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My 66 Satellite street car project

Also got the Parachute mount and release handle done. I’m using the square receiver from the trailer so it can be removed easily.


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Ordered up a bunch of 1 5/8 4130 Chromoly to add in the front section of cage to get 8.50 certified. Pulled out the bender, bolted it to the floor, moved the cold saw back in the garage. Taking forever!

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Parachute? Just how fast is this car?? I like it a lot!!!!
 
Ordered up a bunch of 1 5/8 4130 Chromoly to add in the front section of cage to get 8.50 certified. Pulled out the bender, bolted it to the floor, moved the cold saw back in the garage. Taking forever!

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Been doing some work to get the car ready for Drag Week this year. Going to post up some of my progress since I really haven’t since July of last year.

Removed the TCI shifter and built a new mount for a Reverse pattern Motion Raceworks CO2 shifter. It's Kinda weird, it mounts the cable on the tail shaft bolts and feeds in from the back. Also the shift pattern is already RMVB but Backwards/Backwards. Park is all the way back, Forward to R,N,1,2,3. Used a lazer level to find center of car to completely rework console location. Had to move console back another 6 inches + what it was already moved back for the TCI shifter. So console is roughly a foot to the rear and 4” higher then factory location.

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WOW. That’s all I’ll say right now until I can get to go through your pics in detail. “ I’ll be back ”

Edit: ok. Have had a good look at your work and examined each picture. WOW. I like your workmanship and attention to detail. Your shifter fits the console perfectly. You’ve added on to the roll bar to make it a cage and did a terrific job on that too. The same as the parachute bracket. Impressive workmanship and design!
Your shift pattern is the exact same as my PPP shifter in my Dart. RMVB and forward shift pattern. The difference is that mine is rear cable exit and front cable connection. 7’cable. Your upgrades over the winter motivates me to upgrade to a cage now. Thanks, I think.
Question, are you running a shield or trans blanket? Looking forward to following along in Drag Week.
 
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Just read through this build for the first time, hell of a car when compared to its somewhat humble beginning! I realize my project is on easy mode after reading this haha.
 
WOW. That’s all I’ll say right now until I can get to go through your pics in detail. “ I’ll be back ”

Edit: ok. Have had a good look at your work and examined each picture. WOW. I like your workmanship and attention to detail. Your shifter fits the console perfectly. You’ve added on to the roll bar to make it a cage and did a terrific job on that too. The same as the parachute bracket. Impressive workmanship and design!
Your shift pattern is the exact same as my PPP shifter in my Dart. RMVB and forward shift pattern. The difference is that mine is rear cable exit and front cable connection. 7’cable. Your upgrades over the winter motivates me to upgrade to a cage now. Thanks, I think.
Question, are you running a shield or trans blanket? Looking forward to following along in Drag Week.
Stroud blanket, No Shield which could be a problem in tech. Cant fit anything there, The engine was pushed back almost 2" to clear Water pump/Radiator. There is a CO2 cylinder that sits on top of the console, Its not in yet. Need to find a way to connect the end to top of console plate.
 
Some cage work yesterday. Pulled the front section out and welded the halo to the down bars. Put it back in cause I forgot to set the tab for the front mount of window net. Also figured out a rear view mirror bracket. Going to pull it all back out, weld in the tabs and paint the halo and down bars, I'll leave about 4” of no paint for welding to main hoop, door bars, and floor. There’s really no way to paint it once it’s installed, as it is very tight against the headliner trim. I’m trying to match the cage color so I don’t have to paint what wasn’t touched, like the rear bars going through package tray. Problem is I don’t know what was used to originally paint the cage so I’m using regular catalyzed black single stage and having to add flattener until I get it close. I’ll spray out a couple cards till it matches.

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The cage pictures are very useful for me. In the future I'll be installing an 8 point unit in my 65. Looking at the floor plates and other portions is informative.
 
