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My 1st 440 build in almost 40 years

Roger63

Roger63

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I actually got started about 4 months ago, gathering up a engine tearing down and inspecting. Took 2 months to get block cleaned and sonic checked along with heads being reworked. So I started ordering parts today and immediately ran into a snag. Availability, shout out to 69bee for the help. Went to order my cam kit and again a snag. It seems there is a shortage of blank cams, the one manufacturer in Michigan cut production by 75% right after the election. There is also a waiting list188 deep for intakes just at 1 small dealer.
 
Well I hope it gets better and have fun,keep us posted :thumbsup:
 
John Partridge at Bullet Cams just hooked Billy up with a nice cam and a bunch of other stuff for his Hemi. He's happy with it. It only took a few days.
 
Building a 440 is fun and rewarding! Stock or modified build? 440'
 
I’ve heard blanks are scarce now. Maybe used cam & lifters will be worth something if Nobody can buy a new one.
 
You likely will have to find something in stock from different sources.. We've had to spread our shopping out between, this site:thumbsup: , summit, jegs, bullet cams, rock auto, 440 source, hughes, ebay, and the last roller cam we got used from a engine builder. Summit has a good site and usually says what they have in stock or the wait time. It's not just mopar cams that have core cam supply issues. The tale end of last year visiting w Bullet they has issues with supplies and that was months ago. There are supply problems all over. I went into caterpillar for about 40 various parts and the only part they had was ONE o ring...the parts locator said it was available in Russia and Australia...not helpful.Lol
 
That is exactly what I'm hearing to, parts are scattered at best. I spent all morning locating valve locks and retainers.
 
I went with the comp cam kit. Purple grind cam. With valve spring's and tappets. Think valve seals where included. Don't know about keepers.
 
Well my receipe goes like this. 73 440 block a pair of 906 heads mild porting completely rebuilt and machined, cast crank ground and polished .010 under stock flat top pistons with LY rods. I am planning on using the whiplash cam kit that comes with cam, lifters,springs, timing chain set and gaskets. I will use they're distributor as it is custom curved for the cam . Edelbrock intake with a Holley 850 and long tube headers.
 
Roger63 said:
Well my receipe goes like this. 73 440 block a pair of 906 heads mild porting completely rebuilt and machined, cast crank ground and polished .010 under stock flat top pistons with LY rods. I am planning on using the whiplash cam kit that comes with cam, lifters,springs, timing chain set and gaskets. I will use they're distributor as it is custom curved for the cam . Edelbrock intake with a Holley 850 and long tube headers.
Click to expand...

There remains no such thing as a "stock Flat Top Pistons".... for anything other than the 1.969" Compression Distance or the even worse 1.91" Compression Distance offerings....
which at best using 906 Heads generally yield around 8.2:1 or 7.6:1 Compression Ratio respectively.... resulting in notorious DAWGS that are comparable more to a late 1970's smogger motorhome rebuild !
Just say'in....
You may wish to research the Compression Distance data on your "stock" Pistons as they are notoriously LOW Compression.
Do they sit .090" to .140" down at TDC ?
Now remember... you are adding another .020" using a thicker composition style Head gasket from the factory steel shim(2.4 cc's X 2 = 4.8 CC's extra)

I would highly suggest you research and re-consider using the Federal Mogul L2355F Forged Pistons for an honest 9.6:1 using the 906 Heads and Composition Head Gasket, which are made from a very quiet running/stable 4032 alloy....
lest you be very disappointed in this 440 build using your erroneously CR labelled "stock" cast Pistons
 
Last edited:
Challenger340 said:
There remains no such thing as a "stock Flat Top Pistons".... for anything other than the 1.969" Compression Distance or the even worse 1.91" Compression Distance offerings....
which at best using 906 Heads generally yield around 8.2:1 or 7.6:1 Compression Ratio respectively.... resulting in notorious DAWGS that are comparable more to a late 1970's smogger motorhome rebuild !
Just say'in....
You may wish to research the Compression Distance data on your "stock" Pistons as they are notoriously LOW Compression.
Do they sit .090" to .140" down at TDC ?
Now remember... you are adding another .020" using a thicker composition style Head gasket from the factory steel shim(2.4 cc's X 2 = 4.8 CC's extra)

