Lots of questions

[brose89]

Ok im new to mopars in general and have lots of questions about my new project

Info on car
1971 plymouth satellite 4dr sedan
318 small block la
Torqueflight 727

Now I have a build in mind for it but first my goal is to get it running again.

I bought the car changed the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. And pulled the engine wiring off and cleaned it up but now the car will not start

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated

 

[Lets Roll]

I would start out by posting some pics of your engine and compartment after the work you did, that will show everyone what components are in there. If the ignition switch on I would check for 12v dc on the positive side of coil.

 

[kjalltrac]

Do you get spark?

 

[brose89]

I would start out by posting some pics of your engine and compartment after the work you did, that will show everyone what components are in there. If the ignition switch on I would check for 12v dc on the positive side of coil.

I would post pictures of it but my camera is junk.

Do you get spark?

No I do not get spark. Is there somewhere I can get a wiring diagram?

 

[threewood]

Service manual would be my first purchase.

Does it turn over at all? Anything when you key it to start? Do the lights come on when keyed to acc? Interior light when the door opens?

 

[brose89]

Ok I did some looking and found a wiring diagram. I didnt have the alternator wires or the ballast resistor wires hooked up in the right place. I traced all of the wires and now my ballast resistor does not get hot. What voltage should I be reading at the ballast resistor? And I am 0 volts at the coil.

 

[brose89]

Service manual would be my first purchase.

Does it turn over at all? Anything when you key it to start? Do the lights come on when keyed to acc? Interior light when the door opens?

Yes it cranks, its getting fuel. just no spark

 

[super-bee_ski]

I believe you need a small amount of Ohmage at the resistor
1 to 1.5 Ohms
Be sure to have resolution correct (RANGE) on your multi meter

Remember:
1. Fuel
2. Air
3. Spark

 

[super-bee_ski]

Also:
Chrysler, Plymouth and Dodge ignition systems works like this:
It has 2 current paths
1. Start circuit
2. Run circuit
-When the KEY is turned to the "ON" position the START circuit bypasses your BALLAST resistor sending the FULL 12V to the COIL.
-When the engine is now running, the KEY is released and it is now in the RUN position (NOT START POSITION)
-In this MODE 12VDC power is NOW flowing through your BALLAST Resistor and it is simply used as a Voltage Drop for the Coil.
NOTE: Do not place leads across the Ballast resistor when car in running

I hope this simple explanation helps you
"super-bee_ski"

 

[brose89]

I believe you need a small amount of Ohmage at the resistor
1 to 1.5 Ohms
Be sure to have resolution correct (RANGE) on your multi meter

Remember:
1. Fuel
2. Air
3. Spark

Ok ive narrowed it down to spark. I broke out the test light (not very good with a multimeter) there is very little power to the coil.

I checked power at the ballast resistor
the blue wire the test light is bright
The brown wire the light dims dramatically
At the coil you can barely see the test light is on

 

[brose89]

Is the ballast resistor supposed to cut power when starting the car or is it supposed to apply more power?

 

[brose89]

Alright guys I finally got the satellite fired up today. Turns out it was a mixture of things on why it wouldn't start.
First I jumped the ballast resistor and it sputtered
Second I adjusted the timing (turns out it was a full cylinder off)
Cranked for a second and it fired up

Now it did something I thought was a little strange

While starting it the key turned all the way over it just cranks but as soon as I let it go is when it fired. Any ideas? Is it normal? Bad ignition switch?