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Miffed at the machine shop

Steve - I joined the red X club when that thread was going around so I’m now immune to someone disagreeing with me lol. I don’t disagree with you that a consultation could be beneficial IF he isn’t getting anywhere with the guy he’s trying to work with now
 
I just got back from our meeting.
Reading the comments, to clarify, The original owner of the shop had retired. He had leased the shop out on a 10 year lease with option to buy to the "GUY" about 3 years ago. The work I had commissioned were only with the "guy". I have never heard of or seen the owner, until last week. The owner, when he had came in, found the shop in a complete mess, no paperwork, tons of work needing to get done. What the "Guy" was doing is robbing Peter to pay Paul, and Peter ran out of money. I was told the "Guy" was behind on his lease payments as well. That is when the original owner canceled the contract (fired "guy") and has taken back the shop. The owner suggested to call the police, and speak with a specific officer about the money. The owner has filed a complaint as well. He also said I can take the "guy" to small claims court, but said if I do get any of the $400 back it belongs to the shop. (as he is giving me the credit of the $400 towards the build)


Now on to not so juicy part of the problem.
The owner has stated he will give me the $400 in credit for the missing money. He asked if I wanted to pick up my engine or let him complete the job. I told him I wanted to make sure that every thing is on the up and up, and I want to make sure that my engine will be built with quality parts and not the cheap stuff from china. I don't want money saving parts in the engine as I plan to race it at the strip. I also am having him test the springs on the heads to make sure they will match the roller cam and lifters. What he has left to do is get the correct push rods, clearance the heads for the push rods, reassemble run on the dyno. The owner said it should only take him 2 weeks to get it done. I told him to complete the work and if its not done in 2 weeks, I will pick it up and have some one else finish it.
 
Steve - I joined the red X club when that thread was going around so I’m now immune to someone disagreeing with me lol. I don’t disagree with you that a consultation could be beneficial IF he isn’t getting anywhere with the guy he’s trying to work with now
I keep RedX's in perspective. I know you would never take it personally unlike some others. If he can work it out then thats great. We both agree I'm sure we cant stand to see anyone ripped off. So much of that already seems to go around in this hobby
 
UPDATE:
I stopped by the shop yesterday. He has the heads clearanced for the push rods. He has tested the springs to make sure they are in spec with the new cam and lifters. He needs to get final assembly done on the engine. Tuesday or Wednesday next week he will be running it on the dyno for tuning. The local track is now closed for the season. They are getting it repaved!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Back in the old days we would just throw a used up crankshaft through the store fronts very large plate glass windows.
 
Went down to the shop to watch the dyno run, It collapsed the hydraulic roller exhaust lifter on cylinder #8, on the third pull. I am not happy with the power numbers. I was getting 490HP with the flat tappet cam, The roller set up only made 477HP. The amount of tq was also down, but the big issue was the max tq came in 1000 rpm less, and dropped off fairly quick with this cam set up. A whole lot quicker than the flat line the flat tappet cam made. I will get specs so you guys can see the cam difference.
The new guy has ordered a new lifter set and head gaskets. Should be here some time today. If all the parts come in we will try running it again tomorrow.
 
When you get it all done, post the sheet and the combo.

Seems like its been a lot of hit-or-miss on the hyd roller lifter situation in the last couple years.
 
Chrysler flat tappets are pretty damn good.
If I understand you, the old flat tappet cam gave flatter torque and more HP and torque?
When I build my stroker motor, I will use mechanical lifters, whether roller or not, because Jim LaRoy said so, and that's all I need to know.
Good luck and I am :popcorn2::popcorn:
 
What was the reason for going hydraulic roller over solid roller?
 
Chrysler flat tappets are pretty damn good.
If I understand you, the old flat tappet cam gave flatter torque and more HP and torque?
When I build my stroker motor, I will use mechanical lifters, whether roller or not, because Jim LaRoy said so, and that's all I need to know.
Good luck and I am :popcorn2::popcorn:

I am not as seasoned as many on here are which is why I went solid flat tappet. It's really hard to fudge it up and there isn't a chance for one to collapse or pump up. I'm running a Hughes solid lifter cam with Hughes EDM solid lifters and am very happy with it and hope they have a long life.
 
