Lower control arm shaft and bushing kit?

[Auggie56]

Is this kit one that's desirable? Any suggestions on who to buy from? And anything to watch out assembling them?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/224559621123?hash=item3448cbe403:g:JEIAAOSw0Pdd05z7

I tell you I'm death on any automotive machine shops. My luck had be no luck to outright suspected sabotage. I know pretty strong words but I had just bushings installed on the original arms/shafts, I checked their work on the bench and everything looked good, till I tried to install them. The one shaft was lose when I tried to tighten the nut. They should have known that when they put it back together. So since I'm not wealthy I'm considering buying the above kit. And yes I know I'll be needing a shop with a press.

Many thanks

 

[RemCharger]

You can put those in and the shaft will still move.
I'm assuming you got the polys put in?

 

[69Bee]

I have done some for a customer on here. I informed him that his shafts were a very snug slip fit, not a press (interference) fit at all. We (I) installed the shafts with green Loctite (sleeve retainer) to keep them in place. These were Moog bushings and OEM shafts. I haven't dealt with the aftermarket ones you show in the link.

 

[RemCharger]

I've done a rash of them lately, all went in tight. I have personally never seen a loose fit with the moog bushings.
The poly ones on the other hand... are just greased up and squished in

I have done some for a customer on here. I informed him that his shafts were a very snug slip fit, not a press (interference) fit at all. We (I) installed the shafts with green Loctite (sleeve retainer) to keep them in place. These were Moog bushings and OEM shafts. I haven't dealt with the aftermarket ones you show in the link.

 

[Auggie56]

I have done some for a customer on here. I informed him that his shafts were a very snug slip fit, not a press (interference) fit at all. We (I) installed the shafts with green Loctite (sleeve retainer) to keep them in place. These were Moog bushings and OEM shafts. I haven't dealt with the aftermarket ones you show in the link.

So movement between the shaft and bushing is normal? I'm used to rubber to steel sleeve bushing that flex with use, not rotate?

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Movement is not normal, but as 69Bee said there have been a bunch of Moog bushings made oversize in the last few years, they should be a moderate press fit & I've had a dozen sets that would slip on with your bare hands... I send them back & order more... About every fourth box holds a treasure.... Most shops wouldn't know or care & surely wouldn't waste their time dealing with it...

I have no experience with those kits..

 

[dadsbee]

If you used those polys or delrin bushings the shafts are going to spin. If you used OE rubber/steel sleeved ones then they shouldn't as the rubber twisting is part of your dampening...

 

[Demonic]

I've had the slip fit issue with the Moog bushings also. Check your stuff carefully.

 

[Beekeeper]

I had the same problem with the Moog junk bushings after the 4th one I just ordered proforged and they were nice and fit correctly

 

[Auggie56]

I had the same problem with the Moog junk bushings after the 4th one I just ordered proforged and they were nice and fit correctly

Can you name a supplier please?

 

[Beekeeper]

I ordered direct from the proforged website they have now been bought by Holley I do believe.
https://www.holley.com/brands/proforged/

 

[PST]

Are you running rubber or poly lower control arm bushings? We have both polygraphite or rubber control arm bushings. We also offer stock OE replacement pivot shafts or greasable pivot shafts which has an oversized shaft on the bushing side so no need for inner sleeve on the control arm bushing side.

James From
PST

 

[JR_Charger]

I purchased PST's Mopar lower control arm rebuilding kit, with the polygraphite bushings, a while back. Then I found this thread where people who install the poly bushings are having them slip out. I haven't installed mine yet, and I doubt I will now. Some say the rubber bushing can't be the only thing that keeps the LCA from sliding forward, but I tried pushing the inner sleeve out of a 50 year old, dry rotted transmission mount bushing and could not get the ancient glue to break loose. IIRC I had the inner sleeve pushed clear of the outer sleeve and the glue didn't budge. So I'm 100% in agreement that Chrysler did engineer a bushing tough enough to hold the LCA in place.

Whether you buy Hotchkis or PST, the design of the poly bushing is fundamentally flawed in this application.

