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My Current 67 Satellite Build.

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Pretty much welded in on the new quarter. One little low spot, but that is wiped and blocked out. A little more blocking on the left side, and I think it's good.
 
I'm so glad you're posting your build. I had questions about the new AMD quarters that you seem to have answered.
I waited a number of years, and sent dozens of e-mails to AMD, waiting for them to produce these quarters. Ironically, last year I finally decided to fix mine not knowing if they were ever going to be produced. The shop that did the body and paint is an AMD dealer and even he didn't think they would ever be available. Then, about a month AFTER I finally got all the body work done and the car in paint, AMD releases these quarters. I felt like Pete Best (for those who do not remember The Beatles, look him up). There's not that much repair work done to my quarters - normal rust spots - so it isn't necessary to tear it all apart and replace them. But boy it would have been nice to have these available when I started this project.
BTW, your car looks great. I'm very much looking forward to seeing it completed. My father had a '67 Satellite with the same color combo as yours. He was a Plymouth salesman and that was the car they gave him to drive each day. It's what made me fall in love with the body style.
 
It doesn't look much different, but everything is welded in along with about 20 hours of blocking, panel fitting and adjustments. Everything will get sealed in epoxy in a day or so, after all the trim holes are located and drilled.
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Looks like you're taking the time to get things perfect. Are you happy with the AMD quarters?
 
Looks like you're taking the time to get things perfect. Are you happy with the AMD quarters?
This one only got a right quarter, but to answer your question, it was as close to perfect as a NOS piece. Both it and the outer wheel house are great.
 
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Back to blocking. The lines and gaps are just about there. The hood to be fitted and gaps set soon. I had to dig out another hood from my stash as the hood we were prepping had some waves that I didn't notice when I set it aside to be used. Pictures of that to come soon.
 
Moving on to the sub assemblies. Got the K frame and front suspension out today. It's headed for cleanup, then disassembly and rebuild.
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Jerry, do you do your own body prep and painting? Nice to have room for all all this.
 
Jerry, do you do your own body prep and painting? Nice to have room for all all this.
A lot of it I do, but a good helper is a necessity at my age. My body helper is also an excellent painter. He will paint this one as he's better than I ever was. He painted the 70 RR that I picture here sometimes. Dark Burnt Orange. The car is no longer mine, but one of my favorite builds.
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It looks like you are doing pretty good at your age. I have a friend I help out a little who has restored old Shelby Mustangs and various Fords since the 80s. He has had more early Shelby GT350s than one person can count using all fingers and thumbs, and maybe a few toes. Some of the early 65s he’s been through have auctioned over $400,000. He’s 83 years old now and does most of the work except painting and upholstery and works out of a very Tobacco Road two bay shop that is so cluttered with parts, materials, tools, etc, you can hardly walk through it. He just finished up a 63 427 Galaxy that I restored the trim on and detailed the car for him when he got it assembled. He had a beautiful 66 Hurst Shelby GT350 automatic he finished up a few years ago before the Galaxie and then last year he dragged home a 66 Comet GT 390 4-speed Pace Car that needed everything. I went to eat lunch with him last and he said surprise - I swapped the restored Hurst Shelby for a complete, but road worn, original motor/trans/rear end 66 Shelby with a 4-speed. He wanted another 4 speed GT350. So he’s finishing up replacing rear quarters on the Comet and then going to sell it as a project to someone and then start tearing down the Shelby. He does all the tear down, stripping, sand blasting, chassis restoration, parts conditioning, reassembly, etc. At 83 he makes me feel like kind of a slacker the way he churns through projects but he’s a real inspiration. Anyway, nice project you have. Good luck with it.
 
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Hood is pretty much fitted, and the gaps are in good shape on the left side. Most all the trim holes are drilled in the replacement metal. Have been fitting the Satellite side trim to make sure it goes on without issues after paint. I have already acquired the new clips, expensive little rascals. Also test fitting grill, headlight bezels, and rear taillight extensions and tailpannel. The rear tailpannel almost never lined up correctly from the factory. Of all the GTX'S and Satellites I have and have had only a couple are close. What the factory didn't make things fit? :):) Funny I never took notice on my original car, but looking at buying ones over the years it's one of the first things I look at. A few more tweaks to the right side door and fitting trim we will be close to getting ready for paint.
 
PST has arrived, pitman arm is backordered, but all else is there. Teardown and cleanup pretty much done, I will have to see what I have in better upper control arms as these are pretty pitted and rusty.
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Drums are good with only one cleanup cut. One of the exterior springs that wrap around the drums is gone. I think the rust devil got it looking at the one that is still here. The shoes and spring kits look almost new. I already have new wheel cylinders and brake hoses. Just some of the things you keep on hand around here. Debating about powder coating the K frame or just painting chassis black. Opinions appreciated.
 
Looks amazing to me. I had to buy darn near half a car to get the metal needed for the rear end on the 67 Coronet.
 
Might depend on your Powder Coating shop. If I go, I try to take enough stuff that it’s worth their time and hope on getting a bit of a break on cost. A single piece I would probably pay for dearly. I would guess you could probably gather up a pretty good pile of parts on a stripped car. And it sure is great to not have to drag a sand blaster out and do that chore yourself.
 
Decided to go in a different direction. I'm not going to powder coat the K frame or other suspension parts. The K frame, torsion bars, and steering linkage are about cleaned up and will be coated with POR 15 Semi Gloss black. Here is the results on the K frame.
Clean and ready.
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After coatings with POR 15
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As I'm doing OE build, not necessarily correct in every way but a stock restoration, I decided to reuse the original exhaust manifolds and they have been coated in POR 15 cast manifold paint which cures with the initial run in of the engine and will look like original cast iron. It has proven not to deteriorate on many other cars I have done.
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Currently separated the transmission from the engine and started cleaning it up. I found one problem there. It seems at one of the throwout bearings clips came off and caused some damage to the front bearing retainer.
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Thoughts on replacing it? My mechanic helper says no need to. The perfectionist in me says yes. Ofcourse the entire clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing will be new, and it will cause no problem, just thinking out loud.
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I use lots of POR 15 for work. I’m always surprised on how well it flows out smooth. Great product.
 
I usually have replaced them on a Muncie if the show any signs of wear or roughness. But it was probably not always necessary and I think they are a little cheaper than ones for an A833. Was it still stoking pretty smooth before tearing it down? Maybe it just needs smoothing with some Emory cloth.
 
I drove it around the block and then on to a trailer for the trip home. It shifted fine and I noticed no noise. A total of a mile and a half. Disassembly started the next day. That was over 5 years ago and it's been in pieces ever since. I still think a call to Brewers is in order, if nothing else I will feel better about it.
 
Looks great,I like the por 15 paint job. The retainer should be fine, as said an emery polish is good. Best if you could chuck it in a lathe. As long as the TOB rides smoothly on it by hand check.
 
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