Mini tub back seat

[Hemirunner]

Do any of you guys have pictures of your turbo set up with a BBM? I know I am going to have troruble fitting everything in.

Nothing I have is going to help you any. My turbos will be under the front fenders, the intercoolers will be in the nose, and there won't be a ton of stuff under the hood. If I was doing a wedge in a regular B body, I'd look at copying Bo Peebles charger. Nicely done.

 

[Tzclark]

That looks great! Tight fit but doable.

 

[HYRDGOON]

I just Googled Bo's car. Lots of pics and some video. That's a bad ride!

 

[Average Joe]

Sounds good Goon. What are you guys doing for subframe connectors? Weld in or bolt on?

I did weld in connectors on my Charger and added bracing to the front end. U.S. Car tool makes a good kit for frame stiffening.Bolt in connectors work great but your going to be doing a lot of welding anyway so it would probably be just as easy for you to get the weld in.

 

[Hemirunner]

I used the US car tool connectors in my green car and then added a 6pt bar. We've still flexed it hard on the track due to the weight. My black car is getting an SFI 25.3 (minus the funny car cage part for now) so I'm not even going to bother with subframe connectors.

 

[Tzclark]

Thanks for the recommendation, I was eyeing up those yesterday online. Our dollar is so weak currently so parts purchasing is killing me.

Everyone around me is trying to convince me to do a modern hemi with a blow thru over the 440. I am a big block guy but I definitely understand the potential of the hemi.

 

[Average Joe]

Here is a 5.7 with 6.1 top end that I built. I am considering doing twin turbos on this one.I am putting this engine in a 67 barracuda.I love big blocks too but when I built this I realized that these Hemis are really awesome motors.

 

[Tzclark]

Everything I read about them is good, easy to make good numbers. What do you figure the bottom ends can handle?

 

[biomedtechguy]

... But you can always duck tape someone to the half barrel... That's like a seat

lmao!

 

[Average Joe]

Everything I read about them is good, easy to make good numbers. What do you figure the bottom ends can handle?

I did the 5.7 because blocks are more available. If you buy a non running 5.7 the heads are usually warped. For me I just want the block. ( I paid 200.00 for my block and have a spare that I bought for a 100.00 dollars)
The stock 5.7 rotating assembly is maxed out around 450 Hp Reliable. What I did to save money was I bought a used low miles 6.1 Crankshaft ( there factory forged steel same stroke and journal size as 5.7) Wiseco makes stock 5.7 bore forged pistons (Comes with rings)and Scat industries makes stock 4340 forged rods( press in pins though).
Crankshaft=400.00
Pistons= 700.00
Rods= 400.00
So for 1500.00 I have an all forged rotating assembly that will handle up to 600 - 700 HP Reliable. The 392 Stroker kit is about 2600.00
The heads are reasonable. I bought my 6.1 CNC ported heads with upgraded springs new for 2500.00( there both right heads and one was converted to a left)
There are things about these motors that in my opinion are musts.
The head bolts are torque to yield so the block should have heads studs. And the mains should be changed to studs as well.
I do the same things when I build a Big block. The down side is there isn't a lot of aftermarket support. But its starting to come around.The up side is the factory stuff accepts performance like the LS motors.

 

[Hemirunner]

Very nice. That'll thing will be a monster with twins strapped on it. Those intakes lend themselves very well to turbo plumbing.

 

[Tzclark]

Are you guys running Dana 60s? It would hurt my feelings to run a Ford 9" in a
mopar.

 

[Hemirunner]

I currently run a Dana 60 in my roadrunner. The turbo car will be getting a fabricated 9" with Caltrac split monos and bars. There are many more gear ratio choices with the 9" vs a dana and most turbo cars want a numerically low ratio around 3.08 to 3.20 to put a high load on the engine. The dana can go to 3.54 and that's it. The 9" is quite a bit lighter as well and the cost to build is the same.

 

[Average Joe]

I run an 8 3/4 with a braced housing and a Eaton true trac 4:10 gears. Not sure if it would hold the power if I hooked up with a set of slicks but I believe the tremec would be the first thing to grenade if I did.

 

[Tzclark]

I figured 3.54 would be low enough but you think something numerically lower would be better. I have a Dana 60 kicking around that's why I was
considering it. I guess I'll be looking for a 9".

Hemi and Joe what are your overall HP goals?

 

[Average Joe]

I figured 3.54 would be low enough but you think something numerically lower would be better. I have a Dana 60 kicking around that's why I was
considering it. I guess I'll be looking for a 9".

Hemi and Joe what are your overall HP goals?

With my Charger I have a supercharged Gen ll Hemi.I just put 903hp to the wheels.Its the green one with the thread EFI the steep learning curve! I just posted the dyno run where it made 903hp.
With the Gen lll 5.7 Hemi. Its for my wifes A-body barracuda and I looking to do around 600hp rear wheel with the turbos.So small twins is what I am planning to do.

 

[Tzclark]

Nice work Joe, I personally would like to be in that range but not sure if my wallet is fat enough. Currently my limiting factor is the block, it will be girdled with billet mains. Our dollar is in the tank so bad right now that a KB block would set me back too far to consider.

 

[Hemirunner]

My initial goal is 1800 to the flywheel. If I can't get that, I may have to go up on turbocharger size. Mine are Precision 7675CEA's with the billet wheel and .96 AR. This hot side will be my HP cork. I think the 9" is the way to go but if I already had a 3.54 geared dana, it would go in for now.

 

[Tzclark]

I am going to drop off the block at the machine shop that I use to begin the process this week. I guess my question now is, do I stroke the 440 to a 505? Since I am replacing the entire bottom end with forged parts the only really price adder would be the added machining time. Would I be better off with the 440 and concentrate the funds on lighter parts to get some safe RPM's out of the 440?

On a side note, I just read through this entire thread, and it's apparent that I need to stop responding on my phone while at work. I am surprised it was decipherable for you guys.

Zach

 

[Average Joe]

I would do the stroker kit.Its going to be around the same price as doing a stock forged assembly. The 440 block is good up to about 700hp reliable with the girdle.The webbing between the main journals and cam journals is where the week point is.If you had a 72 400 block with a stroker kit that block is good up to 800+hp reliable.I had a 440 block originally with the Procharger and there are quite a few people running 700+hp boosted 440 without any issues.The girdle is definitely important to keep the the main caps from walking.I built my 440 stroker without the girdle and When I took my motor apart there was wear on the side of the bearings from caps walking a little under boost.