Lower Control Arm Bushing Condition

[MoparGuy68]

In the process of a Power Steering system replacement, I've encountered some issues with my lower control arm bushings. The rubber part of the bushing is partially torn out of the driver side, and has cracks on the passenger side. Looks like the driver side needs to be replaced, and maybe the passenger side too. What do you guys think, is this something that can wait a bit longer, or should I do it now?

The driver side bushing is wet with ATF from a leaking steering gearbox that is now out of the car. The continuous exposure to ATF, from the gearbox, may have contributed to the rubber tearing out at the end of the bushing.

 

[Demonic]

The continuous exposure to ATF, from the gearbox, may have contributed to the rubber tearing out at the end of the bushing.

It definitely contributed. But they don't look too old, judging by the anodizing I see on the sleeve. How old are they? There's been quality control issues with the once-popular Moog brand. Proforged seems the way to go.

 

[blu satelite]

if the pivot is still centered in the bushing it can wait

 

[ddpsnake]

time to replace.

 

[ddpsnake]

time to replace.

allso when you have the lcas off get some lca plates from Mancini, boxing them in is good.

 

[Jerry Hall]

Always replace both!!

 

[Cranky]

Based on the pics, I would say they still have some life left but keep an eye on them. If you notice the pivot shaft moving away from the center....it's for sure time to jump in.

 

[MoparGuy68]

3 say I could hold off, 1 says time to replace.

I’ve only had the car for 3 months. Bushings have been in there a minimum of 11 years, but probably less than 21 years. All bushings, ball joints and tie rod ends look to have been replaced sometime between 1999 and 2008 according to the history I got from the previous owner. Probably between 1999 and 2001 would be my best guess, based on receipts I got with the car.

I looked at the Proforged website. Saw individual parts listings but no complete front end rebuild “kit”. I already have a new Diamond Series Steering arm from Rare Parts. Rare Parts is the same way no kits. Because of what I’ve read I want to stay away from Moog.

Upper Control Arm bushings look good to me. Ball joints appear to be tight. I tried moving the wheels up and down with the front end lifted, and felt no play, but the suspension was unloaded. Don’t remember if the ball joint test should be done loaded or unloaded.

So I’m trying to decide whether I should replace the upper bushings. I might damage ball joints in attempt to remove the lower arms. I want to cease all work by May 1st before the heat sets in. Gotta have this car drivable by then and I only have time to work on it on weekends, which drags the work out to weeks instead of days.

If I finish the power steering system, could the lower arms be removed without having to separate steering arm and idler arm from center link? I could not get the tie rod out of center link, until I broke the steering arm free from the center link. Maybe if the outer tie rod end is separated first(which I did not do), then the inner end will come out of the link without needing to separate steering/idler arms?

 

[Dako]

Get it on the road and see how it tracks, and responds. If there are no issues (loose feel, straying, play, wandering, pulling) then enjoy it until something develops. That could be years.

 

[Demonic]

If I finish the power steering system, could the lower arms be removed without having to separate steering arm and idler arm from center link?

Yes, you just unbolt them from the spindle.

 

[ddpsnake]

Its your life,my kids life + your tires.

 

[khryslerkid]

Don’t remember if the ball joint test should be done loaded or unloaded.

To check the lower ball joint, place your jack under the lower control arm close to the ball joint, jack the tire about two inches above the floor and slide a bar under it to lift up and see if there's any play.

There's no up or down pressure on the upper ball joint so check for movement by grabbing the top of the tire and try to move it in and out. A bar between the upper control arm and frame can be used also to check for up and down play.

 

[Rusty 72]

I wasn't able to tell how bad my 72 LCA bushings were until I removed the torsion bar. Once all that tension was off, the arm was really flopping around in the K member.
Its so hard to tell from pictures what could really be going on. You are going off what the previous owner told you. If it were me? I'd get a new kit off ebay or from PST and just replace it all. You'll rest easier at night.

 

[MoparGuy68]

The car has been supported by two jack stands under each front frame rail and a floor jack under the K-Frame for the past 3.5 weeks.. I want to finish the steering gearbox swap and get it back on the ground ASAP. Then I can decide what to do with lower control arms. Hopefully I would not need to disturb the steering gearbox, steering arm and idler arm, to rebuild/replace lower control arms, balls joints, knuckles, tie rod ends/sleeves. I don't mind removing the driver side torsion bar again. I'd rather not have the car end up on the stands/floor jack continuously for a total of 2 months, or however long it would end up taking me to replace LCA bushings and or other stuff. I'd rather wait until I have every single part I decide to replace before lifting the car up on stands again.

I'll need to thoroughly research what I would be buying too, as I really don't want made in China suspension parts. I'd rather keep my current lower control arms, than buy any that were made in China. I think the parts in a new suspension kit from ebay, would be more likely to fail, than the parts that are currently on my car. The last time the suspension was rebuilt on this car, was long enough ago, that the parts may have been made here.

 

[Beekeeper]

Yes do stay away from Moog all you get now is the box with the name on it. The parts inside are sourced from whoever gives the best deal. I ordered three sets of Moog lower control arm bushings all were junk and one set was made differently than the other two. Just order the proforged ones and save your self some time and aggravation if you decide they need replaced.