Mopar Electrical Specialist needed

[ynst]

Unplug the turn signal fuse, turn on the ignition and activate the turn signal switch.
If the lights blink, your turn signal flasher is NOT connected to the turn signal fuse and that's why the wire burned when it got chaffed by the dashboard support.

White is the output of the brake light switch into the turn signal switch
Dark green goes to the right rear brake/turn light
Yellow goes to the left rear brake/turn light
Purple comes from the signal flasher
Brown comes from the hazard flasher
Dark blue goes to the right front signal light AND the right dash indicator
Light blue goes to the left front signal light AND the left dash indicator
Black connects the horn button to the horn relay and is grounded to the chassis when the horn ring is activated

The three inputs (white, purple and brown) should all be fused prior to the flashers and brake switch.

ANY short in either the 3 inputs or the 4 outputs will blow a fuse, not burn up a wire.

 

[1carlover]

The purple wire in a GM turn signal switch is the output of the turn signal flasher going into the turn signal switch. The wire feeding the turn signal flasher should be protected by a fuse and, if it was, the fuse will blow before the wire even comes close to melting.

One of your pictures seems to show the burned portion of the wire stopping right where the harness wraps around the sharp edge of the dash frame. The dash brace chaffed through the insulation and the wire burned back from that point towards the flasher, itself.

My thoughts are that the circuit was unprotected and the wire got chaffed right at the above-mentioned bend. You should have blown a fuse LONG before the wires burned.

Properly wired, there is absolutely no reason why ANY of the wires in the signal switch should melt like that. The white wire is the output of the brake switch which should be fused. The brown wire is the output of the hazard flasher which should, also be fused. The purple wire,as previously mentioned should be fused as well. The rest of the wires are, merely, switch-selected outputs of these three fused inputs.
The only other wire is the black horn button wire which is grounded when the horn ring is pressed and it grounds the horn relay to operate the horn.

I doubt that the problem was the switch but, now that it's melted, replacing it will, obviously fix your symptom but I think you still have a problem.

Check all three circuits and make sure they're properly fused.

Unplug the turn signal fuse, turn on the ignition and activate the turn signal switch.
If the lights blink, your turn signal flasher is NOT connected to the turn signal fuse and that's why the wire burned when it got chaffed by the dashboard support.

White is the output of the brake light switch into the turn signal switch
Dark green goes to the right rear brake/turn light
Yellow goes to the left rear brake/turn light
Purple comes from the signal flasher
Brown comes from the hazard flasher
Dark blue goes to the right front signal light AND the right dash indicator
Light blue goes to the left front signal light AND the left dash indicator
Black connects the horn button to the horn relay and is grounded to the chassis when the horn ring is activated

The three inputs (white, purple and brown) should all be fused prior to the flashers and brake switch.

ANY short in either the 3 inputs or the 4 outputs will blow a fuse, not burn up a wire.

Unplug the turn signal fuse, turn on the ignition and activate the turn signal switch.
If the lights blink, your turn signal flasher is NOT connected to the turn signal fuse and that's why the wire burned when it got chaffed by the dashboard support.

White is the output of the brake light switch into the turn signal switch
Dark green goes to the right rear brake/turn light
Yellow goes to the left rear brake/turn light
Purple comes from the signal flasher
Brown comes from the hazard flasher
Dark blue goes to the right front signal light AND the right dash indicator
Light blue goes to the left front signal light AND the left dash indicator
Black connects the horn button to the horn relay and is grounded to the chassis when the horn ring is activated

The three inputs (white, purple and brown) should all be fused prior to the flashers and brake switch.

ANY short in either the 3 inputs or the 4 outputs will blow a fuse, not burn up a wire.

 

[1carlover]

Sorry for just getting back to you but just getting back home from a vacation. Thank you for your input, your info is going to be very helpful. My car has been parked mostly so hadn't considered a chaffed wire being the cause. I installed the new switch and wired it in using mopar original open barrel terminals in place of the gm flat blade style. I'm trying to figure out why turn signals aren't working. The flashers work, the horn works, so need to look further into why no turn signals.

 

[1carlover]

Honestly, (if one had the money?) Most of us would Gut the Dash & engine wiring, replace with New M&H harnesses. Not everyone wants to go that route. Looks as if a Reverse light bulb shorted or something Pinched it grounded at one time.

I already put in an M&H dash harness and it did not correct the problem with the instrument fuse blowing.

 

[69_A12_6BBL]

I already put in an M&H dash harness and it did not correct the problem with the instrument fuse blowing.

Have you had a look at back of instument cluster Circuit Board see if any of it's burnt?