My new purchase 63 Polara 500 383 convertible! what ya think?

[moparker]

Sell it and get what you want. That is a rare color and car for that matter.

 

[hunt2elk]

Sell it and get what you want. That is a rare color and car for that matter.

My thoughts exactly. It sounds like you really want a hardtop for your project.

 

[RUMBLON]

Well, I drove 422 miles, picked it up. Its a great looking car as is, colors and all. I got an extra perfect pass side fender, extra perfect hood and decklid and done chrome redone bumpers. I loaded it and smoked a cigar and decided go build it as is with the 383, assuming its good.

IM on my phone and will try and post data plate pic. Can anyone tell me which code is the color code and what color its called?

 

[RUMBLON]

Pic

 

[RUMBLON]

Well, I made it home today. here are a few more pics, some old, some new.

63 Polara 500 convertible.

 

[Jim 68cuda]

That color looks good on those early B bodies. Nice find.
The one below showed up at a Walter P Chrysler Club show in Williamsburg, Virginia a few years ago.
This is the only one I've ever seen in this color. I vote you keep the original color. Every other one I've seen has either been black or red, and you always see the red & white interior.

 

[JKLNHYDE]

WOW, I love that color..it looks incredible on that restored car. Very period correct and nostalgic IMO.

 

[bluefury]

Well, I made it home today.​

WOW....!!!!!
Ya done good kid.... and congradulations on keeping with the "as created" plan. That is one beautiful automobile.

Will.

 

[RUMBLON]

Thanks for the comments. And I love this site. I now need to learn some things about these cars and this is the place to be! Although my plans are to keep it this color, I do have some easy mods to do to it to make it a nice driver. It has power brakes and power steering, but drum brakes. I see lots of disc brake conversions on ebay, ect.


#1: What is a decent disc brake kit that will do the car justice, that wont break the? I am more than likely going to use 15" wheels/ tires as I want to fill up the rear and may go with some new springs out back. I’m keeping it this color but its going to look like a HOTROD! Also, is this the correct power brake booster and should I use this one, but a new one just like it or upgrade to a dual reservoir master cylinder and make it all newer brakes, which is what I believe is best? I imagine most newer ones will fit right in?

#2: I’m going to change it to electronic ignition.

#3: How is the standard manifold and carb on this year 383? Any suggestions on upgrades or tricks to make it better.

#4: Is this the correct air cleaner for the car or do I need to find one?

#5: How well do these power steering pumps work and who makes a decent replacement? I tend to use rockauto.com for most newer parts like this.

#6: This is a biggie. In looking at the trim that runs the distance, I am guessing it is hard to come by? And HOW DO I GET THIS TRIM OFF? Special trim tool and if so, which one? Any pics? I DONT want to damage this trim. I’m not starting soon but want to get the tools I need to do it right as this is a weakness I have had over the years.

#7: Convertible top: Who makes a good one for it and did they have glass in them like my 70 Cuda vert or some sort of plexi glass??

#8: Its an electric convertible top like my 70. I am assuming the pumps in close to the same as well as the lines? Any guesses?

#9: REAR END MUST BE REPLACED: I can save this one and store it as the original, but I want a 323 SG newer style for the car. I have yet to unload this car, were these Sure grip or one leggers?

#10: The tranny: Is there a place that specializes in the PUSH BUTTON style of auto 727 for parts, cables, ect? I understand the 727 is the same beast? But the other stuff ???

#11: Rear springs? Has anyone here used the super stock rear springs on their convertible or moves the perches in to accommodate some wider tires. Not super wide just enough to get it to hook up?

#12: 383? I KNOW THEY ARE GREAT MOTORS. I HAD ONE IN A 68 Roadrunner. But I will want it pumped up a bit. And this blue older mopar color is going to take some getting used to. I have this thing about great looking engine bays and cant wait to get things done. I don’t want to stroke the 383 or anything radical, just give it some growl and beef it up a bit. Any suggestions on cam, ect? How are these 63 heads??? Do they typically need some love/ porting, ect? Should I store the 63 heads and opt for some better heads, different year or keep it original?

#13: Who can make my headlight rims perfect? Do you guys typically do this yourself with trim repair hammers, ect? Or send them off to someone??

#14: When restoring your seats, door panels ect for these, who are you using, Legendary interiors?? Or is there a better supplier for the 62-65 cars?

