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Modifying 383, need advice

I have a stock 1969 383 which is getting some mods, dual quad tunnel ram intake, a pair of 660 Holleys and headers It already has MSD AL7-2 ignition and dual electric fuel pumps (it was a race car with a built 440 which is gone).
What cam would best work with this setup and anything else that has to be done. Not planning on racing it, just street use.

first -if you are going to use an automatic trans- the tunnel ram will give you nothing but pain they stumble horribly with automatic. the only fix for that is a high stall converter and a super rich idle- not suitable for street. far better off with the best single 4 bbl manifold ever made- the tarantula with a 750 CFM Holley or Carter. the holleys perform better when racing the carters run better on the street and are not prone to panic attacks like the Holley.
best cam for this is the Mopar purple shaft with .505 lift. other opinions may vary- I've only been at this since 1963..
 
Build it anyway you see fit. You know you are allowed 1 chance at least. If it doesn't work what the heck, chalk it up to learning something.

I have listened to too many old farts over the years that thought they knew everthing. Most knew crap because someone else told them it would not work so they never tried.
 
I disagree with Geri about tunnel rams. You do need the right carbs & some tuning. They can work fine if your combination is good. I do agree with Geri that a TM-6 with a 750 to 850 DP will work VERY well and is easier to tune. The TM-6 is not at all big by today's standards, but works extremely well. Good hood clearance too. I welded the intake "lumps" and ground the intake runners straight, angle ground the intake mounting bolts to get those bolts in. TM-6 worked great on my 452 low deck motors.
 
Tunnel ram with a pair of fitechs !! Dare to be different and to hell with tuning, make dem ******* figger it out themselves!
 
cam- decide roller with a tunnel ram or hyd with a 4 bbl (hint- do 4bbl first)
get a cam with a grind designed for a MOPAR .914 lifter not a chevy one size fits all master
duration depends on what rev range you want- gears, trans etc so no recommendation there
906 heads- no quench so plan on really good gas and they work better with lower gears, stall converter etc
Do not think of them for a street geared ride- they ping like crazy at lower revs so you back off the timing they your ride runs hotter so... there is no answer. Dropping the piston down the hole- what the factory tried- have you ever ridden in a 400?
felt the burn. The more you drop the piston down the hole the more throttle you have to use to get the same power which equals more heat...
best to run wedge heads with a tight quench
you can drop your exhaust temp 800 degrees with tight quench and a narrow overlap (keep the valves on the seats) grind
Mopars tend to run hot on the two middle cylinders (as do small block chev and mopar.
 
Go with the tunnel ram if that's the look YOU want. A cam designed to work with your 3,000 rpm stall converter and 727, combined with some lower rear end gears (think 3:91 or lower) will work fine with some tuning. There are a lot of nay sayers out there who have never run these combinations.... Here's my ticket to the club:

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