Low Profile Intake on 440 in 1966 Coronet

[LSS&B]

2 questions:
1966 Coronet Deluxe 2-door sedan, pump premium street performance 440/727/8.75 with 3.23 gears planning stage. Would like to run a factory air cleaner, but that is not mandatory. Do not intend to drag race.

1) Are the 2206000 1966 4-hole intakes or 2806178 1967 4-hole intakes OK for street performance? Would either by incompatible with modern square bore carburetor like Edelbrock AVS2? Carb spacer required?
Intake manifolds from 440 Source.com likes 2806178
2) What aftermarket low profile intake is a better option with good hood clearance?
Thanks for your advice

2806178 in my possession. I don't own 2206000, although it is factory correct.

 

[dvw]

Holley Street Dominator is a great choice. Don't be misled by the fact that it is a single plane. Great street intake.
Doug

 

[rickseeman]

As Doug said, The Street Dominator is the King of Power in the category for performance intake that will fit under the hood, as demonstrated in many dyno shootouts. Which makes no sense when you look at it. Low, flat, heat riser, EGR valve, small ports. It looks like the slowest intake ever. But it is the King.

 

[furious70]

The street dominator does hurt low end tq however.
If you want an aluminum intake the performer or ch4b make sense. Your intake pictured is ok for stockish engine as well.
What cam and heads?

 

[autoxcuda]

Edelbrock performer or Performer RPM.

 

[Geoff 2]

Edel Performer intake or Chinese equivalent [ not the RPM, it is taller & for a higher rpm range ].

 

[496 polara]

A ch4b would be my choice over the street dominator with the 3.23 gears.

I ran both on my 70 Polara 4dr with a 496 stroked 440. The street dominator pulled harder up top but the ch4b was hands down better at the low and midrange in a heavy car with 3.55 gears. The idle was a little better with the dual plane intake as well. The ch4b had no problems turning 6000rpm with the 496 either. Great intake in general and a win for hood clearance also.

 

[BSB67]

We really have no good info to go on.

To summarize; 440, B-Body, 3.23 gear, any air cleaner is kinda okay, it will never go to the track.

Did I miss anything?

With that info, I suggest you use the factory 178. Get it together and get it running and then decide next steps.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Agreed. Get it running with the stock intake. You can swap an intake later in about 2 hrs

 

[hunt2elk]

Edelbrock performer or Performer RPM.

The RPM would not work with a oem air cleaner assembly as it is almost 2" taller than a stock intake.

 

[BSB67]

Let’s clear a few things up.

Here are the intake heights relative to the 178:

CH4B - +0.4”
Performer - +0.5”
HD. - +0.9”
Torker - +0.9”
6-Pack. - 1.4”
Indy 440-2D. - +1.6”
Perf. RPM. - +1.6”

They all clear the hood. You can also make all of these work with the factory air cleaner. The level of effort and creativity to make it work goes up considerably the taller the intake.

 

[R413]

CH4B is like stock only better. Had one on a 70 GTX. Fun

Use the 178 intake, that older 2206000 is flatter and not going to run as good as 178.

 

[LSS&B]

Thanks all for the info and shared experience! That's what makes FBBO great

We really have no good info to go on.

To summarize; 440, B-Body, 3.23 gear, any air cleaner is kinda okay, it will never go to the track.

Did I miss anything?

With that info, I suggest you use the factory 178. Get it together and get it running and then decide next steps.

Planned:
Block: B440 cast 12-21-65
For premium pump gas, I intend to run 9.0-9.5:1 compression.
Stroke: 3.75 stock forged crank
Connecting rods: stock 440, not 6-pack
Heads: I have 915 BB iron heads. I intend to run stock valve size.
Cam: I am thinking about .5 lift, maybe 240 duration at .050.
I admit, I have not done much cam research, only after reading all the bad Comp Cam stories, I intend to buy something else.
Trans: 727 with shift kit and kickdown linkage. No manual valve body.

Already installed:
318/727
Fuel lines are 3/8". Someone else installed.
Gas tank & FSU are new.
1973 Electronic Ignition
Rear 8.75 with 3.23 open gears
Brakes: 73-76 A-body front disc conversion. Rear are stock drum.
Suspension is rebuilt. However torsion bars are mismatched. .91 left vs .965 right side
Steering is rebuilt, but gear is sloppy and PS pump is leaking

Still plenty of small things to be fixed
Owned since 2025-01-16

 

[autoxcuda]

Thanks all for the info and shared experience! That's what makes FBBO great

Planned:
Block: B440 cast 12-21-65
For premium pump gas, I intend to run 9.0-9.5:1 compression.
Stroke: 3.75 stock forged crank
Connecting rods: stock 440, not 6-pack
Heads: I have 915 BB iron heads. I intend to run stock valve size.
Cam: I am thinking about .5 lift, maybe 240 duration at .050.
I admit, I have not done much cam research, only after reading all the bad Comp Cam stories, I intend to buy something else.
Trans: 727 with shift kit and kickdown linkage. No manual valve body.

Already installed:
318/727
Fuel lines are 3/8". Someone else installed.
Gas tank & FSU are new.
1973 Electronic Ignition
Rear 8.75 with 3.23 open gears
Brakes: 73-76 A-body front disc conversion. Rear are stock drum.
Suspension is rebuilt. However torsion bars are mismatched. .91 left vs .965 right side
Steering is rebuilt, but gear is sloppy and PS pump is leaking

Still plenty of small things to be fixed
Owned since 2025-01-16

Are you fully rebuilding this motor? : bore, hone, polish/turn crank, resize rods for new rod bolts, press new pistons onto rods, fully rebuild heads?

Or do you have an existing short block and/or head that are ready to bolt on?

 

[496 polara]

Of what you posted I would consider a smaller cam. Something in the 220's @.050 with a stock converter and 3.23 gears.Lift won't matter with stock heads,just keep it under .500 and you will be fine. Money spent on the heads will be returned in spades for the smile factor whether you go to the track or not.

 

[BSB67]

Of what you posted I would consider a smaller cam. Something in the 220's @.050 with a stock converter and 3.23 gears.Lift won't matter with stock heads,just keep it under .500 and you will be fine. Money spent on the heads will be returned in spades for the smile factor whether you go to the track or not.

This was my thought too. I’d say something less that 230 degrees if your going hydraulic.

The better you make the heads the faster the car will be, everywhere. Don’t skimp there, and if you have some extra coin, that’s where you should put it.