 

[Jim 68cuda]

Glad to hear you decided to stick with the original color. That will be a beautiful 63 vert (a twin to the one I saw at the WPC Club show in Virginia). By the way, I believe there was an old Doris Day movie called "Send Me No Flowers" that featured a 63 Polara convertible (not a 500) in the same color. Its been a long time, but I believe the convertible shows up in two or three scenes in the movie. ( I'll watch any movie if theres a chance of seeing vintage Mopars on screen from the days when the cars were new.)
Looking at the photo of the restored brown convertible, it looks like the painted accent stripe on the side isn't white, but instead kind of a tan color to match the interior trim color.
As for your question about sheet metal shared between the 63 B-body Dodge and the 63 B-body Plymouth, I believe the doors, cowl, rockers and roof were the only exterior parts that were shared by both models. Hoods, trunks, quarters, fenders and valance panels were not shared.

 

[44070dart]

love those 63's

I think that it should buff out real nice ... enjoy.. it looks like a great project and a rag top to boot... nice find.... we need pics when you start

 

[bluefury]

senseable mods......

#1: What is a decent disc brake kit that will do the car justice.

Lots of good conversions out there. Master power comes to mind as one of the better choices. You can also interchange OEM spindle and disc brake systems from later A-B-E body/s. Your booster should be fine but a dual master cyl is a must have.
#2: I’m going to change it to electronic ignition.

#3: How is the standard manifold and carb on this year 383? Any suggestions on upgrades or tricks to make it better.

I always thought the Carter AFB on the early 383's worked great unless you start getting radical with the compression and camshaft. Mopar performance purple cam will warm things up and produce a great sound. Hooker Headers and an TTI stainless exhaust with a cross pipe and Borla mufflers will make ya smile too. That looks like the correct original air filter.
Your heads should be ok for street use. Perhaps upgrade to a pair of 67 915 closed chamber for a bit higher compression
How well do these power steering pumps work and who makes a decent replacement? I tend to use rockauto.com for most newer parts like this.

The original P/S pumps are ok. I never much cared for the power steering on the early B-bodys..... Not enough road feel. But with a good front end and radial tires it will be just fine.
#6: This is a biggie. In looking at the trim that runs the distance, I am guessing it is hard to come by? And HOW DO I GET THIS TRIM OFF? Special trim tool and if so, which one? Any pics? I DONT want to damage this trim.

The trim on your car is held on with a varity of screws, stud/nut, and push clips. Screws at the ends of the long body side moldings.... stud/nut's in the trunk area and some front fender.... most blind areas will have a push in clip. Just be careful and dont force anything.
#7: Convertible top: Who makes a good one for it and did they have glass back windows.

I see tops advertized on eBay often for a couple hundred dollars. I would recommend a good trim shop to custom make a top. Likely cost $600.00-$900.00. Yours seems to be a really good pattern. You might want to refinish the top frame also. White tops usually used white top frames and black tops were finished in black.
Sorry... no glass back windows.... besides.... A real ragtop should have a clear plastic window. NEVER use anything but a soft damp cloth to clean your plastic window.... Mines 25 years old and still clear. If the pump runs then just top off the fluid and cycle it a few times.
were these Sure grip or one leggers?

Sure grip was an option.
#10: The tranny: Is there a place that specializes in the PUSH BUTTON style of auto 727 for parts, cables, ect? I understand the 727 is the same beast? But the other stuff ???

Imperial motors in South Carolina have most items unique to cable shift 727,s.


#13: Who can make my headlight rims perfect? Do you guys typically do this yourself with trim repair hammers, ect? Or send them off to someone??

Check with Kramers, I think someone has reproduced those headlight rings.
Legendary interiors?? Or is there a better supplier for the 62-65 cars?

You just can't beat Legendary....!!!!!

 

[RUMBLON]

#1: What is a decent disc brake kit that will do the car justice.

Lots of good conversions out there. Master power comes to mind as one of the better choices. You can also interchange OEM spindle and disc brake systems from later A-B-E body/s. Your booster should be fine but a dual master cyl is a must have.
#2: I’m going to change it to electronic ignition.

#3: How is the standard manifold and carb on this year 383? Any suggestions on upgrades or tricks to make it better.

