Molded windage tray/Gasket with a 4.15 stroke................

[Kern Dog]

Hey there!
I have a 440/493 with a 4.15 stroke crank.
Since nobody likes oil leaks, I bought one of those molded windage tray & gasket combo and while I do recall telling the vendor that I needed one for a longer stroke, this one has me wondering if it is right.

I'm not sure how much "Dish" it is supposed to have. I set it on a #402 oil pan and the dish rests against the bottom of the front and rear of the pan. Obviously the 402 is a mid sump pan.

Common sense tells me that if a 4.15 stroke crank clears a #402 oil pan and since this rests against the bottom, it would be okay?

 

[Kern Dog]

Closer picture:

 

[7t500]

Not entirely sure what it is you are trying to clear but I'm guessing it's a 4.15 stroke. However, that looks very similar to what I ordered from Summit (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2340/). Mine clears a 440 Source 400-470 stroker (3.915" stroke/6.535" rod).

So far (not quite 500 miles since the engine swap) I haven't noticed any leaks... wish I could say that about the trans pan tho... stupid stamped chrome pan... I hate stamped steel chromed...

 

[Bee1971]

I tried one of those molded gaskets with my 383 - 402 Oil Pan , and it leaked - Only a 3.75 Stroke , so that wasn’t the issue

There are areas if you look , that the molded o rings didn’t match or align proper around the dimpled areas of the 402 Oil Pan

Others have had good luck , I didn’t

Some will say it’s only intended for a flat flange oil pan

Anyways

 

[Fran Blacker]

If it's a 1/2" deeper than a standard you should be good, right?

 

[Kern Dog]

I have a Milodon 6 quart "Hemi" pan on mine, I just tested it on a 402 pan to see how it fit.

 

[Kern Dog]

If it's a 1/2" deeper than a standard you should be good, right?

I guess. If someone had one that was for a stock stroke and it had a shallower dish, that would tell me something.

 

[Jeremiah]

1) That gasket is not a good fit for the stock stamped oil pan. IIRC the corners are an issue? Maybe put superformance gaskets on both sides to remedy the issue?

2) Any stock style windage tray will fit up to a 4.25" stroke pan with a 2.200" steel rod. Not sure about a 2.375" crank pin.

 

[BSB67]

If it's a 1/2" deeper than a standard you should be good, right?

Yes, but less than a 1/4" is all you need.

 

[Kern Dog]

1) That gasket is not a good fit for the stock stamped oil pan. IIRC the corners are an issue? Maybe put superformance gaskets on both sides to remedy the issue?

2) Any stock style windage tray will fit up to a 4.25" stroke pan with a 2.200" steel rod. Not sure about a 2.375" crank pin.

#1 Srange...It looked like it would work when laid over the #402 pan. Evert hole lined up. Part of the appeal of this is avoiding the gasket sandwich....If that feature is lost, I might as well use the steel tray with gaskets.

#2That doesn't seem right. The steel windage tray for stock stroke looks different than the longer stroke one at least with the Mopar Performance parts.

 

[451Mopar]

#1 Srange...It looked like it would work when laid over the #402 pan. Evert hole lined up. Part of the appeal of this is avoiding the gasket sandwich....If that feature is lost, I might as well use the steel tray with gaskets.

#2That doesn't seem right. The steel windage tray for stock stroke looks different than the longer stroke one at least with the Mopar Performance parts.

I have used those windage tray/gaskets on two engines, and about to do another. Both sealed really well, but I used the Mopar Performance Street Hemi 6-Quart oil pan, and the other pan used was an off-brand, not sure if it was 5 or 6 quart? Next engine has the Milodon 7-quart low profile pan.
I do use a Dremel with cut-off wheel and make the return slots slightly wider in the windage tray part. On the 440 with the off brand oil pan, I used no sealers at all and it sealed fine. The 440 with the Hemi oil pan I put some rtv where the front cover and rear cap meet the block, but found the rtv, while still sealing fine, messes up (like melts into) the built-in gasket in the windage tray.

 

[Kern Dog]

I do use a Dremel with cut-off wheel and make the return slots slightly wider in the windage tray part.

Good idea. The slots seem kind of narrow.

How much did you open them up?
This one only has slots on one side. The other is solid.

 

[Kern Dog]

The slots in the plastic tray are HUGE compared to the ones in this steel tray!

It looks like maybe 1/16" of a slot. Holy crap that is thin!

I banged out a dent in the oil pan. I am tempted to replace it but it doesn't look too bad. If I didn't have that deflector/skid plate on the K member, the dent may have been worse!

 

[Kern Dog]

The dish in the steel tray is 1 1/2". The plastic one is 1 3/8". It will be fine. I stripped the paint from the pan, cleaned it and sprayed it with metal etch primer. I'll shoot it with Street Hemi Orange. All the bolts are soaking in gasoline. I love using gas to clean oily stuff!
I'm going to use Locktite on the oil pan bolts.

 

[wyrmrider]

good idea
and do not overtighten but then you know that

 

[Kern Dog]

These go on dry, right? The soft rubber ridges are what seals the oil in, correct ?

 

[Kern Dog]

I did test fit it to the engine and it does clear the crank and rods!

 

[451Mopar]

These go on dry, right? The soft rubber ridges are what seals the oil in, correct ?
View attachment 854321 View attachment 854322

Last one I did, I put on dry just to see how it sealed (we were not sure if the oil pan would fit in the '65 B-Body), and did not have any issues. You can use sealer, but the sealer messes up the soft rubber seal making it more difficult to re-use the windage tray / gasket.

 

[dvw]

Personally I'd RTV the pan side, the rear main seal bridge, and the timing cover junction. None of those areas are very flat. To be honest I use Fel-Pro black gaskets with RTV (ultra grey) on all 4 surfaces. No leaks ever. Either way bend the windage slots to 3/8" gap. Easy to see if the tray clears. Bolt it on w/o the pan and roll the motor over.
Doug

 

[451Mopar]

Personally I'd RTV the pan side, the rear main seal bridge, and the timing cover junction. None of those areas are very flat. To be honest I use Fel-Pro black gaskets with RTV (ultra grey) on all 4 surfaces. No leaks ever. Either way bend the windage slots to 3/8" gap. Easy to see if the tray clears. Bolt it on w/o the pan and roll the motor over.
Doug

The tray is not metal like the stock ones where you just use a screwdriver to bend the slots larger.
When I get home, I will take a photo of an old molded tray gasket that is modified and how the rtv affects the rubber seal.