My new 71 SSP! Any advice accepted!

[DudeBroDerk]

Hello everyone! Some may remember me as I’ve been around stalking looking for a 71-72 satellite or roadrunner. Well one came up and I jumped on it! This thing runs and drives and looks great! Sadly has some frame issues I’ll show in pics.

I would love to hear everyone’s thoughts on repair options. I’ve seen that I can buy a new crossmember for like 285$ but how are those to put in correctly? The body itself has great patina and I love the look of it for now! Just want to get it more road worthy and I’ll be happy!

I literally just purchased this today so it’s super new yet can someone please fully decide the cowl tag for me I’ll insert a pic of it also! I’ll be periodically searching for new parts to update this thing.

It definitely needs new front seats and I would like to get the center column changed to an original one as the one that’s in it is out of a Camaro.

Again any help accepted and would love to hear thoughts on it!

 

[DudeBroDerk]

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[DudeBroDerk]

Here’s the rust spots the worst of it is focused on the crossmember

 

[Grabbergreendream]

I saw the car on FB.
That said, if it were me I'd cut & pull the floor accross the top of the crossmember(it has flanges under the floorpan where it meets the rockers). Assess & fix the frame where it meets the crossmember, replace crossmember, then proceed replacing the floor section. Its hard to tell if the floor can be saved, but if the rust is superficial, I'd re-use it. Not sure the depth you want to go...

 

[71Beeper]

Now would be a good time to add frame connectors while you are doing underside repairs.

 

[440 PHIXX]

Looks like a great project! Very good condition!

 

[ct71rr]

I saw the car on FB.
That said, if it were me I'd cut & pull the floor accross the top of the crossmember(it has flanges under the floorpan where it meets the rockers). Assess & fix the frame where it meets the crossmember, replace crossmember, then proceed replacing the floor section. Its hard to tell if the floor can be saved, but if the rust is superficial, I'd re-use it. Not sure the depth you want to go...

This would be the best way to do it in my opinion, as well. Looks like you've already installed Kilmat on the floorpans though. That is going to make removing them suck.

 

[DudeBroDerk]

This would be the best way to do it in my opinion, as well. Looks like you've already installed Kilmat on the floorpans though. That is going to make removing them suck.

Yeah those were from previous person I just got it from. The rust in the floors is very superficial it’s just focused in the frame.

 

[DeltaV]

can someone please fully decide the cowl tag

You meant to include a picture of the fender tag for decoding?

 

[DudeBroDerk]

Crap you’re right! I missed it! Posting now

 

[DudeBroDerk]

.

 

[YY1]

That would look super sharp in OEM GA4 "Gunmetal" gray!

 

[ct71rr]

Yeah those were from previous person I just got it from. The rust in the floors is very superficial it’s just focused in the frame.

The crossmember is attached to the top of the rockers and the top of the frame rails. The only way to correctly (factory) install a replacement would be to remove the floor. I did this on my car. I would also poke around your front frame rails too. If they've rotted at the crossmember attachment point, there's a good chance they're rotted elsewhere.

 

[Rennkafer]

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View attachment 1656661

RH23:
Plymouth Belvedere,Satellite
High
2 Door Hardtop

G1G: 318 230HP 1-2BBL 8 CYL
1971
St. Louis, MO, USA

173029: Sequence number

E44: 318 cid 2 barrel V8 230hp
D31: A904 3-Speed Auto Trans.
GA4: Light Gunmetal Metallic (Dodge), Winchester Gray Metallic (Plymouth, Chrysler & Imperial) Exterior Color
H2X9: Trim - High, Vinyl Bench Seat, Black
TX9: Black (Dodge), Formal Black (Plymouth) Int. Door Frames
203: Build Date: February 03
095856: Order number

TX9: Black (Dodge), Formal Black (Plymouth) Top Color
U: USA Specifications
B51: Power Brakes
G11: Tinted Glass (all)
H51: Air Conditioning with Heater
M21: Roof drip rail moldings

N25: Engine Block Heater
R11: Radio Solid State AM (2 Watts)
V02: Two Tone Paint Treatment
26: 26in Radiator

You can enter it all in here... I kind of guessed on the N25, it's not clear in the pic.
1969-1974 Mopar Fender Tag Decoder

Also, I think that it's a Satellite Sebring, not a Sebring Plus. The research I've been doing lately (I'm just picking up a '71 Satellite too!) indicated that the Sebring Plus had the rally dash, Sebring has the standard dash. The one I bought is also an RH23, standard dash, 318/904 originally (though it's had a 413/727 stuffed in it now). I'm no expert though.

 

[Curiousyellow71]

Really hard to see much in the pictures. But.. looks like you could cut the rust out and weld back in some patch pieces. Just don't catch her fire in the process.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

You could ask MoparMark (?) on this website and I’m sure a few others to get a non-rusted out factory piece from a salvage car (I recommend OEM pieces) I 100% agree you should add at least some “basic” frame connectors. You can post a wanted add on this site or moparts.com and find a console (interior paint to match your color). Nice car!

 

[ckessel]

Time to start stocking up parts for your winter time project. If you haven't done so yet, start a list of need to do/buy.

 

[DeltaV]

I kind of guessed on the N25, it's not clear in the pic.

I'm going to guess too...maybe M25 Wide Sill Mouldings instead of N25?

 

[DeltaV]

@DudeBroDerk did you find the Broadcast Sheet for your car?

 

[#41]

As mentioned, Sebring PLUS would come with Rallye gauge cluster.

I agree also that considering this is not some expensive resto or rare car, I would try and patch the rust without removal of the floor. But, first, you'll need to thoroughly investigate the extent of the rust in the frame / crossmember portions of the unibody. It does no good to weld in a couple of good pieces if the rest is thin as paper.