Molded windage tray/Gasket with a 4.15 stroke................

[wyrmrider]

no rtv anywhere
especially if oil
unless instructed like at the ends of some gaskets
then you have to get the oil proof RTF/ Silicone
YOU CAN USE HYLOMAR which will seal and also make it easy to remove/ reuse

 

[mopar 3 B]

Has anyone ran one long enough to see how the non-metal holds up to the continues heat, cool and vibration? Also does the rubber have the embedded metal compression stops of some newer gaskets to prevent over torqueing?
I still do not get the need for sealers except at joints. Otherwise let the gasket do it job.

 

[Kern Dog]

Also does the rubber have the embedded metal compression stops of some newer gaskets to prevent over torqueing?

Yes.

 

[Kern Dog]

The oil pan is ON !

I cleaned all the bolts and smeared blue Locktite on them....That was the first time that I have ever used the stuff on oil pan bolts.

Before I put the pan back on, I wrote a little note:

I write notes like this at work, in attics, in walls before sheetrock, places that may not get seen again for several years.

 

[Kern Dog]

Now I see that it is actually October 23rd but who cares....

 

[dvw]

There are plenty of the rubber coated metal based gaskets around/They work great if the surface is straight and stiff enough. Take a 727 reusable gasket. Use it with a new style 518 pan and it works great dry. Use it with an old flimsy pan, it'll leak. That's why I recommended the use of RTV. Trust me Ultra grey sticks to rubber w/o issue. Rubber won't seal against flimsy bent/warped metal by itself.
Doug

 

[Kern Dog]

No leaks....Not from the pan anyway. I installed this windage tray dry. ZERO sealant. The engine still weeps a little oil at the timing cover but is otherwise clean.

 

[451Mopar]

No leaks....Not from the pan anyway. I installed this windage tray dry. ZERO sealant. The engine still weeps a little oil at the timing cover but is otherwise clean.

can you be more specific about where the timing cover weeps oil? is it at the oil pan gasket, or from the side of the timing cover?
If it is around the fuel pump, did you use sealer on the fuel pump bolt threads?

 

[Kern Dog]

I think that it is from the fuel pump. Now that I think about it, I never have used a sealant on the bolts there and it makes sense to do so since they do thread openly into the crankcase as do the intake bolts.

 

[Durandal25]

Going with the same tray Kern did. Lots of good feedback on it. Plus, the silicone sandwich is such a bastard to get off......

 

[moparlee]

Going with the same tray Kern did. Lots of good feedback on it. Plus, the silicone sandwich is such a bastard to get off......

Have you by chance installed this one piece tray/gasket combination yet and if so what are the results? Is your pan dimpled? Sounds like Kern Dog had no leaks on a dimpled pan.
I am thinking of using one of these on my 440 factory 6 qt hemi pan.

 

[Durandal25]

I’ve not installed it yet, but I always true up my pans prior to installation. I use a straight edge , 1/4 socket and a small punch ....never had a leak.

 

[moparlee]

I’ve not installed it yet, but I always true up my pans prior to installation. I use a straight edge , 1/4 socket and a small punch ....never had a leak.

Yes, I know what you mean about flattening the bolt hole dimples to get a flat pan surface.
I was wondering about the factory long dimpled areas between all of the bolt holes. See Kern Dog's 3rd picture in post #24. Are there any issues with the tray gasket ribs sealing in these areas? @Kern Dog

 

[Durandal25]

Ridges are well centered and should provide ample sealing.

 

[Kern Dog]

Yes, I know what you mean about flattening the bolt hole dimples to get a flat pan surface.
I was wondering about the factory long dimpled areas between all of the bolt holes. See Kern Dog's 3rd picture in post #24. Are there any issues with the tray gasket ribs sealing in these areas? @Kern Dog

Mine seals great now. I still get some slight leaks from the valve covers though.

 

[Kern Dog]

**********UPDATE************
Seals great MY ***.
I'm nearing the end of the Tremec 5 speed swap in my '70 Charger and had to pull the pan to fix a dent that was caused by supporting the engine with a tall screw jack. The oil pan had been leaking a bit but only when driving the car. Idling or cruising slow didn't seem to be a problem. Look at the oil streaks on the right side headers though...

The oil pan side rails seemed dry but the ends wept oil.

 

[Kern Dog]

I took the pan off. Notice how the tray is wet.
Rear side first:

Notice the dry area between the ribs on the side area. The side was sealing.

The front:

 

[Kern Dog]

Here is why.
The pan was cleaned and then set directly over the tray with the holes lined up.
This is the back of the pan.

The outer sealing rib sits outside of the pan rail.

 

[Kern Dog]

Front end of the pan. Same thing.

As stated, with the engine idling or just low speed cruising, the oil seemed to stay in the pan. Cornering, rapid starts, quick stops where the oil moves around a bit.....The oil weeps out and burns against the headers.
This is a generic tray I bought at a swap meet in Van Nuys, CA about 3 years ago from a respected NEW parts vendor. It has no identifying marks that I can see to determine who made it. Be careful when you buy one of these. CHECK to see if the sealing ribs are like this one. The oil pan is a Milodon 6 quart HEMI pan.

 

[Bee1971]

Didn’t seal my 402 Oil Pan either

Was quite obvious around the dipstick tube hole it wasn’t going to seal

Edit

I already responded back in 2019