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Need advice on cold air kits for 440 in tight engine compartment

sputnik 440

Capt Jim
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Location
Norfork, AR
I would like to get some cold air going into a 440 in a '67Satellite with headers. There is very little room to work with in the engine compartment. Two problems....I have a drop down Mopar air filter housing on a 4150 850cfm Holly that will only take a 2" filter. I may have an additional clearance between it and the hood of 1" at the most. Second problem is I cannot find a place next to the radiator that I can put the intake hose. Has anyone ever brought the cold air up from the area under the radiator but closer to the fenders? Is this practical?

Any other ideas on how to get this engine running on some cooler air?
 
Well my result was a fiberglass hood with an oversized scoop. Not cheap but does the job. I have a K & N drop down air cleaner, Victor manifold, & the cleaner sits at the hood line.
 
I would like to get some cold air going into a 440 in a '67Satellite with headers. There is very little room to work with in the engine compartment. Two problems....I have a drop down Mopar air filter housing on a 4150 850cfm Holly that will only take a 2" filter. I may have an additional clearance between it and the hood of 1" at the most. Second problem is I cannot find a place next to the radiator that I can put the intake hose. Has anyone ever brought the cold air up from the area under the radiator but closer to the fenders? Is this practical?

Any other ideas on how to get this engine running on some cooler air?

Sure, why not? Fab it up with inexpensive Home Depot materials to try it out. If you're happy with the results re-do it to make it pretty... Fuel, not air. but you can get the idea...

DSCN4075.JPG DSCN4078.JPG
 
Hi, if a hood scoop is out of the question, this would solve all your cold air induction dilemma and 2" filter issue.I feel your pain ,I to have thought about doing this.
if you move the horn relay,horn ... you have the passenger side would be easy.For the driver side, relocate the battery to the trunk, easy, good for traction. this low profile housing(less filters) then run your dyer hoses to both sides of the rad , found this pic on the net believe the housing is spectre. good luck
70-dodge-charger-383-750-holley-4bbl-with-dual-plenum-cold-air-intakeedlebrook-6.JPG
 
Well my result was a fiberglass hood with an oversized scoop. Not cheap but does the job. I have a K & N drop down air cleaner, Victor manifold, & the cleaner sits at the hood line.
I have an extra hood that I thought about doing that to, but I can't get myself to take off the existing hood with the candy root beer paint job and replace it with a flat black one. I think I will do the Home Depot approach and rig something up to see if the cold air will show a difference before I go changing the appearance.
 
Sure, why not? Fab it up with inexpensive Home Depot materials to try it out. If you're happy with the results re-do it to make it pretty... Fuel, not air. but you can get the idea...

View attachment 353553 View attachment 353554
Beautiful power plant!! I think I will take your advise and make a trip to Home Depot and try something out before I go to the expense of changing so much around. Thanks for the thought.
 
Hi, if a hood scoop is out of the question, this would solve all your cold air induction dilemma and 2" filter issue.I feel your pain ,I to have thought about doing this.
if you move the horn relay,horn ... you have the passenger side would be easy.For the driver side, relocate the battery to the trunk, easy, good for traction. this low profile housing(less filters) then run your dyer hoses to both sides of the rad , found this pic on the net believe the housing is spectre. good luck
70-dodge-charger-383-750-holley-4bbl-with-dual-plenum-cold-air-intakeedlebrook-6.JPG
I like the approach to filtering in the photo, but then I am left with the same dilemma, sucking hot air. I believe you are correct.......move the horns and the battery in order to funnel the cold air to the canister. Not real happy about moving the battery, but it may be the only way to do it right.

Question remains, will the cold air make a noticeable difference in performance? I would have to think it would, but I have been told it won't by some mechanics.
 
Now that is creative. Lionized, any idea who did this and what it was formed out of? I went ahead and moved the Battery to the trunk to open up the driver side of the compartment. I moved the electronic ignition box back toward the middle of the bulkhead on the passenger side. I meticulously measured for the 4" pipe to run to the area where the horns are. I did not take into account the diameter of the friggin cone filters and now I have interference with the ignition box, when mounted as planned. So today I will have to relocate the box again, if I can find a proper place. The concern I have is the effects of heat from the headers as move the box closer to them. I may have to move the wash bottle over to the driver side and put the box where it is. I'll post photos when it is done.
 
Now that is creative. Lionized, any idea who did this and what it was formed out of? I went ahead and moved the Battery to the trunk to open up the driver side of the compartment. I moved the electronic ignition box back toward the middle of the bulkhead on the passenger side. I meticulously measured for the 4" pipe to run to the area where the horns are. I did not take into account the diameter of the friggin cone filters and now I have interference with the ignition box, when mounted as planned. So today I will have to relocate the box again, if I can find a proper place. The concern I have is the effects of heat from the headers as move the box closer to them. I may have to move the wash bottle over to the driver side and put the box where it is. I'll post photos when it is done.
Factory Olds in 1968-69. Not sure if you're going to have room for the dryer duct but it'd be awesome if you did!

https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hmn/2010/10/Oldsmobile-s-W-31-350/3691091.html
 
Question remains, will the cold air make a noticeable difference in performance? I would have to think it would, but I have been told it won't by some mechanics.

I have a 1970 Air Grabber Road Runner. I added fuel injection to it so I get a temperature reading on the incoming air. Driving to Carlisle last year with the scoop closed the temperature was running 121 degrees - when I opened the Air Grabber it dropped to 94 degrees. That temperature difference HAS to help get cooler, more dense air in, I would think. What it actually does to engine power I can't tell you...
 
Roughly 1% power increase for a 10 degree (f) temperature drop is the formula I'm used to seeing.
 
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