I always thought the Carter AFB on the early 383's worked great unless you start getting radical with the compression and camshaft. Mopar performance purple cam will warm things up and produce a great sound. Hooker Headers and an TTI stainless exhaust with a cross pipe and Borla mufflers will make ya smile too. That looks like the correct original air filter.
Your heads should be ok for street use. Perhaps upgrade to a pair of 67 915 closed chamber for a bit higher compression
How well do these power steering pumps work and who makes a decent replacement? I tend to use rockauto.com for most newer parts like this.

The original P/S pumps are ok. I never much cared for the power steering on the early B-bodys..... Not enough road feel. But with a good front end and radial tires it will be just fine.
#6: This is a biggie. In looking at the trim that runs the distance, I am guessing it is hard to come by? And HOW DO I GET THIS TRIM OFF? Special trim tool and if so, which one? Any pics? I DONT want to damage this trim.

The trim on your car is held on with a varity of screws, stud/nut, and push clips. Screws at the ends of the long body side moldings.... stud/nut's in the trunk area and some front fender.... most blind areas will have a push in clip. Just be careful and dont force anything.
#7: Convertible top: Who makes a good one for it and did they have glass back windows.

I see tops advertized on eBay often for a couple hundred dollars. I would recommend a good trim shop to custom make a top. Likely cost $600.00-$900.00. Yours seems to be a really good pattern. You might want to refinish the top frame also. White tops usually used white top frames and black tops were finished in black.
Sorry... no glass back windows.... besides.... A real ragtop should have a clear plastic window. NEVER use anything but a soft damp cloth to clean your plastic window.... Mines 25 years old and still clear. If the pump runs then just top off the fluid and cycle it a few times.
were these Sure grip or one leggers?

Sure grip was an option.
#10: The tranny: Is there a place that specializes in the PUSH BUTTON style of auto 727 for parts, cables, ect? I understand the 727 is the same beast? But the other stuff ???

Imperial motors in South Carolina have most items unique to cable shift 727,s.


#13: Who can make my headlight rims perfect? Do you guys typically do this yourself with trim repair hammers, ect? Or send them off to someone??

Check with Kramers, I think someone has reproduced those headlight rings.
Legendary interiors?? Or is there a better supplier for the 62-65 cars?

You just can't beat Legendary....!!!!!

BLUEFURY, THANKS A TON FOR THE HELP. I am simply going to start collecting parts first, sell off my 70 Belvedere and some other parts I dont need, six pack parts, ect and wait till I have the correct amount of room for the car. I am lucky and have approx 3500 sq ft of shop, but right now there are 7 cars inside and absolutely no room. I HAVE to get my 67 Power wagon running and at least get it so its easy to move. I also have the 70 Belvedere that I am going to sell in a couple of weeks after the title arrives. Its down to bare metal, so it stays inside until sold. Then I have a67 Dart that I need to get done that I HAVE TOTALLY LOST INTEREST IN. 340 4 speed but I wanted a 63 era and just let it sit. So some spring time motivation is in order. Not to mention that I decided to take the Cuda vert gauges out and have to install the new ones and get it off of the rack. So, that said, research and parts collection is in order. I am also trying to spend some cash and get some work done on my future shop in Idaho, 1680 sq ft pole barn where I hope to someday move, so I have toooo many irons in the fire.

In any case I have a project outline and all the information like this REALLY HELPS. If I buy the parts in small does and or trade for stuff as I have done over the years, then It wont be that bad. I have a total, yes total of 14 K into my 70 Cuda vert clone. But that was a 10 year resto and most of the stuff I traded for.

I am no engine builder, but if I am doing a semi stock 383, then I may have to give it a shot and see what I can do with this one.

Keep the advise coming please. When I finally get to it, I will more than likely take a two week vacation off and hit the paint and body and trying and get most done in that time frame.

Does this kit have parts you guys would recommend as a whole or should I go with a more expensive wilwood kit?


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DODG...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories



RUMBLON

 

[bluefury]

Does this kit have parts you guys would recommend as a whole or should I go with a more expensive wilwood kit?

The Wilwood stuff is nice for a full out pro touring, or race car, but overkill for a street cruiser..... Expensive too.

