Ironbuilt
Well-Known Member
Looks great my friend.
The converter is neutral balance and new as everything else is, the flexplate that was on the engine originally was not weighted. Does that make any difference?Yes you need either a weighted converter or flex plate, to balance the rear end of the engine.
Any recommendations to look for a properly weighted flex plate? Cause I sure don't want to buy a new torque converter.nope. if you have a cast crank.. you need the proper 440 weight welded on.the converter
Or take the flex plate back out.
The original converter was toast so I'm gonna find a new flexplate, thanksCast cranks used an externally balanced Torque Convertor with a weight welded to the outside of the Convertor body of the correct 'weight'..... and at the correct 'distance' out from center ?
Just say'in....
'distance' from center plays as great a role of where the weight is placed as much as the 'correct' weight as well ?
To fix it at this point you have 3 choices:
1.) Dis-assemble and get the rotating assembly balanced ?(unlikely)
2.) put the stock 'weighted' cast crank convertor back in ?
(Probably best)
3.) try finding an externally weighted flexplate for Cast Crank 440's
(They are 'out there' as we did up a bunch about 15 years ago)
F'ing genius! Thanks!!!So while I was waiting on a few parts to come I decided to address the loose heater a/c controls in the dash. I got that part figured out, the ears for mounting had broken off made new ones out of metal. Upon further inspection I found 2 nipples broke off the vacum control switch. I researched and found a couple for 550, uh nope. Here is my repair. Use a 7/32 drill bit and drilled out the nipple location, I then used part of a wd40 straw cut to length and pressed into the 7/32 hole. It's a tight fit, then I used super glue around the base of the straw.View attachment 1118760
Worked perfectly and fits the vacum connector firm.
Well thanks but more like dumb idea that actually worksF'ing genius! Thanks!!!