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Most significant suspension upgrades, thoughts?

747mopar

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With many, many miles on the Charger since it's completion I'm looking to address a few complaints I have.

#1 is a common complaint, the steering. I briefly chatted with Kern Dog and think the Borgeson box is what I'm after to address that

#2 body twist, with 12" wide Nitto's the body flexes enough that I'm starting to crack the driver side quarter inside the door opening (so far it's within the inside of the jam).

#3 shocks, the car drives great but on sudden dips the shocks feel like there's nowhere near enough rebound or dampening.

#4 power brakes, the vacuum booster works good 90% of the time but on occasion it can be a real pucker factor.

It's lowered 2" with the factory style suspension with the addition of stiffer bars, springs, tubular A arms, polyurethane bushings and weld in frame connectors (Hotchkis style). I knew nothing about torque boxes at the time of the build so there are none.. maybe that's another addition to do? I've been looking at the Hotchkis kit but at $3,400!!! Can anyone attest to their claims of making it handle like a Viper? I'm thinking that adding sway bars and better shocks alone will likely cure the suspension issues. As far as brakes go, I think Hydro boost is the clear winner.
 
I've been a fan of the Hotchkis stuff for years, especially after riding in their Challenger... But lately there have been reports of stuff being ordered/paid for & not being delivered in a timely fashion... However, I just checked Summit & they say they have 4 in stock.. So I would order from them...

As far as hydroboost... You might want to do more research... What you describe sounds like you run out of vacuum... Whether a bad check valve, a big cam or something else we don't have enough info to guess...
 
Resto Rick makes excellent front and rear torque boxes for less than Hotchkis.
I have them on my Runner.
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I've been a fan of the Hotchkis stuff for years, especially after riding in their Challenger... But lately there have been reports of stuff being ordered/paid for & not being delivered in a timely fashion... However, I just checked Summit & they say they have 4 in stock.. So I would order from them...

As far as hydroboost... You might want to do more research... What you describe sounds like you run out of vacuum... Whether a bad check valve, a big cam or something else we don't have enough info to guess...
That's strange, Summit has been showing the Hotchkis kits as not available every time I look. Jegs has them though. Yes, I will investigate further but when this happens it seems to always be under the same circumstances, coming off throttle right into the brakes, most normal driving situations it's flawless.
 
when this happens it seems to always be under the same circumstances, coming off throttle right into the brakes, most normal driving situations it's flawless.
Replace the check valve... Cheap and I've seen it cause exactly what your experiencing..
 
I put the Hotchlis kit in my Cuda. Only part I didn't use was the SFC's. I used US Car Tools. With the 17 inch rallys and Nitto 505's, and the Borgesen box, I'm very happy how it feels.
 
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I put the Hotchlis kit in my Cuda. Only part I didn't use was the SFC's. With the 17 inch rallyes and Nitto 505's, and the Borgesen box, I'm very happy how it feels.
What exactly are the SFC's?
 
Shocks:
For many of us, Bilstein RCDs are a favorite. All I have ever used are KYBs and Bilstein in the red car and there is absolutely no comparison, the Bilsteins win by a mile. Others have gone further with higher end shocks like Viking, Fox and Koni but for the money, it sure seems like Bilstein makes a great shock.
Frame connectors and torque boxes:
I made my own connectors out of 3 x 3 boxed steel. The torque boxes are just 14 gauge sheet metal that I formed myself.
The LCAs are boxed....

IMG_E9935.JPG


Rubber bushings in the LCAs, the UCAs are QA-1.
 
I have a 77 camper van, but some things are similar.
Steering. Not good on mine, even after having the steering box fixed. I will get the alignment checked, and hope that helps.
Body. Have a heavy chassis.
Shocks. Spring shop says Bilsteins are worth the money, but are double a set of Monroe. I had an extra leaf added to the rear. All my springs are near new.
Brakes. I just replaced everything except the lines. Probably do that next winter.
 
All of the above. Weld in frame rail connectors (USCT), torque boxes (USCT), Borgeson Power steering, boxed LCA's, QA1 adjustable strut rods, Firm Feel 1.06 T-Bars, 2" drop spindles, QA1 UCAs, Hellwig 1-3/8" tubular sway bar up front, none in the rear, Poly bushings all around, QA1 double adjustable shocks on all 4 corners, Calvert split monoleafs with Cal Tracs in the ***.
I put it all in together so I can't say what the most significant feature is. My guess would be frame rail connectors and torque boxes. Hooks and handles great.

