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Modern Bullitt build

So is that stuff what you use to seal up the trim after polishing? I'm debating on tackling the trim myself but I'm not sure what to do to seal it back up. I've heard of guys using oven cleaner to remove the original anodizing from the trim. Make sure you post pics of the process, Pat!
 
So is that stuff what you use to seal up the trim after polishing? I'm debating on tackling the trim myself but I'm not sure what to do to seal it back up. I've heard of guys using oven cleaner to remove the original anodizing from the trim. Make sure you post pics of the process, Pat!

No need to seal stainless steel after you’ve polished it as there is no coating over it. Anodizing is applied over aluminum and the only anodized aluminum trim on our second gen chargers is around the grill.
 
Oh I had no idea, I thought everything was coated...good to know!
 
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The original Inland shifter had a mechanical reverse lockout which was disengaged with the T handle. The Tremec 6 speed also has an reverse lockout, but it is operated by a 12v solenoid. So I modified a door jam domelight switch to fit inside and added a top spring to hold tension on the T handle. This will either directly operate the negative side of the solenoid or a relay? I haven’t quite decided how I will wire that in yet. I just need to add a slight dogleg bend to the shifter, weld on the 2x1x1/2” mount block and then send it out for Chrome;-)
Thanks


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As usual, I am impressed with your imagination and ingenuity! When you couple that with great skill you get the car you are building!

NICE!
 
The original Inland shifter had a mechanical reverse lockout which was disengaged with the T handle. The Tremec 6 speed also has an reverse lockout, but it is operated by a 12v solenoid. So I modified a door jam domelight switch to fit inside and added a top spring to hold tension on the T handle. This will either directly operate the negative side of the solenoid or a relay? I haven’t quite decided how I will wire that in yet. I just need to add a slight dogleg bend to the shifter, weld on the 2x1x1/2” mount block and then send it out for Chrome;-)
Thanks


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Absolutely amazing!......Pat you are a Phenom
 
The level of detail you have done, and continue to do is second to none. Honestly, I am in awe of your skills and creativity.


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:thumbsup:
 
I’m using the American Autowire classic update series harness. Very nice harness as it uses all of the original connectors. None of the ends are installed so you can adjust the length of the wires as you see fit, along with having all of the additional wires needed for a modern car such as electric fan, electric fuel pump, door locks, power seats and power windows. It looks original with the same color code, but with one nice addition all of the wires are labeled every 4 inches. Instrument panel worked out great!
A few modifications along with a couple brackets I made to hold the new fuse box securely, with access from the glove box.
Need to paint the gray plastic face plate black to finish it off.
Thanks
Pat


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again killer fab work. i used that harness also nice product

American Autowire makes a great harness, this is the 2nd car I have used their classic upgrade series. 1st car was my Son’s 68 Bullitt mustang. I like how all the connectors are factory type crimps with the right tool!
Thanks
 
Started the restoration on the grill which is in very good condition but as with most Charger grills there are a few cracks that need to be repaired. After cleaning up and painting most of the hardware I started by fixing some of the cracks and broken parts using steel wire to get a mechanical fastener prior to using epoxy with chopped fibers.
Thanks


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Melting staples into the plastic using a soldering iron to hold the cracked parts of the plastic together prior to epoxy. After melting the staple flush with the outer surface I would bend over the staple on the inside and again melt and bend it flush.


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