 

[PST]

I would have to respectfully disagree. What holds or centers the lower control arm is the strut rod as that is was it is designed for. The bushings in no what shape or forum is designed to hold or locate the control arm in place. The bushings is designed to do exactly what the name states. If your strut bushings are in good shape as well as the lower control arm bushings (rubber or poly) you will have no issue with movement or slipping of the pivot shaft in a poly bushing over rubber. We sell over 500 plus polygraphite mopar lower control arm bushings yearly with zero issue or returns and through a search of this forum you will find numerous user that have installed with no ill effect.

James From
PST

 

[JR_Charger]

There are a few forum members in the thread I linked to who had problems. StrokerSpanky was using your adjustable strut rods and appears to be qualified to do the installation correctly.

As far as I can tell, the strut rod should be acting as the center of a teeter-totter. When the car is moving forward, the force from the wheel will be pushing back on one end of the lever, and forcing the inside end of the LCA forward. No problems there, but if the car is in reverse the opposite situation will happen. Now the inside end of the LCA is forced backwards, and if it can slide on the polygraphite bushing it will go backwards until the torsion bar bottoms out (in its socket on the LCA). Eventually the poly bushing wiggles its way out of the LCA.

 

[PST]

With poly bushings properly installed and strut rod correctly in place the pivot pin would stay in place. Would you drive your car without strut rods? You don't. So saying the lower control arm bushing in rubber is partially designed to hold or center the lower control arm is not true. Without the strut rod in place with even a good rubber bushing it would just peels it apart. The rubber isn't what keeps the LCA in place. Plus there should be no more movement in reverse whether you have poly or rubber lower control arm bushings as long and your strut rod is in place with good strut rod bushings.

 

[Matt Curtis]

With poly bushings properly installed and strut rod correctly in place the pivot pin would stay in place. Would you drive your car without strut rods? You don't. So saying the lower control arm bushing in rubber is partially designed to hold or center the lower control arm is not true. Without the strut rod in place with even a good rubber bushing it would just peels it apart. The rubber isn't what keeps the LCA in place. Plus there should be no more movement in reverse whether you have poly or rubber lower control arm bushings as long and your strut rod is in place with good strut rod bushings.

I would like to see if you can help me with a brake conversion for 1968 Dodge Charger.

 

[Mopar Hunter]

Any pictures of the problem areas?

 

[Wietse]

When i replaced my LCA bushings with new Moog (rubber) I used a press to push em on the pivot shaft.
Half hour later I walk through the garage with a pivot shaft in my hand and the rubber bushing fell off the pivot shaft.. lol.
I installed them as is with grease, I also read many who had the same.
Once they wear out I'll try again.

 

[JR_Charger]

With poly bushings properly installed and strut rod correctly in place the pivot pin would stay in place. Would you drive your car without strut rods? You don't. So saying the lower control arm bushing in rubber is partially designed to hold or center the lower control arm is not true. Without the strut rod in place with even a good rubber bushing it would just peels it apart. The rubber isn't what keeps the LCA in place. Plus there should be no more movement in reverse whether you have poly or rubber lower control arm bushings as long and your strut rod is in place with good strut rod bushings.

Of course no one would leave the strut rod off.

Multiple members have tried to point out to you that the LCA has two ends. The strut rod holds the outer end in place. We can all agree on that. The strut rod can limit the extent to which the LCA slides on the pivot shaft (the inner end), but the bushing is going to let it wiggle a little. It won't be much, but I think it's enough to let the polygraphite bushing work itself out over time. The rubber bushing won't walk out because it is bonded to the shells.

When i replaced my LCA bushings with new Moog (rubber) I used a press to push em on the pivot shaft.
Half hour later I walk through the garage with a pivot shaft in my hand and the rubber bushing fell off the pivot shaft.. lol.

Sounds like a quality control issue and an untrustworthy part. I watched a video recently about this, IIRC the creator went through a few boxes of Moog bushings, and other brands; and got a bunch of different sizes for the same part number. There are so many bad parts floating around out there that it is not funny.