The cage pictures are very useful for me. In the future I'll be installing an 8 point unit in my 65. Looking at the floor plates and other portions is informative.
The D bar plates are questionable as they don't go to the driveshaft tunnel, But I spoke with NHRA chassis inspector and he said if I have a welded subframe connector, I could go to top of that as well. I even asked about the US Car Tool welded connectors (They differ from rectangle tubing) but he said that should be fine being the box welded in, become a square tube of sorts. We are all learning together.
 
I put 2x4x.120 units in the car. On the back, the relocated spring boxes are welded to them. Up front, I cut through the t-bar/trans unit to sleeve them into the back of the front rails by about 5". I haven't finished off the interior stuff yet as I figured to connect the bars to the rails somehow. Figure that out when I dive into that project.
 
The D bar plates are questionable as they don't go to the driveshaft tunnel, But I spoke with NHRA chassis inspector and he said if I have a welded subframe connector, I could go to top of that as well. I even asked about the US Car Tool welded connectors (They differ from rectangle tubing) but he said that should be fine being the box welded in, become a square tube of sorts. We are all learning together.
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Learning together? In my case there’s way more learning going on over here on my side of the screen. Haha.

But a very nice well thought out job. I went back a few pages to refresh myself on the build. The bottle on the console is a good idea. I ended up building aluminum brackets and hanging both the fire and C02 bottles on the cross bar. I’m wondering what size of air filter did you end up with that fit under the new scoop?

Over here on my wedge I finally got my air filter dilemma sorted out that works with the 3” hemi scoop.
16 X 3” filter, 1” drop base, NO air cleaner lid. Filter seals to the top of the scoop. Full circle.
Time slips say so.

Thanks again for posting progress updates. Still my favourite thread!
 
———
Learning together? In my case there’s way more learning going on over here on my side of the screen. Haha.

But a very nice well thought out job. I went back a few pages to refresh myself on the build. The bottle on the console is a good idea. I ended up building aluminum brackets and hanging both the fire and C02 bottles on the cross bar. I’m wondering what size of air filter did you end up with that fit under the new scoop?

Over here on my wedge I finally got my air filter dilemma sorted out that works with the 3” hemi scoop.
16 X 3” filter, 1” drop base, NO air cleaner lid. Filter seals to the top of the scoop. Full circle.
Time slips say so.

Thanks again for posting progress updates. Still my favourite thread
———
Learning together? In my case there’s way more learning going on over here on my side of the screen. Haha.

But a very nice well thought out job. I went back a few pages to refresh myself on the build. The bottle on the console is a good idea. I ended up building aluminum brackets and hanging both the fire and C02 bottles on the cross bar. I’m wondering what size of air filter did you end up with that fit under the new scoop?

Over here on my wedge I finally got my air filter dilemma sorted out that works with the 3” hemi scoop.
16 X 3” filter, 1” drop base, NO air cleaner lid. Filter seals to the top of the scoop. Full circle.
Time slips say so.

Thanks again for posting progress updates. Still my favourite thread!
same 16”x3” drop base and I actually have another inch for the N2O plate not in yet.

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Don’t forget to take care of the “killer dowel pin”.
 
I have to do some more research, but I don’t think that applies to this motor, where the timing cover goes over that Dow pin there’s a step in it that would not allow the dowel pin to slide out. I don’t know if they fix this in later years.
 
I have to do some more research, but I don’t think that applies to this motor, where the timing cover goes over that Dow pin there’s a step in it that would not allow the dowel pin to slide out. I don’t know if they fix this in later years.

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I think later model 5.9’s took care of that, if not, it’s easy to make a tab to cover it and no more worries.
 
Don’t forget to take care of the “killer dowel pin”.
If memory serves me correctly, that was a 12v issue. However the 98.5-02 24v eat injection pumps, VP44's, if the lift pump is bad. Hopefully the lift pump has been upgraded.
 
Yeah, VP44’s are fun…..lol! I’ve always thought the 2nd Gens were hit/miss on the dowel pin. It took me 8 hours to do my first VP44. Finally got down to about 4 hours just cruising along.
 
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