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Looking for basic 440 I.D. help.

You got any pictures of the block casting numbers ?
If it is a true R/T I agree that it should be an HP block but remember the only difference in a HP or non HP block is nothing more than the stamp.
The HP internals would have a hotter cam and stiffer springs and maybe a steel shim head gasket or HP oil pump that the standard engine would not have.
Any standard 440 can be turned into what the HP would have easily.
I don't have any of the numbers off the sides of the engine yet. I am not currently flexible enough to get to where I can see them. I tried sneaking my phone down there but didn't get any good pictures. the prior owners already did headers, Edelbrock intake and carb, and a dual point distributor. I am not too worried about the actual horsepower. I was just hoping for more originality. In some ways I am probably better off since now I don't have to fall down the rabbit hole of keeping everything exactly as original.
 
One important detail that gets overlooked... You shouldn't take the originally thing to serious... Try, sure but at the end of the day it's not worth losing sleep over... The hobby should be more about enjoyment than aggravation... Just my 2 cents..
I wrote the above reply before I read your post. I agree with you. Truth is, I don't have the skills to make a concourse car, or even a show car. I will set the bar at very nice driver and aim for that.
 
I don't have any of the numbers off the sides of the engine yet. I am not currently flexible enough to get to where I can see them. I tried sneaking my phone down there but didn't get any good pictures. the prior owners already did headers, Edelbrock intake and carb, and a dual point distributor. I am not too worried about the actual horsepower. I was just hoping for more originality. In some ways I am probably better off since now I don't have to fall down the rabbit hole of keeping everything exactly as original.
You probably have more horsepower now than when the motor was new with what has been added on.
Your motor should already be 10:1 compression or close to it from the factory.
 
I wrote the above reply before I read your post. I agree with you. Truth is, I don't have the skills to make a concourse car, or even a show car. I will set the bar at very nice driver and aim for that.
Nice drivers are the fun spot...
 
Nice drivers are the fun spot...
I hope so. Just ordered some expensive wiring. Car has been home for less than 24 hours and I am already going to have to hide some mail from my wife.
 
I hope so. Just ordered some expensive wiring. Car has been home for less than 24 hours and I am already going to have to hide some mail from my wife.
Just need to get her onboard with your hobby.... I've gotta momma trained pretty good, she doesn't even raise an eyebrow anymore... But she loves going on drives with a few other cars with other couples...

C2A0D83B-6883-4B4B-8E18-E7B8A176C487.jpg
 
You have a 1968 440 block, it may not be original to the car, but other than that there is not much difference. Especially if it has ever been or will be rebuilt. I would tune it up and drive it, to see what kind of shape its in.
 
You have a 1968 440 block, it may not be original to the car, but other than that there is not much difference. Especially if it has ever been or will be rebuilt. I would tune it up and drive it, to see what kind of shape its in.
One of these days I will give it a thorough inspection. Might even be this weekend. I have a friend who wants to come over and pull valve covers to see what's there, do full tune up, etc., so I will probably get over the hp thing pretty quick.
 
If your looking at the bottom of the engine you might as well look at the ear below the starter... there will be numbers stamped there... Like this...

106_1222.jpg


The PT440 just tells you its a 440, the next code, in this case a P means premium fuel but thats just a regular 440... A HP 440 would have an S in that location....
 
If your looking at the bottom of the engine you might as well look at the ear below the starter... there will be numbers stamped there... Like this...

View attachment 1364409

The PT440 just tells you its a 440, the next code, in this case a P means premium fuel but thats just a regular 440... A HP 440 would have an S in that location....
What did the S stand for? And the series of numbers?
 
PT = Trenton Engine Plant
440 = No Idea??? LOL
P = Premium S = Special
2464 = April 26th (10,000 day calendar)
0839 = 839th engine assembled that day
 
PT = Trenton Engine Plant
440 = No Idea??? LOL
P = Premium S = Special
2464 = April 26th (10,000 day calendar)
0839 = 839th engine assembled that day
Thanks. I never knew there was a 10,000 day calendar. I just did some quick calculating. If we all switched to a 10,000 day calendar, I would be going through my terrible two's right now.
 
68 VIN stamping seems to be one of the most under researched topics in the hobby leading to lots of flat our wrong and lots of mis information.

It appears when VINs were stamped on blocks varies by plant. One can find relatively low VIN numbers on St. Louis built cars indicating that plant may have started stamping VINs at the beginning of the year.

@fesser .

1) Good choice in cars. Welcome to FBBO.

2) If you have posted the VIN of the car, I haven't seen it. Knowing the VIN would allow us to start bracketing your car with cars and known SPDs giving us a better handle on when you car was built. Then, we can compare an approximated SPD to the block to see how they compare. If your car was built in August, it would be impossible to have an October assembled block. If your car was built in October, November or maybe even December, it could have an October assembly. If your car was built in July, it's pretty unlikely it would have an Oct. engine assembly.

3) An R/T should have a block stamped HP but lets look at the assembly date to VIN correlation first.
 
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68 VIN stamping seems to be one of the most under researched topics in the hobby leading to lots of flat our wrong and lots of mis information.

It appears when VINs were stamped on blocks varies by plant. One can find relatively low VIN numbers on St. Louis built cars indicating that plant may have started stamping VINs at the beginning of the year.

@fesser .

1) Good choice in cars. Welcome to FBBO.

2) If you have posted the VIN of the car, I haven't seen it. Knowing the VIN would allow us to start bracketing your car with cars and known SPDs giving us a better handle on when you car was built. Then, we can compare an approximated SPD to the block to see how they compare. If your car was built in August, it would be impossible to have an October assembled block. If your car was built in October, November or maybe even December, it could have an October assembly. If your car was built in July, it's pretty unlikely it would have an Oct. engine assembly.

3) An R/T should have an HP block but lets look at the assembly date to VIN first.
Not to nitpick but… HP “stamped” block should really be what we call it. But I still hear 440 heads so. :)
 
Here is a pair of identical 67 440 heads.
..or are they?
Screenshot_20221027-084327_Chrome.jpg

But as far as 68's.. all 440s got the same heads. The beginning of the watering down.
 
68 VIN stamping seems to be one of the most under researched topics in the hobby leading to lots of flat our wrong and lots of mis information.

It appears when VINs were stamped on blocks varies by plant. One can find relatively low VIN numbers on St. Louis built cars indicating that plant may have started stamping VINs at the beginning of the year.

@fesser .

1) Good choice in cars. Welcome to FBBO.

2) If you have posted the VIN of the car, I haven't seen it. Knowing the VIN would allow us to start bracketing your car with cars and known SPDs giving us a better handle on when you car was built. Then, we can compare an approximated SPD to the block to see how they compare. If your car was built in August, it would be impossible to have an October assembled block. If your car was built in October, November or maybe even December, it could have an October assembly. If your car was built in July, it's pretty unlikely it would have an Oct. engine assembly.

3) An R/T should have a block stamped HP but lets look at the assembly date to VIN correlation first.
I should know this, and probably did, but what is a SPD?
My VIN: WS23L8E149014
My SO: E8W221190
Below is a photo of part of the numbers on the passenger side of the block. I took it using one of those inspection cameras. I couldn't control the snake well enough to get a better shot but maybe those of you with sharp eyes and a knowldege of what would be there can glean something from it.

IMG_2345.JPG
 
SPD is scheduled production date. Its on the fender tag.
 
SPD is scheduled production date. Its on the fender tag.
Dang it! I knew that! Now if I could only get the tweakers who stole the fender tag to give it back.
 
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