Need some assistance from electrical gurus..

[vin_vl29u]

When you hear an old mopar crank, start then die after letting go of the key, it's usually the ballast resistor. Since it is bypassed when cranking. So check the resistor or the wiring for it.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

Classic ballast resistor symptom.

 

[ZombiePopper]

As always, thanks!
Well, I'll swap out the ballast tomm and go from there...
anyone else ever get the feeling your old mopar is messing with you? Lol

 

[bigblock]

Mine used to mess with me,but I did away with all the nonsense. No it will run, or a genius will have to diagnose and fix it.

 

[67 B-body]

Beacause the switch is junk thats why. Seen it many times, my car just last summer.

Good to hear you got your lights working zoombie.

Yep,,, you knew it was bad.... And it had to be grounded too because you said so..... Boy your smart!
BTW my remark was to have him TEST the thing before being a brilliant parts changer like you apparently...

 

[ZombiePopper]

Welp,
went to unplug the terminals from my ballast and noticed 1 post was pretty corroded and rusty, so I took some sand paper and cleaned it up applied dielectric grease and plugged her back in, she fired up like normal, thanks a bunch guys

 

[Gpuller]

Yep,,, you knew it was bad.... And it had to be grounded too because you said so..... Boy your smart!
BTW my remark was to have him TEST the thing before being a brilliant parts changer like you apparently...

Zoombie had a spare switch, take longer to test than swap out the spare. But what do I know, I'm just a parts a parts chaser.

 

[67 B-body]

Zoombie had a spare switch, take longer to test than swap out the spare. But what do I know, I'm just a parts a parts chaser.

Probably had a spare light bulb and a roll of wire,,,, could have thrown that at it too...

My point is this.....
Testing components is a MUCH better way to diagnose troubles in electrical circuits.... Sure you can start throwing parts at things,,,, but where do you start if you test nothing??? All he knew is things didn't work....
He also asked for Electrical GURUS to help diagnose an issue.... The correct way to do that is to understand an electrical circuit and begin testing a few things...."That's why I provided a detail of how the wiring works and things to check". He could have just thrown parts at it all on his own without asking for the help!!!

And BTW, it would have most certainly taken longer to remove and replace a dimmer switch than sticking a 12v test light on the damn thing,,, so there is another reason to TEST stuff out...

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

I'm glad I went all modern no ballast, volt reg and a good old one wire alt.

Glad you got it fixed I am finding most 44+ year old Chrysler parts just need a good cleaning too. isn't that cool that something that old was made so well?

 

[ZombiePopper]

It is pretty cool that all it took was a little terminal cleaning to get her running again, I've thought VERY seriously about going to an HEI set-up (still might) BUT,
I have a spare 440 (early-mid 70's) that has the entire electronic ignition (dizzy, ECU, 4 post ballast, harness, alt, etc.) that I'm planning on swapping over to my 67 as well but wanted to fix the little wire gremlins BEFORE, I started swapping stuff out, so I don't complicate things. (With My luck I'd end up chasing my tail lol)

when I put my test light on the output side of my dimmer switch I couldn't get anything (highs or lows) so I went ahead and swapped it out.
I will say, the drivers side low bulb is really dim (the other 3 bulbs are nice and bright (for an old car anyway)) so I'm probably going to swap it out also.

I sure do appreciate everyone's help/assistance/input, that's what makes this such a great site, all the knowledgable fellow mopar fans.

 

[SPEEDYRT1]

hey ; turn key on pull the start wire from starter relay , @ jump it with screwdriver , should fire up @ stay running , if not run jumper wire from bat to the hot side of coil try again should stay running