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Made the shakedown runs today.

wedge5

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Well they car held together! I did/do have a few kinks to work out though.

Don't know why it picked the time I was in the lanes getting ready to go but the car just wouldn't turn over. Pushed it out of the lanes and replaced the ignition switch and it fired so back into the lanes. Get to the same spot in the lanes and PRESTO, it won't turn over. Get it pushed out of the lanes AGAIN. Messed arond with it for 1 1/2 hours and found that I was lossing connection in the starter relay. Luckily I had a toggle switch in the trailer so I by passed it and used the toggle as my relay. Turn key on, flip the switch, car starts and turn switch off. Not the best but it worked in a pinch.

First run: Must have not got the tires hot enough. Spun off the line and got sideways. 1.58-60ft I didn't worry about the shift points. I feathered it down the track to make sure that I didn't have any vibrations and the car would track straight. At the 1/8th I decided to give some more pedal. 11.59 @116 It started to cut out/popping around the 1000ft mark. Acted like it was hitting the rev limiter. Had a 7000 chip in.

2nd pass: I took out the chip to see if that was it. Did a longer burnout, launched at 2000 and flashed the convertor. Didn't spin as bad 1.53-60ft better but still not right. Again I didn't look at the tac just went by sound. I was still feeling the car out. 11.40 @118 Little better but it was cutting out about the 1/8 this time. Now I am confussed.

3rd pass: This was my last pass. Did a long burnout. Same launch but this time it hooked or at least it felt like it. Not sure if I lifted or what but the 60ft time was 1.58???? The car jumped of the line so not sure what happened. Need to check my shift points/bulb cuz the light never came on so I just went on sound again. This time the car popped/cut out the whole time. I did look at the tac at the end of the run and it was real close to 7000. I almost got out of it cuz didn't want to go that high. No real reason. 11.51@116

Not for sure why the car is cutting out? Could it be the car is starving for fuel at higher RPM's? When I tried to set the fuel pressure before I could never get it to hold at 7.5 I would rev the motor and at 2500 or so the pressure would start to drop and the more I reved it the more it would drop. It is a 140gph Mallory pump, I did bye it used so not sure on the condition. Going back to the track on sunday to see if I can figure it out. I know the car has alot more in it when I get the little things fixed. Going to put my other tac in it also cuz it is a better one and I know how to set it and not sure on the one that is in the car.
 
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Not that this is an area of expertise for me, but that sure sounds like a bad fuel pump to me.
 
If it breaking up down track there's a better chance it's fuel related.

How big of fuel line are you running from the cell to the regulator and from the regulator to the carb?

Depending on your combination, you may not have enough pump... were running 2 Holley 140's with a 498 Hemi and a crossram.
 
I am running 1/2 alum line cell to carb. Fittings are -8's

Maybe I need to change out the whole fuel system. If that is the fix then I am on it. guess I wont know until I try. I have a roll of 5/8 alum line so I guess I will have to get some -10 fittings. The filter and reg have 3/8 inlets so if I swap to the -10 to -8 to fit them is that going to hurt the fuel flow? Would hate to ditch everything, figured I was going to need a big pump but hoped I could save to filter/reg.

One more thing on the pump. Sometimes the car doesn't want to idle. I have it set around 1000rpm and most of the time is idles great but out of no where the RPM's just drops off and dies. Starts right back up.
 
I'm not saying that fuel flow is your problem.... but that's where I'd be looking first.

Tell me more about your combination

What carb are you running and how big is the motor?

7.5 PSI is the high side of the max PSI I would run. We're running 6.5.

I would run the 5/8 line to the regulator, then run 3/8 to the carb. Filter should be between the cell and the pump.
What kind of filter are you running?

Where are your pressure guages located?

I have to run for now, I'll check in tonight.
 
Need more info,but sounds like it's goin lean in the higher RPM range.Need a plug reading and mabe fatten up the secondarys,,,,,,if they are even opening:icon_rambo:
 
i ran a -8 an fuel line in my 65 plymouth hemi for years with no issues.
going 9.90's. went to -10an and it made no difference.

i'm betting you need a better fuel pump.imo
im a dealer for product engineering, id hook you up with a great deal on one.
i switched from magnafuel and a bg and never looked back. its volume not pressure.
 
Sounds like it has alot more in it when you get it fixed. You still ran good for having problems. I know you can't wait to fix it and get back to the track ! Good luck , Ron
 
Just a thought, maybe that Mallory pump is a problem child....could be why it was sold off.
 
Sorry forgot the set up numbers. 500 ci eddy heads(max wedge+full port/polish)w/1.6 rockers,Indy 440-2 intake, 850 Demon worked over to approx 930cfm, .680 lift, 2" Dougs headers.

Checked the secondaries and they are open.

Malloy 140gph pump w/mallory reg for it and Malloy filler(think it is the 250 gph model)
 
Sorry forgot the set up numbers. 500 ci eddy heads(max wedge+full port/polish)w/1.6 rockers,Indy 440-2 intake, 850 Demon worked over to approx 930cfm, .680 lift, 2" Dougs headers.

Checked the secondaries and they are open.

Malloy 140gph pump w/mallory reg for it and Malloy filler(think it is the 250 gph model)

Before you start changing your fuel system first check your pump. Take the hose off at the regulator, put it in a gas can then turn the pump on for 1 minute, then check to see how muc fuel is in the can. a 140GPH pump should pump 2.3 gal a min.

