Motor Oil opinions

[not so famous bob]

Yep. And they say (from your link): The Valvoline VR1 Racing and other racing oils not intended for passenger vehicles.....

--------going to be a fairly long post------------
I`ll throw in here, I know this to be a fact. One of my friends has a little mech. shop, he`s an 18 time national record holder, and knows his stuff on sbc . He had an amsoil salesman come by quite a few yrs back, and put on a demonstration for him, w/ barrel type cylindrical bearings and diff. motor oils, in a specially built machine that would load the bearings , telling how much load he was putting on the bearings while spinning them in the diff oils. The salesman tested about 6 diff brands of oil, counting amsoil. The best naturally refined crude oil was Phillips 66 !
The amsoil beat all of them hands down. He would put a couple drops of each oil in diff.
indentations on a track, that an elec. motor would slide back and forth, and spin the bearings. It had a gauge to tell how much pressure he was applying to the bearings while spinning them very fast. The Phillips troparctic was the best natural oil . The amsoil won by a large margine, it didn`t wear the bearing at all in the same amount of time as they all were tested.
P.s. I don`t rum amsoil at this time, I may tho when broke in.

 

[Ranger16]

I've seen that "test" done before at different shows. Even seen it once at a gun show by a guy selling FP10 gun oil. Maybe it's just my skeptical nature, but I am not convinced it's 100% real.

 

[khryslerkid]

Reminds me of a WD40 salesman that came in the shop. (Back in the day) He bragged about how well it displaced water. He sprayed a electric drill with it, held it down in a five gallon bucket of water and pulled the trigger! I told him he was a complete idiot. What some people will do to sell a product

 

[6PKRTSE]

What a lot of people don't realize is that most of our engines are 40 & 50+ years old. The sealing technology & design back then is not what it is today with everything being o-ring'd etc. While the gasket manufacturers technology has come along way also in some cases modern synthetics & lightweight race oils will seep past the sealing surfaces & cause leaks. It most cases conventional motor oil will work just fine & can even seal back up if switched back to conventional. I have seen it work on many of my buddies engines.

 

[wyrmrider]

the old gypsy oil your balls show
google 540 rat

 

[Ron H]

I'm thinking one qt of Valvoline, one qt amsoil, one qt kendall, one qt phillips 66...

 

[not so famous bob]

I'm thinking one qt of Valvoline, one qt amsoil, one qt kendall, one qt phillips 66...

LOL, I don`t know about the Phillips troparctic now , since they merged w/ Conoco .

 

[Bee1971]

Yep. And they say (from your link): The Valvoline VR1 Racing and other racing oils not intended for passenger vehicles.....

Second link in that post - On the highway , compatible with passenger vehicles

Valvoline™ VR1 Racing Oil's high zinc provides race-level protection for high performance engines on the race track or the highway. It’s exclusive chemistry is designed to reduce friction and enhance power. It is among the most popular engine lubricants in all types of racing including paved and dirt ovals, and drag racing. Formulated for race engines, but compatible with passenger vehicles too.

So again , let the confusion begin

There are three types of Valvoline racing oils: VR1 conventional, VR1 synthetic, and NSL (Not Street Legal)

Clearly states on this bottle , Not Street Legal

So again

https://uedata.amazon.com/Valvoline-VV850-Racing-STREET-Bottles/dp/B000GAN3GM

If you want to run on the street

Buy the VR 1 Conventional OR VR 1 Synthetic

NOT STREET LEGAL VERSION

 

[Bee1971]

2. 10W30 Valvoline NSL (Not Street Legal) Conventional Racing Oil = 103,846 psi
zinc = 1669 ppm
phos = 1518 ppm
ZDDP = 1500 ppm
NOTE: Due to its very low TBN value, this oil is only suitable for short term racing use, and is not suitable for street use.

3. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (silver bottle) = 103,505 psi
zinc = 1472 ppm
phos = 1544 ppm
ZDDP = 1500 ppm

4. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Synthetic Racing Oil, API SL (black bottle) = 101,139 psi
zinc = 1180 ppm
phos = 1112 ppm
ZDDP = 1100 ppm

 

[not so famous bob]

I've seen that "test" done before at different shows. Even seen it once at a gun show by a guy selling FP10 gun oil. Maybe it's just my skeptical nature, but I am not convinced it's 100% real.

When an 18 time national record holder that I grew up w/ , and has owned his own business for approx. 45 yrs, tells me something about automobiles, I have a tendacy to listen to him.

 

[wyrmrider]

as with the one armed bandit
one small test
mostly irrelevant
but consistent

 

[bearman]

I have ran amsoil in about in everything that moves. It has saved thousands of dollars in labor and parts. Everybody believes what Valvoline and the rest of the oil companies. I will say it again you will pay thousands to have your engine trans diff etc to make sure it's just right. But yet you will drop oil in it and then add more additive product because its the best snake oil around. You will buy whatever filter and pack the bearings with all the soap you can get in there. I have done real world bearing test on all grease and oil and amsoil keeps winning. Somebody needs to put one front wheel on your grease and then do the other side with amsoil grease then take a temp reading and you will see that amsoil is still cooler than the other. As for seals and orings leaking better read the fine print as why syn oil may leak past you will find that the compound of the oring is not what you think. Thank you for letting me sounds off

 

[wyrmrider]

sure and where a factory spec is 75W 85 for trans lube and 75W where it's cold Amsoil recommends 75W-90
might work in Phoenix but not so good in the North
but biggest problem the Amsoil is GL-5 which tears up synchros where the factory says Gl-4
you really have to read all the specs

 

[Ranger16]

biggest problem the Amsoil is GL-5 which tears up synchros where the factory says Gl-4

Yup GL5 is a no-no in 4 speeds. GL4 is compatible with "yellow metal" (Brass & Bronze).

 

[bearman]

sure and where a factory spec is 75W 85 for trans lube and 75W where it's cold Amsoil recommends 75W-90
might work in Phoenix but not so good in the North
but biggest problem the Amsoil is GL-5 which tears up synchros where the factory says Gl-4
you really have to read all the specs

been running 90-140 gear lube in heavy equipment for years have had zero problem and got million miles to show for it. all i'm saying is that be careful in what you put in your car know the duty cycles and the stop and go. i just have a hard time with all this additive stuff that could hurt the parts you are trying to save.

 

[wyrmrider]

Exactly right bearman
only Ford posi supplement
some of the newer jap cars need 75w or they won't shift

 

[RM23M9A]

Brad Penn. The only downsides I've found to synthetics are....cost, and if your engine could leak, it will leak with synthetics.

Yep, great oil but ****'s leakin where it SHOULDNT BE.. Kinda pisses me off.. Going BACK TO 10/w30 Quaker State