I would highly suggest you research and re-consider using the Federal Mogul L2355F Forged Pistons for an honest 9.6:1 using the 906 Heads and Composition Head Gasket, which are made from a very quiet running/stable 4032 alloy....
lest you be very disappointed in this 440 build using your erroneously CR labelled "stock" cast Pistons
Click to expand...
I did which is why I choose the whiplash cam. It is engineered especially for low compression mopars. I do appreciate the advice and will consider it. But if I cant get the cam my receipe is in the trash.
 
I would follow challenger 340's advice. The idea behind the whiplash is more to make the best out of low compression engine where you don't have a choice...where the build is already done. If you are buying new pistons you have better choices.
My guess is if you talk to Hughes they would not tell you to start with the low compression pistons either. Phone call away to find out...
 
Compression makes power based on the stock flat top pistons your compression will be on the low end for a performance build. I built a 440 HP spec engine. I ended up changing the pistons in order to increase the compression. I used the L2355F forged pistons. Im using 84cc measured combustion chamber 906 heads. This combination puts my static CR around 10:1 440'
 
Curiousyellow71 said:
I would follow challenger 340's advice. The idea behind the whiplash is more to make the best out of low compression engine where you don't have a choice...where the build is already done. If you are buying new pistons you have better choices.
My guess is if you talk to Hughes they would not tell you to start with the low compression pistons either. Phone call away to find out...
Click to expand...
I hadn't planned on buying new pistons, the pistons that came with the motor are in appearance flawless. Very little wear in the cylinders which micd 4.323 so I had them machine honed at the machine shop. Parts availability is becoming a problem limiting my choices. So I will have time to consider all options.
 
Roger63 said:
I did which is why I choose the whiplash cam. It is engineered especially for low compression mopars. I do appreciate the advice and will consider it. But if I cant get the cam my receipe is in the trash.
Click to expand...


Kudo's to HUGHES for investing/grinding the whiplash series cams..... I mean that !
But IMO there is no 'magic' Camshaft "engineering" as a be all, end all stand alone cure the low-pop engines, only "where" you close the Intake Valve ABDC to try and trap as much pressure as possible to enhance DCR or Dynamic Cylinder Pressure on the A/F charge..... each extra incipient psi trapped then being approx 6* F higher peak Combustion Temp/pressures reached and quicker burn rates.
Just say'in.... making the best of a poor situation.... albeit admirable, should not always be substituted for doing things better at the start ?

Just me....
but if the low-pop slugs are a must budgetarily.... I wouldn't be afraid to try an off the shelf Comp XE268H installed up around 104 ?
and it doesn't require anywhere near 300+ Lbs over the nose V/Spring pressures to remain stable throughout the rpm range... let be 150# Seat pressures
 
Challenger340 said:
Kudo's to HUGHES for investing/grinding the whiplash series cams..... I mean that !
But IMO there is no 'magic' Camshaft "engineering" as a be all, end all stand alone cure the low-pop engines, only "where" you close the Intake Valve ABDC to try and trap as much pressure as possible to enhance DCR or Dynamic Cylinder Pressure on the A/F charge..... each extra incipient psi trapped then being approx 6* F higher peak Combustion Temp/pressures reached and quicker burn rates.
Just say'in.... making the best of a poor situation.... albeit admirable, should not always be substituted for doing things better at the start ?

Just me....
but if the low-pop slugs are a must budgetarily.... I wouldn't be afraid to try an off the shelf Comp XE268H installed up around 104 ?
and it doesn't require anywhere near 300+ Lbs over the nose V/Spring pressures to remain stable throughout the rpm range... let be 150# Seat pressures
Click to expand...
First and foremost this build is a street car that will never see the drag strip. Just a cruiser that sounds good and runs out good.
 
Awesome advice from you guys, I'm not as technical as y'all so it takes time for it to sink in.
 
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