Mopar 440 one header pipe is glowing red at idle.

[67charger440]

Greetings all- new Mopar owner here.

I just bought a 67 charger with a 440 big block that the guy sold because of health reasons. I think the 440 is of the motor home flavor from the late 70’s. Any who, I just put some summit racing headers on and fired it up for the first time. After idling for ~ 5 minutes, the number 7 header is glowing red. Engine is around 190° I know the typical answers are timing, and it is too lean, however I am skeptical this is the case due to only one pipe glowing.
Either tomorrow or the next day I am going to check timing with a light, and compression on that cylinder. Any old head have any other advice for me? Plugs show a lean running engine. I am also wondering if the proximity of the other header pipe could be causing the # 7 pipe to heat up from the radiating heat.

 

[67charger440]

Greetings all- new Mopar owner here.

I just bought a 67 charger with a 440 big block that the guy sold because of health reasons. I think the 440 is of the motor home flavor from the late 70’s. Any who, I just put some summit racing headers on and fired it up for the first time. After idling for ~ 5 minutes, the number 7 header is glowing red. Engine is around 190° I know the typical answers are timing, and it is too lean, however I am skeptical this is the case due to only one pipe glowing.
Either tomorrow or the next day I am going to check timing with a light, and compression on that cylinder. Any old head have any other advice for me? Plugs show a lean running engine. I am also wondering if the proximity of the other header pipe could be causing the # 7 pipe to heat up from the radiating heat.

red is the one glowing and yellow is the one that is close to the #7 cylinder.

View attachment 1149858 View attachment 1149859

 

[33 IMP]

Agree with compression check. Running on eight? I would look for a misadjusted exhaust valve, or hanging open.

 

[Mike67]

Possible stuck exhaust valve. May need to give the valve a whack with a mallet to free up.

 

[67charger440]

Agree with compression check. Running on eight? I would look for a misadjusted exhaust valve, or hanging open.

Sounds like it’s running on eight. I checked the valve train and Tightened them to the 25 FT pounds. Is there a way to independently adjust the valves?

 

[Cranky]

Is there a way to independently adjust the valves?

Not with a stock valve train....unless someone installed adjustable rockers or push rods.

 

[67charger440]

Not with a stock valve train....unless someone installed adjustable rockers or push rods.

Yes sir, they are stock.

 

[Cranky]

Yes sir, they are stock.

When you do a compression check, that will tell you if you're losing PSI in that cylinder. Be sure to do the check with a warmed up to operating temp engine. If that cylinder is low, squirt some oil into it and run the check again on that cylinder to see if it comes up.

 

[1967coronet]

Just run it through with a bump switch and ck lifter preload.
To much will hang valves open once they pump up if hydraulic.
Start with #7 .
And yes , ck. that timing and fuel mix.

 

[67charger440]

Just run it through with a bump switch and ck lifter preload.
To much will hang valves open once they pump up if hydraulic.
Start with #7 .
And yes , ck. that timing and fuel mix.

Thanks for the reply. If the preload is off, I can’t do anything about it with a stock valve train right?

 

[67charger440]

When you do a compression check, that will tell you if you're losing PSI in that cylinder. Be sure to do the check with a warmed up to operating temp engine. If that cylinder is low, squirt some oil into it and run the check again on that cylinder to see if it comes up.

Will do. If it bumps up with oil, it’s a ring issue correct?

 

[1967coronet]

Thanks for the reply. If the preload is off, I can’t do anything about it with a stock valve train right?

If it's just one cyl, that compression test that cranky posted is needed for sure. Could have a valve sinking in the seat.
If they are all or most to tight , guys used to shim the shafts or spring seats up a touch.
The right way to fix it is measure for the correct length of push rods and order some.
Pretty much the only time that stuff happens is with new after market cam and springs.

 

[67charger440]

If it's just one cyl, that compression test that cranky posted is needed for sure. Could have a valve sinking in the seat.
If they are all or most to tight , guys used to shim the shafts or spring seats up a touch.
The right way to fix it is measure for the correct length of push rods and order some.
Pretty much the only time that stuff happens is with new after market cam and springs.

Thanks for the reply. That’s what has me confused, everything is bone stock outside of some headers.

 

[Pistol Pete]

If it's just one cyl, that compression test that cranky posted is needed for sure. Could have a valve sinking in the seat.
If they are all or most to tight , guys used to shim the shafts or spring seats up a touch.
The right way to fix it is measure for the correct length of push rods and order some.
Pretty much the only time that stuff happens is with new after market cam and springs.

It's a long shot and not where I'd go first, but don't rule out one wrong length pushrod. A motor bends a pushrod and a frugal *ahem* mechanic grabs one out of the coffee can of spares. Unlikely, yes, but possible.

 

[Wietse]

In this case where it is cyl #7 only, i would be looking at the brake booster vacuum connection, not sure you have power brakes, booster could be leaking or plug not sealing/missing.
This normally sits on the cyl #7 port, if any leak there this cylinder will be running very lean.

 

[Ernie ingling]

Try turning out 1/4the A/F screw pn right side ie. Dr side. See if header cools Also inferred temp gun helpful

 

[67charger440]

Greetings all- new Mopar owner here.

I just bought a 67 charger with a 440 big block that the guy sold because of health reasons. I think the 440 is of the motor home flavor from the late 70’s. Any who, I just put some summit racing headers on and fired it up for the first time. After idling for ~ 5 minutes, the number 7 header is glowing red. Engine is around 190° I know the typical answers are timing, and it is too lean, however I am skeptical this is the case due to only one pipe glowing.
Either tomorrow or the next day I am going to check timing with a light, and compression on that cylinder. Any old head have any other advice for me? Plugs show a lean running engine. I am also wondering if the proximity of the other header pipe could be causing the # 7 pipe to heat up from the radiating heat.

View attachment 1149858 View attachment 1149859

Update for everyone, all cylinders including the number 7 are between 140~150 psi. In to timing.how much advance should I put on the ol girl? Thx again everyone.

 

[33 IMP]

Did you see Weitse's answer, #15? Now that compression has proved good, that seems to be the best answer to the question. Ive never had a power brake mopar, but if #7 is your problem, and #7 is where vacuum for the booster comes from.......?

 

[67charger440]

Did you see Weitse's answer, #15? Now that compression has proved good, that seems to be the best answer to the question. Ive never had a power brake mopar, but if #7 is your problem, and #7 is where vacuum for the booster comes from.......?

Yes sir, I don’t have power brakes. I Also done see any uncovered vacuum lines

 

[eldubb440]

vacuum leak at base of intake?