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Shocks:
For many of us, Bilstein RCDs are a favorite. All I have ever used are KYBs and Bilstein in the red car and there is absolutely no comparison, the Bilsteins win by a mile. Others have gone further with higher end shocks like Viking, Fox and Koni but for the money, it sure seems like Bilstein makes a great shock.
Frame connectors and torque boxes:
I made my own connectors out of 3 x 3 boxed steel. The torque boxes are just 14 gauge sheet metal that I formed myself.
The LCAs are boxed....

View attachment 1789450

Rubber bushings in the LCAs, the UCAs are QA-1.
I had KYB's and thought they were horrible, tried Monroe, again horrible, I will likely be using Bilstein since everyone on here seems to love them. I also made my own connectors, very much like the ones Hotchkis offers. Definitely looking at adding the boxes and I do have a sheet metal brake.
 
All of the above. Weld in frame rail connectors (USCT), torque boxes (USCT), Borgeson Power steering, boxed LCA's, QA1 adjustable strut rods, Firm Feel 1.06 T-Bars, 2" drop spindles, QA1 UCAs, Hellwig 1-3/8" tubular sway bar up front, none in the rear, Poly bushings all around, QA1 double adjustable shocks on all 4 corners, Calvert split monoleafs with Cal Tracs in the ***.
I put it all in together so I can't say what the most significant feature is. My guess would be frame rail connectors and torque boxes. Hooks and handles great.

View attachment 1789606View attachment 1789607View attachment 1789608View attachment 1789609
What benefit do you gain with the adjustable strut rods? I've already got the frame connectors, 1.1" torsion bars and polyurethane bushings so that's covered. I thought the Cal Tracs was more for drag racing, how do they perform in the corners and daily driving? You pretty much listed everything I'm looking at.

what brake setup did you go with, I might upgrade to disc in the rear while I'm at it.
 
I can say the '71 Charger body seems stiffer than my '69 Coronet(s).
For brake vacuum, I have a vacuum reservoir tank.
Steering, I will tighten up steering box adjuster to remove slack. It helps on old worn boxes, but only a bit. The power steering still seems over pressured. I think the pressure valve can be modified to get a firmer steering feel.
Poly suspension bushings, boxed lower control arms, and adjustable strut rods for the stock type suspension.
US Car tool has chassis stiffing kits, but I haven't used a full kit.

Maybe check out Rust Bucket Restos
Rust Bucket Restos

He has done QA1 suspension stuff, and the US Car Tool stuff.
 
With many, many miles on the Charger since it's completion I'm looking to address a few complaints I have.

#1 is a common complaint, the steering. I briefly chatted with Kern Dog and think the Borgeson box is what I'm after to address that

#2 body twist, with 12" wide Nitto's the body flexes enough that I'm starting to crack the driver side quarter inside the door opening (so far it's within the inside of the jam).

#3 shocks, the car drives great but on sudden dips the shocks feel like there's nowhere near enough rebound or dampening.

#4 power brakes, the vacuum booster works good 90% of the time but on occasion it can be a real pucker factor.

It's lowered 2" with the factory style suspension with the addition of stiffer bars, springs, tubular A arms, polyurethane bushings and weld in frame connectors (Hotchkis style). I knew nothing about torque boxes at the time of the build so there are none.. maybe that's another addition to do? I've been looking at the Hotchkis kit but at $3,400!!! Can anyone attest to their claims of making it handle like a Viper? I'm thinking that adding sway bars and better shocks alone will likely cure the suspension issues. As far as brakes go, I think Hydro boost is the clear winner.
I didn't expect my Charger to handle like a Viper so probably not much help for you in that category but I am very happy with the way my car performs. I have the Borgi steering gear and I believe that will fix your #1 complaint.
I have the stock front sway bar and the Firm Feel 3/4" rear bar. I went with that because most of the aftermarket rear bars are underslung adding to the unsprung weight.
I used the super stock rear springs and 1.03 torsion bars with Bilstein shocks and love the way the car handles.
I too installed the polyurethane bushings up front but I plan on ditching them in favor of the stock rubber bushing as they are my only complaint.
Not sure what is going on with your brakes. Do you have the dual diaphragm 8" booster?
 
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