I’ve got mechanical lifters in all my stuff.
2 roller and the mopar is a Crower solid flat with EDM lifters.
I’m done with hydraulic cams.
 
Before I got "the word" from Jim LaRoy, I had already had my wife's Pontiac 421 Tripower rebuilt, and along with the engine builder the decision was made to go with a CompCams hydraulic ROLLER cam and lifters. So far, so good, but on my Mopar, my next cam and lifter setup will definitely be solid lifters.
 
The work done by the first guy seemed to be ok, you liked it. Now that your dealing with the so called owner, things aren't going so well. Maybe it's the owner that's the crackhead and was screwing the first guy over, and now he's screwing you.
Just an observation from what I read.
 
When you get it all done, post the sheet and the combo.

Seems like its been a lot of hit-or-miss on the hyd roller lifter situation in the last couple years.
Just got done with the dyno pulls today. Max hp was 489.9 @5200 522.2 TQ @3900

If I understand you, the old flat tappet cam gave flatter torque and more HP and torque?
:popcorn2::popcorn:
Yes the old cam that wiped a lobe max hp was 490 and 535tq. The TQ on the flat tappet cam was a solid line straight across the page and was making 400 ftpounds @3000 rpm. The new cam peeked and dropped a lot after making max tq.

What was the reason for going hydraulic roller over solid roller?
My engine is a street\strip set up. My Dad wanted a roller set up after eating a lobe. I didn't want to adjust the valves every weekend. After watching the engine masters episode on solid vs hyd roller We compromised on a hyd roller set up. If it were me I'd gone solid roller, It was originally set up that way.
 
Absolutely no need to adjust valves every weekend.

I run through my valvetrain once a year or so, and they never need more than minor adjustment.
 
The work done by the first guy seemed to be ok, you liked it. Now that your dealing with the so called owner, things aren't going so well. Maybe it's the owner that's the crackhead and was screwing the first guy over, and now he's screwing you.
Just an observation from what I read.
Yes I was happy with my first experience with the "GUY". But my engine ate a cam lobe so I needed it fixed. It was the 2nd time that I had work done that I ran into issues with the "GUY". I dropped my engine off on May 3rd. Every time I called, or went in, I got some sort of BS excuse as to why my engine wasn't getting worked on. Oh I needed special custom made push rods... Oh they sent me the wrong ones. I have to order from some dude in Ohio who builds nascar engines.... on and on... It went on like this until I met the actual owner. That's when I found out what was going on behind the doors. The actual owner has been straight up with every thing going on. He didn't charge me more than the original quoted amount by the "GUY" other than the cost of an extra head gasket and a few nuts and bolts that needed to be replaced. He didn't charge me for the failed lifter or the labor to change it out. I picked up my engine at lunch time today after a solid 12 dyno pulls to make sure its right. The owner said that the roller cam that was installed was a smaller "safe" cam for street and strip use.( I didn't have any thing to do with cam selection it was the "guy" who ordered it). He said if I wanted to I can go bigger on a new cam.... but I declined as I'm way over budget as it is.
I am happy with the way things turned out I have my engine back with a full roller set up for less than $2K installed with dyno runs. It ultimately worked out.
 
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Excellent result- I hope the new owner gets all the screw ups straightened out- stand up guy- he could have washed his hands and stayed retired
(the way I read it)
let us know how it works on the road- post up a dyno sheet- that cam might work just fine on the street
btw on the solid cam issue- from the 60's
On the twin 4 x 4 chevies we adjusted the stock rockers most every run
tried to run it as a V16 but much easier to run the valves set up as two V8's with same #1 TDC
now pro stocks run faster and quicker
RIP Lefty, Chet
 
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