exactly as is was (to new spec) and it'll just work as it did new, which is great. If you do make mods, ensure they all work together and follow their instructions carefully.

 

[Black_Sheep]

I got a lot of my parts from Pat Blais aka Torqueflite Patty. He has an EBay store and was super helpful with parts selection. I also consulted with Turbo Action to get their recommendation regarding what KD lever ratio and servo spring to use with their pro street valve body. The only “exotic” part I used was a steel banded billet aluminum drum.

 

[Dave6T4]

I usually did a bit of a shift kit when I rebuilt transmissions for my friends.This consisted of opening up oil holes in the separator plate, and generally following Trans-Go instruction sheet as it applied to the valve body. I would leave the accumulator spring out, and upgrade 2.9 levers to 4.2. I just left 3.8 levers alone. Using 9 or 10 front clutch springs, I never had 2-3 shift overlap problems.

 

[fj5gtx]

There used to be a mopar performance shift kit (P4349469) that made some mods that didn't include any valve body mods. Attached are the original directions included in the kit. This kit included:
1. An aluminum tube (substitute for the accumulator spring)
2. Replacement servo assembly
3. Direction to increase line pressure to maximum

I installed one of these a long time ago with a 383 with 3.55 rear, and it made the used 727 transmission shift early, fast, and pretty hard. Just last week I found the last one I bought buried in a transmission parts box in storage. The box also had a standard rebuilt kit (clutches, bushings, seals), and a pair of new bands.

Plan is to rebuild a mid 70s 727 bb trans, I'm thinking I'm going to use that shift kit in this rebuild.

At minimum I'll order new sprag and clutch springs, mainly because they are so old. Maybe upgrade to the bolt-in sprag from A&A, steel drum, and 5 pinion planetary.... I think you can repurpose the planetary from a 46re - I'll have to recheck the facts that one, my memory is not super clear on that. Might make some sense to grab a 46re from the picknpull, take what I can repurpose and sell the rest.

 

[Dave6T4]

I don't like the blocked accumulator. I think it makes the part throttle shifts too harsh for a street car. I usually just leave the spring out.

 

[Boris7K]

So far, I'm sticking to dvw's recipe, thanks Doug! I've ordered a Deluxe Kit from transpartsonline, a pan from Amazon, and a TF-2 kit from Summit. I haven't torn into it yet, hoping it already has a 4 plate front drum and enough springs that I don't have to track any more down. I will have to measure the difference in depth of the pans and order a filter spacer. I am using a B&M Quicksilver shifter, a Lokar throttle and kickdown cable and plan on getting an external trans cooler. This will be my first trans rebuild, my dad's buddy let me watch him build one for my first car but it's been 35 years since then. I'm waiting on the machine shop to get my cam bearing problem sorted out then I can get that put together, once all that happens I can finally start assembling.

 

[Black_Sheep]

So far, I'm sticking to dvw's recipe, thanks Doug! I've ordered a Deluxe Kit from transpartsonline, a pan from Amazon, and a TF-2 kit from Summit. I haven't torn into it yet, hoping it already has a 4 plate front drum and enough springs that I don't have to track any more down. I will have to measure the difference in depth of the pans and order a filter spacer. I am using a B&M Quicksilver shifter, a Lokar throttle and kickdown cable and plan on getting an external trans cooler. This will be my first trans rebuild, my dad's buddy let me watch him build one for my first car but it's been 35 years since then. I'm waiting on the machine shop to get my cam bearing problem sorted out then I can get that put together, once all that happens I can finally start assembling.

Take the trans apart, clean everything up well and reassemble/disassemble until you are comfortable with how it all goes together. When you feel confident that you are ready, clean everything really well and reassemble with the new parts. Be sure to soak the frictions for at least a half hour prior to reassembly and use assembly grease to hold the thrust washers in place (I used Vaseline). Check clearances as you go.

Air check the hydraulic circuits before installing the valve body.

727’s are not terribly complicated, if you have questions just ask here and someone will talk you through it.

Good luck…

 

[Boris7K]

What I love about this place!

if you have questions just ask here and someone will talk you through it

 

[fj5gtx]

So far, I'm sticking to dvw's recipe, thanks Doug! I've ordered a Deluxe Kit from transpartsonline, a pan from Amazon, and a TF-2 kit from Summit. I haven't torn into it yet, hoping it already has a 4 plate front drum and enough springs that I don't have to track any more down. I will have to measure the difference in depth of the pans and order a filter spacer. I am using a B&M Quicksilver shifter, a Lokar throttle and kickdown cable and plan on getting an external trans cooler. This will be my first trans rebuild, my dad's buddy let me watch him build one for my first car but it's been 35 years since then. I'm waiting on the machine shop to get my cam bearing problem sorted out then I can get that put together, once all that happens I can finally start assembling.

I would check to see how much ground clearance that 46re pan will have for your project, likely amazon will take a return if you decide its too deep. You said no track use, but said "shenanigans". If that includes brake stands - do not let go while you're still in first gear - or you'll need a another transmission and potentially medical assistance.

 

[dvw]

The 518 pan has plenty of ground clearance. In refernce above. No need for a 5 pinion planet. If you run a valve body with low band apply the stock low roller clutch (sprag) will be fine. As long as the rollers are smooth I reuse them. The economy bolt in sprags are designed for case repair. They offer no advantage. The TF2 shift kit offers options of different levels of shifts and is resonably priced at Summit $75.
Doug

 

[Boris7K]

Well, here we go. Getting ready to tear into this thing, after cleaning with a pressure wash I'll measure the input shaft end play for shimming and start disassembling.