Kevin
 
do you have a fuel pressure gauge that you can watch during a pass ?..if so, what is it doing during the pass ?..if not, get 1 put on the car, it's a great tuning/diagnosis tool. couple of other things that i don't see mentioned would be,.. have you taken off the valve covers and checked everything out? are the valves lashed properly.?..are there bent push rods?.not implying that it was done incorrectly..just thinkin outloud...with all that being said, i would bet it's your pump...sounds to me like it's getting worse the hotter (more passes you make) it gets. good luck today and keep us posted on what you find.
IMG_2959.jpg
 
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do you have a fuel pressure gauge that you can watch during a pass ?..if so, what is it doing during the pass ?..if not, get 1 put on the car, it's a great tuning/diagnosis tool. couple of other things that i don't see mentioned would be,.. have you taken off the valve covers and checked everything out? are the valves lashed properly.?..are there bent push rods?.not implying that it was done incorrectly..just thinkin outloud...with all that being said, i would bet it's your pump...sounds to me like it's getting worse the hotter (more passes you make) it gets. good luck today and keep us posted on what you find.
IMG_2959.jpg

Good point.... valve train would also a good place to look.

Don't spend money until you have the problem diagnosed. :idea1:
 
Well figured out the problem. The #5 plug wire was OFF.:icon_hang: Don't know how it got off but last week had a guy install the linelock while I was at work so maybe? Got it back on and tightened up some stuff that had worked it's way loose. Started it up and mine it sounded AWESOME a completely different animal

1st pass: Thought I got the tires hot but guess not. Tires spun 1.58 60ft but stayed in it. I set my shift point at 6400 but light never came on(something else to fix) shifted around 6700 and crossed at 7200. A little to hi for me and it felt like it was nosing over right before the line.
:pimp3: 10.89@122 Talked with my buddy after pass and he told me I hardly had any smoke off the tires.

2nd pass: Lowered tires to 15psi, did a better burnout(again I thought I did) launched and of course it spun and car got silly so backed off,got it straight and it got silly again so eased back into it. Wall was getting to close for my comfort. Got to get this launch figured out before I wad the car up. Buddy told me I had some smoke but not alot. 11.23@116

3rd pass: This time I did a big smokey burnout, had tires at 14psi. Launched and the car coughed 1.63 60ft(if it isn't one thing it's another) but I stayed in it. shifted at 6500 ish but just didn't feel right. Crossed the line at 7400-7500 and it started to sound funny. 11.11@120 When I was on the return lane the car was loud like I blew a header gasket or something. Got back to the pits found out I had a valve cover leak. Fixed it but the car sounded funny almost like it did before, like it was missing. One of the plug wires (#5) was touching the header so I pulled it off and started to car and it didn't change so I think I burned it. That one was touching the header when I found it off before. I will get a set of straight boot wires for the back 4 plugs then no worries about touching header tubes. It was getting late so I just loaded the car up

Oh well I got my 10 for the year and I have somethings to work on/tweak. I will go over the valves/springs and rockers next week to make sure everything is right. Heck might just be a header gasket. Thought it was best to load the car up and live to race another day before something real bad happens. I think the 4:56 gears are to steep might look into getting some 4:30's
 
You mentioned your fuel feed line size but did not mention your return line size, do you have one? If not, your going to need one in hot weather for sure.
 
I don't have a return line. Didn't think that it was a must but have thought about it. Just not sure how to route it cuz it comes out the back of the carb so how do I route it so it isn't running by the firewall?

What is the benefits of running the return line.
 
Wedge5,

I'm glad you found the miss and it was somthing simple.

You'll get the bugs worked out.

What kind of tires are you running? and what size?

What kind of suspension are you running?

If your only running a 140 GPH pump I wouldn't see why you would need a return line? Were running two 140's with no return line, fuel pressure never moves.

When it nosed over in the lights.. did it to it before or only when you went though at 7200?
I'm wonder if it was valve fload or if it's a little on the lean side, or fuel delvery.

Kevin
 
In the hot weather vapor lock is always a problem and the reason for a fuel return line.

I would guess you are using a fuel regulator and if not would install one. They are set up for the fuel return line and usually mounted to the passenger side inner fender which is perfect for standard Mopar fuel line routing down the frame rail to the standard tank with a factory fuel sender with the fuel feed and return line nipples. i assume you have your electric fuel mounted back close to the fuel tank as they work much better pushing rather than pulling.
 
28x10.5x15 M/T ET drags

Super Stock springs moved in board w/Comp Eng. 3 way shocks. Think I have them set at 30/70

It started to nose over before the line. I was wondering if it was running lean also. Not sure what jets are in the carb. I will have to check when I get back this weekend and get the car home. I need to also check my valve lash. I am going to put a fuel pressure gauge in the car or on the cowl for next year so I can monitor it. Was flipping a coin on this but now I know that I NEED ONE.

My cell/filter/pump/reg have 3/8(-08)inlets/outlets so If I put -10 fittings in my cell/filter/pump/reg then run the 5/8 alum line will this improve the flow or just neck it down to 3/8(-08)

On the vapor lock issue: I have ran other cars at the track in 90+ and never had a issue. but I have learned to never say never
 
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