Low alternator charge at idle

[Kern Dog]

If only I knew a dude with a lathe.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

If only I knew a dude with a lathe.

Let me know if you find one... 100% got ya covered..

 

[Don67Satellite]

Thanks Nacho and Don.
I have always relied on factory type alternators that I buy rebuilt from the major auto parts stores so I'm not as familiar with the aftermarket units. It would be good to have something that fits stock brackets so if I have a failure when on a road trip, I'd have an easier time finding at least something to get me on the road again.

The PowerMaster I installed is a direct bolt in replacement, and fits the stock brackets with the stock spacers. So far 2 years and zero issues. It is a dual field, so just ground the other terminal in my ride.

I kinda like the Denso idea, except I am not schooled enough to know if because internally regulated, if that should take a dump, are they replaceable or you toss the whole unit?

Is anybody worried about the higher amperage of the newer style alternators against the factory original wiring? That’s always been the knock for the earlier cars, especially the A bodies that used the paltry 38a alternators. Not saying Kern doesn’t have a wiring upgrade, and even a new dash and underhood harness from Classic may negate this worry, but I just wanted to bring it to light in case it’s still a concern.

If your car only needs 40A to run everything, that's all it's gonna PULL from the alternator, whether it's a 60A or 200A. They are not just jamming 200 amps through the factory wiring and bulkhead all the time.

 

[OneWheelPeel]

Following this because while I don’t even have a working heater blower, eventually I’ll have AC and will want a good dual belt pulley set up. If it’s a lightly modified Toyota unit I can get at FLAPs all the better. Could this machining be done on a HF mini lathe? I only need flimsy excuses to buy tools.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Following this because while I don’t even have a working heater blower, eventually I’ll have AC and will want a good dual belt pulley set up. If it’s a lightly modified Toyota unit I can get at FLAPs all the better. Could this machining be done on a HF mini lathe? I only need flimsy excuses to buy tools.

Mini Lathe shouldn't have any trouble doing what needs to be done...

First photo shows the replacement pulley as supplied.. Second photo shows it modified & installed on the Denso...

Chuck it in the lathe, take off the step designed for a pulley puller, then machine a pocket for the nut and bore the through hole to the proper diameter for a tight slip fit on the Denso alternator shaft...

 

[Kern Dog]

For those that are concerned with cutting out weight, that Toyota based Denso alternator is supposed to be 6-7 lbs less than the stock alternator.
Some may not know it but the late LA series engines from 1988 to the introduction of the 5.2 and 5.9 Magnum engines used Denso alternators. I've seen them on Diplomats, Gran Fury and Fifth Avenue cars in junkyards. I can assume that the trucks and vans started getting them about the same time?

 

[cosgig]

The PowerMaster I installed is a direct bolt in replacement, and fits the stock brackets with the stock spacers. So far 2 years and zero issues. It is a dual field, so just ground the other terminal in my ride.

I kinda like the Denso idea, except I am not schooled enough to know if because internally regulated, if that should take a dump, are they replaceable or you toss the whole unit?


If your car only needs 40A to run everything, that's all it's gonna PULL from the alternator, whether it's a 60A or 200A. They are not just jamming 200 amps through the factory wiring and bulkhead all the time.

Not until you add a bunch of items that require more power to be sent through the stock wiring, that is. Because the OP obviously has a rather robust draw if his meter goes down to 10a at idle. So, my question remains, is anybody worried about the stock sized wiring when running an alternator over say, 100a?

 

[hunt2elk]

Not until you add a bunch of items that require more power to be sent through the stock wiring, that is. Because the OP obviously has a rather robust draw if his meter goes down to 10a at idle. So, my question remains, is anybody worried about the stock sized wiring when running an alternator over say, 100a?

Yes, I always run a #8 from the alt to starter relay. That covers my alternator capacity, I don't run 100A units however.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Not until you add a bunch of items that require more power to be sent through the stock wiring, that is. Because the OP obviously has a rather robust draw if his meter goes down to 10a at idle. So, my question remains, is anybody worried about the stock sized wiring when running an alternator over say, 100a?

Stock wiring? If these described added loads are not directly connected to the battery while running a stock charging system that includes the ammeter, connected instead to the alternator, there will be little impact to the stock wiring while the vehicle is in operation. Takes little effort to upsize the alternator charge feed to splice 1, bypass the bulkhead terminals, if still concerned.

The OP made it clear there have been modifications, is no longer stock.

