Ok, let me see if I can delete them.
Ok ,try it now
Don't know why you would choose to run a single belt version but if it's working for you then good enough......
You won’t find any slippage until you run a 1 wire powermaster alternator. Then a dual belt is a must.
I was playing with the cooling system, different pumps, pulleys, fans and radiator, it was easier with a single belt. When I got it to cool I left it that way a couple years ago, I guess I'm lazy. There is a matched set in the trunk but this is working. did the same on a friends car with no issues that couldn't find a good match set of belts and went single. It's amazing how different the length of belts are depending on where they were cut off of the cylinder of material.
Your posts really helped me get my car lined out on my stock wiring harness but what sucks is tuff stuff can’t get enough idling amps in those stock looking alternators when you go to adding Electric fans on top of AC and the other accessories so as much as I hated it I had to step up to a 1 wire 160 amp/100 idling amps powermaster and that solved my problem.
I'm running the PowerMaster 7509 in both cars. They generate 67A at idle, 84A at cruise, 99A top end. And they look like the stock squareback Chrysler alternators. Pricey though.
It's a good point. The issue with running a high output alternator with stock wiring is that you can't let the alternator charge the battery if it becomes fully discharged [leaving the headlights on for instance]. Use a trickle charger to charge the battery.
I just wanted to add my agreement with this point. If your alternator can produce a lot of current and your battery is dead, then you could easily overload the stock wiring through the bulkhead and ammeter even if you haven't added any loads to the system. A dead battery will draw quite a bit of current if the alternator can source it. With the stock alternator, this is not an issue, but it could be a serious problem with a larger than stock alternator coupled with stock wiring. Cheers!
There shouldn't be any risk with a stock alternator, as the system is designed so that the stock alternator cannot source enough current to cause problems with the stock wiring. The issue you are referencing is only a concern if the stock alternator is replaced with a higher output unit without any changes to the stock wiring. Cheers!
The 7509 still doesn’t have enough idling amps to properly charge your car if you’re loaded down accessories like AC and fans.
He’s already running an 8 gauge from the alt to the starter relay but I’d probably move up to at least a 4 gauge with the higher amp alternator.
Looks good.
Is there any special modifications required to get the LED lights to work with our cars? I seem to recall when LED headlights first came out that some additional wiring upgrades were required.
