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Metal in trans A727 pan

I really do not understand your logic at all. So we can agree to disagree.
I hate trans leaks and spongy/no shifts.I do not like doing things twice when it should have been done right the first time.Good luck with your build though,hope it all works out for you.
 
With the trans out, why not? As stated above, it is a pain in the arse to remove once in the vehicle so do it now when it is easy or do it later when it is difficult.
 
Had a 383 and 727 from a 68 Polara given to my son and I, so I put a manual valve body in the torqueflite, adjusted the bands and changed the filter. Then I put a used Hi Stall torque converter in there, (TCI street Fighter) that I found on C List, put it behind a good running 451, drove it to the drag strip and ran consistent low 12s for a few years. Never a problem. Was it a gamble? Yes. What's the worst thing that could happen? It goes out 20 miles from home, and I have to tow it. No big deal. Then I pull it out and try a different one. All 4 used 727s I've done this with in various cars, have worked fine. Never got stranded anywhere. The only one that gave me trouble was the one that came in the used RR when I bought it. It was starting to "run away" on the 2-3 upshift, but still always got me home. High clutch was going bad. These are very reliable units and if properly adjusted and oiled, usually perform quite well.
 
With the trans out, why not? As stated above, it is a pain in the arse to remove once in the vehicle so do it now when it is easy or do it later when it is difficult.
Because I’m over budget.
 
Had a 383 and 727 from a 68 Polara given to my son and I, so I put a manual valve body in the torqueflite, adjusted the bands and changed the filter. Then I put a used Hi Stall torque converter in there, (TCI street Fighter) that I found on C List, put it behind a good running 451, drove it to the drag strip and ran consistent low 12s for a few years. Never a problem. Was it a gamble? Yes. What's the worst thing that could happen? It goes out 20 miles from home, and I have to tow it. No big deal. Then I pull it out and try a different one. All 4 used 727s I've done this with in various cars, have worked fine. Never got stranded anywhere. The only one that gave me trouble was the one that came in the used RR when I bought it. It was starting to "run away" on the 2-3 upshift, but still always got me home. High clutch was going bad. These are very reliable units and if properly adjusted and oiled, usually perform quite well.
That’s how I feel too. Wish someone would just answer my question about the shaft shavings getting in the pan. Is that possible? I know nothing about transmissions.
 
I tend to push the edge, as you can see. I expect things to work out well, and they usually do. Of course you don't want to take it out on a 200 mile road trip right away. Drive it around town awhile and see how it feels. These cars can be expensive to build, so I'm always on the lookout on how to save a few dollars.
 
That’s how I feel too. Wish someone would just answer my question about the shaft shavings getting in the pan. Is that possible? I know nothing about transmissions.
On each and every used 727 I acquired, I pulled the pan off and changed the filter. There was always gray paste in the pan and metal particles in the filter. The gears meshing and the clutch packs and bands applying tend to sluff off these particles over time, especially when new. So if it's never been apart, then some particulate/paste is normal. All of my used ones had it. The one in the RR where the high clutch was going out, had alot of worn off friction material in there. Don't know why, it had been resting for 12 years before I woke it up! LOL. And the shavings may or may not be from the input shaft. It can be a little wobbly in the shaft that surrounds it. That outer shaft just supports part of the torque converter. I think it supports the Stator inside the converter, which is stationary in there.
 
Because I’m over budget.
You need to raise your debt limit....just like government does:lol:

But seriously, a complete rebuild kit can be had for $140 and the 727 is easy to do. And if you run into actual damaged parts then you will be glad you didn't just slap it back in.
 
You need to raise your debt limit....just like government does:lol:

But seriously, a complete rebuild kit can be had for $140 and the 727 is easy to do. And if you run into actual damaged parts then you will be glad you didn't just slap it back in.
Is there a good book/manual I can get? I’ve rebuilt a couple engines but dumb when it comes to transmissions.
 
Any shavings could go from shaft to tc & then into pan. 50/50 either way you go. The fluid circulates everywhere.
 
Change out the fliter, front seal and run it. Yes it's taking a chance but I think you'll be fine. Rebuild parts are cheap. But without a few special tools it can be challenging, but not impossible.
Doug
 
Is there a good book/manual I can get?
All you'll need...

727handbook.jpg
 
Adding to what dvw said, adjust the bands for sure.
 
When you change the front seal look at front pump bushing. If someone pulled the engine or trans and left torque convertor on engine could kill the bushing. It happen to me when I first got my car running. Had a leaking shift lever seal, pulled the pan, metal chips. Replace bushing, easy job if you follow service manual carefully. Guess I got lucky pulled pan recently no garbage in pan.
 
New Photo Image 11-17.jpg
fullsizeoutput_4af6.jpeg

This book will also help explain a lot of things you'll wonder about while tearing it down.:)
 
That’s how I feel too. Wish someone would just answer my question about the shaft shavings getting in the pan. Is that possible? I know nothing about transmissions.
The shavings did not come from the reaction shaft support. Very seldom will a 727 fail a hard part. Some little shrapnel and grey mud is normal with use. Flakes that look like small leaves are bad. Big aluminum chunks are bad. A huge pile of steel shavings is bad.
Doug
 
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