 

[69hemibeep]

I have run both single and dual belts on the Sanden type A/C compressor and found no difference, no slippage with a single. Besides it's hard to find a matched set of belts anymore. I can understand it on the old York compressor.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I have run both single and dual belts on the Sanden type A/C compressor and found no difference, no slippage with a single. Besides it's hard to find a matched set of belts anymore. I can understand it on the old York compressor.

Well your the exception.... I've dealt with it a bunch... The low mount big block Sanden is practically un-usable on a hot day.... The small block Bouchlion kit that runs a single belt warns of slippage concerns on the website....

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Yes, I always run a #8 from the alt to starter relay. That covers my alternator capacity, I don't run 100A units however.

Careful with that by-pass if running the factory ammeter and factory under dash wiring. Performed the way most of the folks promoting it recommend, it in fact creates a much higher risk of burning wires in the event of a short, as the factory circuit protection is also bypassed or significantly alters it, making it completely useless in an over-current event.

 

[hunt2elk]

Careful with that by-pass if running the factory ammeter and factory under dash wiring. Performed the way most of the folks promoting it recommend, in fact creates a much higher risk of burning wires in the event of a short, as the factory circuit protection is also bypassed or significantly alters it, making it completely useless in an over-current event.

I bypass the factory ammeter and the spade connectors through the bulkhead.

 

[69hemibeep]

Well your the exception.... I've dealt with it a bunch... The low mount big block Sanden is practically un-usable on a hot day.... The small block Bouchlion kit that runs a single belt warns of slippage concerns on the website....

I have the Big block kit from Bouchillon in my Valiant.

 

[Don67Satellite]

Not until you add a bunch of items that require more power to be sent through the stock wiring, that is. Because the OP obviously has a rather robust draw if his meter goes down to 10a at idle. So, my question remains, is anybody worried about the stock sized wiring when running an alternator over say, 100a?

If you add a bunch of items incorrectly, yes you will push more through the stock wiring.

Load placement matters.

 

[Kern Dog]

Before I added the A/C, the lower alternator output at idle was not that much. The gauge is small but it does seem like I'm running a decent charge rate above 1800-2000 rpms with no heater or A.C on, even with the headlights going. When I had an automatic, I'd sit at a traffic light at 700-800 rpm with my foot on the brake. Low rpm and brake lights will have a lower alternator output but I didn't have a working heater and A/C until 2022 when at that point, I swapped in a 5 speed. Higher idle speed and sitting at a stop light on flat ground required no use of the brake to hold the car still. Daytime cruising with the A/C still showed near 12 volts at idle.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I have the Big block kit from Bouchillon in my Valiant.

Straight from the Bouchlion website... About their low mount Big Block kit...

NOTES: 1-You will loose your mounting for your Mechanical Fuel Pump
2-Some Engine Mounts and Insulators will require Clearancing and Modifications for fit.
3-Any Alternator other than Stock Output (15/60 amps) will cause a BELT SQUEAL FROM HELL! ALL HI Output Alternators (50/75 Amps) we list will not work.
4-This is the HARDEST BRACKET WE MANUFACTURE TO INSTALL CORRECTLY. Mounting Points have moved over the years in Castings, Fore and Aft. Compressor and Alternator is driven by 1 Single Belt. It is Highly Recommended that this bracket be installed while Engine is on an Engine Stand. Perfect Pulley Alignment is REQUIRED (+-.040"). A Straight Edge and Digital Calipers recommended to check TRUE PULLEY ALIGNMENT. PREMIUM BELT IS A MUST.
5-This Bracket is NOT Recommended for a vehicle that will be driven alot or long distances. Most popular applications are vehicles that stay close to home. Adjustments are hard to perform on the highway.
6-NOT HEEDING TO ALL NOTES ABOVE WILL AWARD YOU A "BELT SQUEAL FROM HELL"
7-Will not work with any Street Hemi, Aftermarket thick dampers

And yes those cars I've worked on have had the whole straight edge treatment.... However they break rule #5.... The people I hag around tend to drive their cars a lot... We don't cruise the fair grounds or hang out at the local malt shop... We drive a lot... 250-400 miles is an average weekend joy ride & 1000+ happens occasionally...

 

[threewood]

What the crap is the point of installing a kit that you can't drive or has belt slip issues? Seems like a waste of money.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

What the crap is the point of installing a kit that you can't drive or has belt slip issues? Seems like a waste of money.

Low mount compressor kits are all about vanity.. "I want A/C, but I don't want anyone to see my A/C".... Hey, hidden is cool, but if your limited to local drives what's the point....

 

[69hemibeep]

Mine is a top mount.