That brake conversion looks like it would do the job. I've had problems with that booster and bracket combo before though. I'm thinking a dual master cylinder mounted to your original booster might be the better choice. You might find a set of spindles in a salvage yard, or e-bay and buy the OEM componants from Rock Auto. A spindle/brake assy from a 67-79 A or B body will bolt on. New rotors, calipers and a master cyl and your good to go. Save all that original stuff though.

You mentioned you had a 67 Power Wagon.... Here is a pic of my 63 W100 Town Wagon. I owned it for 35 years.... Then restored it and sold it.

 

[RUMBLON]

Does this kit have parts you guys would recommend as a whole or should I go with a more expensive wilwood kit?

The Wilwood stuff is nice for a full out pro touring, or race car, but overkill for a street cruiser..... Expensive too.

That brake conversion looks like it would do the job. I've had problems with that booster and bracket combo before though. I'm thinking a dual master cylinder mounted to your original booster might be the better choice. You might find a set of spindles in a salvage yard, or e-bay and buy the OEM componants from Rock Auto. A spindle/brake assy from a 67-79 A or B body will bolt on. New rotors, calipers and a master cyl and your good to go. Save all that original stuff though.

You mentioned you had a 67 Power Wagon.... Here is a pic of my 63 W100 Town Wagon. I owned it for 35 years.... Then restored it and sold it.

Nice rig there. Too bad you sold it. Mine is a 67 W100/ short wide 8 lug. Little 318 and I changed the color from yellow to white over Q5 turquoise metallic, the same color as my 67 Dart. The 67 was hit in the nose, so I used a parts truck/ 63 and am still building it.

I did some mods. removed the fuel tank and filler tube from the door area and tank behind the seat. I used a ramcharger tank and 70 Challenger flip top sheet metal and gas cap and now it loads from the side.

RUMBLON

 

[bluefury]

I did some mods. removed the fuel tank and filler tube from the door area and tank behind the seat. I used a ramcharger tank and 70 Challenger flip top sheet metal and gas cap and now it loads from the side.

Nice power wagon. I like the early front and the round tail lights. And the fuel tank and filler are a nice touch. After restoring the Town Wagon I was afraid to use it any more. I kind of went overboard on it. I also have a 64 Crewcab which is more of a nice driver, so the Town Wagon went and was replaced with a 65 Coronet 500.

Do you visit the sweptside site....? Lots of good folks there who enjoy the 61-71 Sweptsides. Heres a link.....


http://www.sweptline.org/forums/

Heres a pic of my crewcab...... I'm the second owner

 

[RUMBLON]

I did some mods. removed the fuel tank and filler tube from the door area and tank behind the seat. I used a ramcharger tank and 70 Challenger flip top sheet metal and gas cap and now it loads from the side.

Nice power wagon. I like the early front and the round tail lights. And the fuel tank and filler are a nice touch. After restoring the Town Wagon I was afraid to use it any more. I kind of went overboard on it. I also have a 64 Crewcab which is more of a nice driver, so the Town Wagon went and was replaced with a 65 Coronet 500.

Do you visit the sweptside site....? Lots of good folks there who enjoy the 61-71 Sweptsides. Heres a link.....


http://www.sweptline.org/forums/

Heres a pic of my crewcab...... I'm the second owner

Will nice truck, I have a 71 318 long bed 4 speed and a 68 UTELINE beat up but its a builder and a shortbed, which is what I like the most. I recently sold a 70 crewcab that I was thinking of putting onto a 97 diesel truck.

Thanks for the PM regarding buildsheets. You may enjoy this paperwork!!!

Dave

 

[RUMBLON]

And right after I took this pic I placed them all into a plastic sheet protector. They are in my safe.
Also I have been on sweptline for years as well.

here are my other two trucks. nothing nice but they do run.

And the 68 uteline is beat up but I have some new parts for it.

The 69 long bed, I just bought a few weeks back runs and drives for $100.00.

I recently sold a 71 383 truck to a sweptline.org member in so-cal.

Dave

 

[RUMBLON]

WHERE CAN i FIND OUT HOW MANY OF THESE CARS WERE MADE?

Thanks
RUMBLON

 

[crossram 426]

I don't know if the models were cut down to how many of each were made, only to say that on my Govier report he says

37,697 1963 Dodge Polaras were made for the USA.......

Headlight rims are repopped by special T's. Can download their catalogue from this page.

http://special-ts.tripod.com/